Tahanea to Fakarava - Some Challenging Pass Negotiations

(Sylvia)


As we mentioned in a previous post, timing our entries into the passes of any of the Tuamotu is critical for a safe entry. If the winds are too strong and blowing against the current in the pass it will create standing waves making for a dangerous entry. They say it's best to enter or leave during slack water (no or little current) and in good light so as to keep an eye out for coral bommies.

After spending a little over 2 weeks in Tahanea we were ready to leave for the Fakarava atoll where there is supposedly excellent kiting and diving to be found. There are two passes into Fakarava, the safe and big north pass, and the extremely shallow and treacherous south pass. The north pass was another 25 nm (nautical miles) farther out of our way, so guess which pass Tom insisted we enter? Bear in mind that Cinnabar has a very deep draft of 9.5 feet.

In order to arrive at the Fakarava south pass at the ideal time of low slack (hopefully with a slight ebb that would help push us back in case we decided to abort the entry) we would have to depart the Tahanea pass at 8:30 p.m. After sunset. In the pitch dark! We decided that this would probably be OK as long as we could follow our own snail trail (GPS track of our previous entry into the atoll). Also, buddy sailboat NAOMA with a shallower draft agreed to precede us and sound the depths ahead.

Ah, the optimism of youth. Nicole and Ryan of NAOMA confer with us about our pass departure that night. All systems go!

So at 8:15 p.m. (20:15) NAOMA and CINNABAR weighed anchor and headed for the pass. We were using three navigational programs to make sure we were on our previous track. Although I had been gung-ho earlier, I became a Nervous Nellie in the pitch dark (no moon) and constantly nagged Tom to check our course on his device, comparing it with the one I was using. Since I was staring at my lit screen I had zero night vision but at least Tom was able to see the dark outline of the land on each side of us. We successfully followed our previous track out of the pass even though it felt like driving through a minefield of potential groundings. Once safely in the ocean, we set sail for Fakarava. We had a slow, mellow and uneventful motorsail throughout the night, always keeping NAOMA'S mast light in our sights.

We arrived at Fakarava about 06:45 the following a.m. where NAOMA was waiting outside the pass. Our wished-for sunny morning was not to be, with gray clouds and thunderheads scudding across the sky. When it got a bit lighter and the current flattened somewhat we decided to make our move. 

Cinnabar slow sailing, waiting to enter the dreaded Fakarava south pass. Photo courtesy of NAOMA

NAOMA agreed to go first and sound the depth for us. They reported that there was about a 1.5 knot current against them (good) but that they saw 8.5 feet in the shallowest spot. Yikes! Tom's navigational program showed a narrow channel that was about 10.5 feet at low tide so we slowly motored through this area watching the depth constantly. 20 feet. 15 feet. 10 feet. 9 feet, what? 6 feet WTF??? We should be smashing into the coral bottom right now.

GAH! Coral right next to and underneath us.

When the instruments read 3.2, Tom realized something was seriously amiss - then he saw that I had accidentally set the depth to meters instead of the usual feet units. I thought he was going to have a heart attack! 3.2 meters equals 10.5 feet, so actually, we had 1 foot of clearance under the keel. Hey, inches to spare, no big deal.

Worried Tom with his phone nav app in hand. NOT happy about the depth being in meters.

All the while we could very clearly see the bottom just below us, it didn't even matter that the sky was dark and gray. By the skin of our bottom paint, we safely transited the pass (whew!).

Cinnabar's track reaching in front of, then transiting north through the pass. Big thanks to NAOMA for leading us through.

Following NAOMA, we headed to the SE for the anchorage of Hirifa which was known as the place for windsurfing and kiting.

It was the 4th of July and it was a squally and rainy day. 

Happy Fourth of July! Now, don't EVER set the depth to meters again!!!!

Weather be damned, the yanks in the anchorage, CINNABAR, NAOMA AND MALUHIA, celebrated with an impromptu 4th of July party aboard roomy MALUHIA that included appetizers, grilled sausages, baked beans, veggie burgers, and ice cream sundaes. 

Beautiful catamaran MALUHIA in the background. NAOMA on the right. Fear-sweat soaked clothes getting a natural rain rinse on CINNABAR.

The next few days were spent doing boat chores, kiting, beach-walking, and enjoying the hospitality of a fun beach-shack restaurant on shore.

We visit the local watering hole for dinner. Counter clockwise - Ryan (NAOMA) front right, Tom, Sylvia, Dave (MALUHIA), Jan/Bernard/Anne-Marie (L'AVENIR, Austrians), and Nicole (NAOMA) Photo courtesy of NAOMA

More later on our journeys throughout Fakarava, the second largest atoll in The Tuamotu. Although we have some internet here, it's not enough to upload an album, so that will be forthcoming as well. Also, when Tom has time he'll post some really fun kiting pics.

Sylvia
Pakokota, Fakarava