Road Trip La Paz to the Santa Rosalia Ferry, or Will We Have to Think of a Plan C?

In Loreto, wondering if we'll catch the ferry.

To Review:

Plan A - Take the Santa Rosalia Ferry to Guaymas on Friday. Nope - Friday Ferry canceled due to bad conditions in the Sea of Cortez.

Plan B - Try to make it onto the Sunday morning ferry in Santa Rosalia.


Since we were "stuck" in Loreto for a couple of nights we decided to make the most of it by getting a hotel room and visiting the nearby historic town of San Javier the next day. As luck would have it that weekend was Carnaval so a lot of people were in town, 65 planes from the Baja Bush Pilots had just arrived, and there was a huge biker convention going on. In short, Loreto was packed and it seemed there was no room at the inns.

After checking numerous hotels we finally found a stately old hotel on the edge of town that had just re-opened and they had one room available for one night only. We took it and figured we would deal with tomorrow night's lodging later.

A nice view from our hotel room. Note the wind howling through the palm trees.

The next day as we were leaving for San Javier, just about two blocks from our hotel we drove by a colorful sign that cheerfully advertised "RV Park - Tents Welcome!" We drove in and found an immaculately clean little RV park with plenty of room.

Can't beat it for $8 a night!

Our little corner.

We set up our campsite and headed out for San Javier, located high in the mountains about 25 miles from Loreto.

We had to cross numerous streams flowing across the road to get to our destination.

A tail-gate lunch with one of the locals.

Mission San Javier was founded in 1699 by the Jesuit Priests. It was a good location due to the presence of rivers and natural springs. 





Also, the friendly local Cochimi indians were willing to be baptized and to assist in building aqueducts, dams, stone walls and buildings, many of which exist today. 

Water flowing to nearby crops of citrus, dates and olives.

Their reward for helping the Jesuits? Extinction due to disease.

Today the mission exists in a town of 216 inhabitants and, now a functioning church, it is considered to be a jewel among Baja's missions. Its original windows are the first pieces of glass (brought overland by donkey) to be imported into Baja. Some of the stone baptismal fonts are also originals from 1699.

Tom, do NOT touch that bell rope!

A steep drive back down to Loreto from the Sierra de la Giganta mountains.

After spending a thoroughly enjoyable day in San Javier we returned to Loreto for dinner and walked over to the malecon to see the sights of Carnaval.

The next day we drove up to Santa Rosalia, wondering if the ferry would be in our future. At the ferry office there was a big sign posted in the window telling us that the delayed ferry would depart at 9:00 a.m. the next day and that all passengers should be there at 7:00 with their tickets in hand. What? We didn't have tickets! 

We found a hotel and when we told the concierge we were hoping to take the ferry to Guaymas he advised us to be at the ticket office no later than 6:30 a.m.

We arrived early the next a.m. and were the second vehicle in the car line. I was the first in line at the ticket office. 

The office didn't open until 8:00 and as I stood in place guarding my spot it became apparent that nobody else had tickets either. The line grew and Mexicans and Gringos alike shuffled around nervously hoping to get tickets. Finally the ticket agent arrived. Her first words to me were "Do you have a reservation?" Luckily, because Tom had made reservations over the phone I purchased our tickets with no drama. Whew!

We met Eric and Shelley from Baja Bush Pilots who were right behind me in line.

After the cars were inspected by the Mexican Navy and their sniffer dogs we were able to drive the tundra onto the ferry. We finally breathed sighs of relief, we were actually going to Guaymas!

The vehicle hold of the ferry could contain two large semis (which rolled off the ferry when it arrived) or about twelve passenger cars. 

El Capitan was a hoot, first he told me he was the ticket agent, then he told me he was the parking attendant, then he finally admitted he was the ferry captain.

Departing Santa Rosalia

It was a glorious day and all fears of nasty weather floated away on the light breeze. For the next 9 hours we enjoyed a calm and pleasant trip across the sea. Tom napped and I sat outside the entire way, reading a book, talking to other passengers, and appreciating the perfect conditions.

An after-dark arrival in Guaymas

We spent the next few days day in San Carlos at Kitty and Joe's adorable condo. 

Yet another great view! Sunrise at the condo.

Joe and Tom start the day with Yoga.

Tom and Joe ride bicycles to the boat yard.

It was fun to reconnect with old friends and we were able to help out a bit as they worked hard to get their boat TELITHA back in order after she had been bashed about in one of last year's hurricanes. During Hurricane Newton two other boats in the yard fell into TELITHA and caused her to be dismasted.

Kitty and Joe prep the new mast. Hopefully it will be installed the next day.

Our reward after a day at the boatyard, drinks on the beach.

This is as close as Tom got to kiting in San Carlos. Maybe next time.

The next day we were able to see TELITHA get her new mast which was a happy day for all.

The mast is "stepped", i.e. successfully installed. TELITHA looks like a boat again!

Kitty, Sylvia and Toni (ALI'I KAI), TELITHA and her new mast in the background.

We could have spent a lot more time in the agreeable town of San Carlos but it was now March and we had to return home. 

Crossing the border into Lukeville, Arizona

Camping on BLM land just north of the border. Yes, we could get data from Verizon!

Back in California!

Tom bonds with a Joshua Tree.

We only had a few days back in the SF Bay Area to wrap up business and prepare for 1) our flight back to La Paz, and 2) our upcoming sail from La Paz to French Polynesia aboard the good ship SHINDIG.

Lots more pics here - ALBUM: La Paz to California


The adventure continues. For the next few weeks it will be aboard s/v SHINDIG. Stay tuned...