Our first 3 weeks in Concepcion were all about friends and
family visiting from north of the border. Things got a little lonely after Mati
left, then our hostess Stephanie also had to leave for a week, then with Sonja and
Erik leaving it felt like our "family" was doomed to shrink and things might
become gloomy.
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No worries...new Eagle Scout Kelston kept things exciting by shooting this rare big game Roosterfish. They are known as huge fighters. Nice job! |
Luckily our cruiser friends Kitty and Joe aboard the sailing
vessel (sv) Telitha would soon arrive to liven things up. Kitty and Joe are from Taos, NM and have been coming down to the Sea of Cortez every year for the past 12 years or so.
We met Kitty and Joe from sv Telitha in this very bay last
year, had a stupendous time hanging out with them and sv Iolanthe last year,
and they even came to visit us in San Francisco last summer, pictures HERE.
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Joe, Tom, Sylvia and Kitty watch the America's Cup/Louis Vuitton cup and bicycle from SF to Tiburon |
The day that Tom and I drove Sonja and Erik to the airport, Mike
and the kids went for a dive, got some more fish and scallops...
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Savanah and scallops |
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Kelston cleans the scallops |
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Mike and Dogtooth Snapper - Can you see why we ate so well? |
...and the kids even used up their tanks cleaning Cinnabar’s bottom! Hooray for Kelston and Savanah!
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Bottom cleaning crew reporting for duty! |
We had been expecting Telitha, so I kept a pair of
binoculars handy. That afternoon Kitty and Joe sailed into the bay and
dropped anchor in time for dinner. They were blown away by the selection of
fresh seafood and immediately hit it off with Mike, Kelston and Savanah.
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Lots of fish prepared lots of ways (Kelston, Tom, Savanah, Sylvia, Joe, Kitty) |
But would they pass the famous (or infamous) McGuire tests? The next morning we
all piled into Mike’s panga to see if Kitty and Joe were Jump-Off Rock worthy.
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Kitty goes first! |
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Then Joe! |
No problem with jumping off rocks! So were they part of the McGuire clan? Well…almost. The
ULTIMATE test would come the morning Mike zoomed over to Telitha in his panga, dragging
a SUP, and challenging K&J to a morning “surf” tow. Minutes later Kitty and
Joe were zooming around Cinnabar performing all kinds of stunts for their
adoring spectators. Talk about hams!!
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Kitty and Joe - both up for the challenge |
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These guys are good! |
In addition to jumping, snorkeling, and surf towing, we also enjoyed
a night at JC’s restaurant at Burro Cove where Savanah and Kitty took a supply of
clothespins and “pinned” numerous unsuspecting victims at the restaurant.
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Savanah gives us our tutorial |
That night we had a surprise when we ran into cruisers Leif
and Lisa of sv Finisterra. We met them in 2011 while racing aboard Tivoli in
the Banderas Bay Regatta. Imagine our shock to re-meet these fun folks 3 years
later in a completely different location.
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What a surprise to run into Leif and Lisa after 3 years. |
In the next day or so we would also connect with our friends
Ben and Lucie from sv Georgia, whom we know quite well from
the SF Bay Area, and Dave and Merry from sv AirOps, whom we met in the
Sea of Cortez last year.
Week #5 promised to be extremely interesting as Mike had
booked a spearfishing charter with 5 bomberos* (*Spanish for firemen)/spearfishers, aka The Spearos
(well, 4 bomberos and 1 bean counter with cojones) from the US (Sacramento and
SF Bay Area) who were coming to perfect their blue water free-diving and spearfishing
techniques.
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Phil, Mike Curtis, Will and Ethan |
Tom and Mike’s son Kelston would assist with guiding the dives, and Stephanie, Savanah and I would be the chefs with Joe and Kitty providing backup. Luckily the Spearos were VERY competent
and comfortable in the water,
which made the spearfishing days fun for guides Mike, Kelston and Tom.
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Guides Kelston and Tom (left) with The Spearos and Captain Mike (right) |
The week was jam-packed with the guys leaving in the early
a.m. to drive out to the fishing pangas, diving their brains out all day in both Victory at Sea and Lake Placid conditions, then
coming home to clean their fish and gear before dinner.
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Trip leader Will demonstrates that hunters eat EVERYTHING they shoot.
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Phil and Ethan with dinner! |
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Looks like Mike will be taking home some fish |
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Curtis shot this monster 48# amberjack on the last day |
Meanwhile the kitchen crew did our
best to cook up a variety of tasty seafood dishes.
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Pasilla Pepper Princesses Sylvia and Stephanie |
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Tataki Tutoresses Kitty and Savanah |
That week we prepared wahoo, cabrilla, yellowtail,
snapper, pargo, grouper, roosterfish, rainbow runner, amberjack, clams, scallops,
cockles, octopus, and lobster. We steamed seafood, boiled seafood, served
sashimi, sushi, tataki (where Savanah
almost caught fire!), tiradito and crudo, ceviche, Hawaiian poke, on the
half-shell, seafood stew, marinated and grilled fish, salted and grilled fish, al
mojo de ajo (lots of garlic), fish cheeks, fish teriyaki, ranchero-style, fish
tacos, grilled fish on pasta, pibil-style,
and Chilaquiles!
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Breakfast is served!
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And that’s not even counting Stephanie’s amazing smoothies and desserts such as banana bars, chocolate decadence, strawberry-balsamic cheesecake, chocolate chip bars, puddings and fresh fruit. Whew!!
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Galley staff loving their work. Literally. |
The utter irony of the Spearos trip, however, is that they came down to shoot yellowtail, and the entire week they were here the guys didn't even SEE one yellowtail. Hey Spearos, were you making those heinous faces underwater? Is that what scared off the yellowtail?
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Tom surprises the guys with local microbrewed beer. Note that Kelston is not excited. |
As we approached the end of week #5 it seemed that everyone
(except Tom and I) was busy making their preparations for departure. On Friday May 2nd Tom and I drove
the Spearos to Loreto with all their fish frozen and packed on ice for the trip
home. When we got back to Concepcion
both Telitha and Finisterra had left the bay. That afternoon as we helped the McGuires
pack up their beach toys Georgia raised
her anchor and also sailed out of the bay, planning an overnight crossing to
San Carlos on the Mexican mainland. We had a final dinner with the McGuires at
Armando’s restaurant in Santispac, and very early the next morning they left
for their long drive back to the states.
Things were a little lonely for the next couple of days, but
on Sunday we discovered that someone left a bag of lobster tails, so at least
we had a great lobster dinner (2 in fact) to console ourselves.
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Classic retro meal of steamed lobster with garlic butter and wedge salad with avocado green goddess dressing. |
(Our noses also
discovered that one of the Spearos had left a single pack of fish in an unplugged
freezer…pew!!)
At night we have been enjoying the vast sky filled with
stars, waiting for the satellites and space station to cross the sky, and enjoying
the occasional satellite flare. Early Tuesday morning I rose at 4:00 a.m.,
looked outside, and was treated to a meteor shower. Stars were shooting in the
sky, and the bio-luminescence was sparkling in the sea from the numerous fish
swimming under our boat. Both sky and water were equally brilliant, a magic
moment indeed!
What’s next? I guess we wait for a suitable weather window
and then start our journey back south, final destination La Paz where Cinnabar
will live for the summer. At the moment
we are “recovering” from our non-stop excitement visit with Los McGuire, marveling at the million dollar view from their VRBO Casa de los Suenos, and
counting ourselves extremely fortunate indeed to be blessed with such wonderful
friends who generously share their home in one of the most beautiful places on
earth.
More pictures of weeks #4 and #5 can be found HERE.
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