Saturday, January 19, 2013

Frosty to Toasty in One Week

Back in December, before leaving our house for the last time, I checked the Ensenada weather and grabbed my Emilia Beanie* just in case. Good gosh darn thing as the temperature plummeted to 39 degrees f. last Saturday night. Brrrrr! We went to the sports bar La Taberna to watch the 'Niners beat Green Bay, the only problem being that the whole front of the bar is open to the elements. At Tom's request the chef whipped up some extra-spicy green salsa to help keep our blood warm. Our waiter "Buki" said he used three types of chiles, a little onion, a bit of vinegar, lime juice and olive oil.
Saved by my stylish knitted cap and spicy salsa.
Luckily, the next day things started warming up.

In the past week we have discovered:
1) Ensenada doesn't shut down on Sundays after all. Sunny days = lots of families on the malecon and downtown. I strolled through town last Sunday and saw people trying to make a few quick pesos by playing music, dancing, juggling, hawking wares, and I even saw a guy doing one-armed handstands in the crosswalk until a policeman made him stop.
2) La Riviera de Ensenada - used to be a deluxe resort and casino during prohibition and Hollywood's heyday, then it went into ruin, then was refurbished and is now a social and cultural center. I met a nice woman and her two daughters who were practicing their inline skating. They invited me to meet them there next weekend; who knows, maybe I will.
La Riviera del Pacifico today

Josie and her hijas
3) The movie theatre only a couple of blocks away which costs about $3.50 per ticket. Most movies are in English with Spanish subtitles. Popcorn comes in regular, caramel, and enchiladas (spicy). Tom puts the ticket girls into fits of giggles when he tries to get us a senior discount (no such thing).
4) Antojitos Mexicanos Maribel for terrific breakfasts and lunch. Tom discovered machaca (dried beef in a tasty melange with vegetables and sometimes eggs) and I had one of the best chili rellenos I've ever had. Maribel's soups (caldo de res y caldo de pollo) looked amazing so we'll have to try one of those next time. They also make fresh fruit juices. We were the only gringos in a place packed with locals; a good sign.
Maribel stirs her caldo de res (beef stew)
5) The world famous La Guerrerense taco cart. Tom had tuna ceviche and shrimp ceviche tostadas. I was brave and tried the award-winning sea snail tostada, delicious! Kind of like abalone but tastier.

Sea snal tostada coming up!
I also ordered a fresh raw pismo clam, cleaned, sliced and in the shell. One half was like a clam cocktail with avocado and the other half was simply in lime and salsa. I told the owner I was afraid to try the erizo (sea urchin) tostada. A few minutes later she brought over a small piece of tostada layered with the warm, briny sea urchin, slices of raw clam and topped with avocado. It was heavenly! She has a plethora of homemade salsas, my favorite being one of whole peanuts and "chilis from the garden".  I put some VERY HOT cucumber salsa on my clam, stupid of me since it was clearly labeled Pepino Endiablado (Devilish, but I prefer to say, Hellified Cucumber) . When one of her sons saw us suffering from the heat he quickly made us a piece of tostada with creamy crab salad on it to cool off our mouths. Phew!
5) Local buses - after a slightly shaky start we are now experts on getting to the big box stores via bus, only 10 pesos. Nothing will keep the Ensenada buses from their schedule; I even saw one continuing its route with a flat tire, although more slowly than normal.
6) The Mercado Negro, Ensenada's famous fish market.
Like my big squid?
Since we're on the hard we have no refrigeration. Such a pity when we are so close to all that fresh seafood. But I did get some smoked marlin (2# for $6.50!) which should be OK for a week or so staying cool on ice.


Boat work last week included, but was not limited to, Tom retrieving our non-functioning anomometer (wind gauge) from the top of the mast (80' in the air!), me starting to service all the winches, and the yard beginning the grand masking and swaddling in plastic to prepare Cinnabar for her first coat of primer.

Tom, you look tiny up there.
More pictures of Week 2 can be found here in our Picasa gallery.

*Beanie made by Emilia.


  1. Sounds fantastic! I love the photos. I'm impressed with your ability to get so much boat work done with all those distractions!

  2. Yay, I'm famous! Glad the beanie came in handy. Ensenada looks like such a wonderful town and you appear to be enjoying all of it. Go Sylvia!