tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41803957775689144712024-02-06T18:19:09.751-08:00CinnabarbariansThe sailing vessel Cinnabar is a custom Schumacher 52' sloop, designed by the late Carl Schumacher and built by Ian Franklin Boat Builders in Waikawa Bay, New Zealand. She was commissioned by her original owners and launched in 2002. She sailed into our lives in 2007.Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.comBlogger170125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-81976942342902830502022-10-06T23:24:00.001-07:002022-10-07T00:33:58.912-07:00Voyage of CINNABAR - New Zealand to Fiji<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">Sylvia</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Oct 2022</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">We have been in Fiji for a month and a synopsis of our recent voyage is long overdue:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">We were incredibly fortunate to be "marooned" in New Zealand during the worldwide COVID pandemic since December 2019. Immigration had extended our visas numerous times but when the South Pacific cyclone season ended in May 2022, the foreign yachties were informed that our time was up and we must leave the country. After all that time being landlubbers it was a challenging push to get Cinnabar, and mostly ourselves, ready to sail the ~1300 nm from New Zealand to Fiji. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A few months before we departed, we were introduced to a local sailor who had never done an ocean passage before but was keen for the experience. We met him, liked him and decided that Nathan would be our #3. We waited, and waited, worked on the boat with Nathan's help, and waited some more for a good weather window. Finally, at the end of August, it looked like some good passage weather might be coming up. At the last minute our close friend Ian said he was also interested in the passage. He is an experienced off-shore sailor and has done the voyage before so we said "Heck yeah!!" and added a #4. These guys would prove invaluable to our successful journey.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPTQq-0skQEYeuND5B8G6oHIvuiJDDKjcjCRoARyWP11FIU6uhifvd7KCvAikxgptGhjZygbxkOrAJxrWVUDEudy7HWd_g53pIo9LK_G8U7vm3PHqgXGv5seeNH3rnZxI0Tp2SxIrhNW7ra8G-HkydmZMLY16PbsOC0P1dpWbhbl85p04Zm_sH8k7ng/s1600/signal-2022-08-26-13-05-47-219-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPTQq-0skQEYeuND5B8G6oHIvuiJDDKjcjCRoARyWP11FIU6uhifvd7KCvAikxgptGhjZygbxkOrAJxrWVUDEudy7HWd_g53pIo9LK_G8U7vm3PHqgXGv5seeNH3rnZxI0Tp2SxIrhNW7ra8G-HkydmZMLY16PbsOC0P1dpWbhbl85p04Zm_sH8k7ng/w480-h640/signal-2022-08-26-13-05-47-219-1.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">On August 26 our marina neighbors helped us cast off. Even though they had to get up ridiculously early they wanted to say goodbye. And possibly they couldn't quite believe we were actually leaving.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">We left the dock of Riverside Drive Marina, our home away from home, very early in the morning so as to go under the iconic Te Matau a Pohe drawbridge (shaped like a fish hook) at high tide and before it closed for morning traffic at 7:00 a.m. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="910" height="469" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGDWByJu_YYxqrcznlUbuGQCvVpmiC5Max2xnVDyAc3VEtE63lDSyP1MWFyo9UWNUhz87JjipHfedq5hB5O6d5XGKRgNaveAOo5uqgrK-MwNkLi7coTzBSAuJPbzJgE8KyWx1nc24VxuFDJ4bBUPZOuNMoCNkOxvWLSl0TqEknIprsUowpQQQoS0fhA/w640-h469/20220826_063449%20(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the drawbridge behind us.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGDWByJu_YYxqrcznlUbuGQCvVpmiC5Max2xnVDyAc3VEtE63lDSyP1MWFyo9UWNUhz87JjipHfedq5hB5O6d5XGKRgNaveAOo5uqgrK-MwNkLi7coTzBSAuJPbzJgE8KyWx1nc24VxuFDJ4bBUPZOuNMoCNkOxvWLSl0TqEknIprsUowpQQQoS0fhA/s910/20220826_063449%20(2).jpg"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></a></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Later that morning, after an 11-mile motor down the river, we arrived at Marsden Cove Marina where we were scheduled to officially check out with NZ Immigration the following morning. We spent a pleasant afternoon at the marina enjoying their facilities (shower and dock water) and even got together with some other cruisers (who were also leaving) to enjoy a last dinner in New Zealand.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ZYnaR4OWQTSLE_W5wZoo4hIqeAD3poPfCH98l50XIpv2ODj6ABT5kS5U36d2_6p0Q2IO6ewi1D5XhSgF87RtxNLj-XgKpRwL16FtK4t8DLxytyG7AxSQaIvzFTKKyqKchr_fKsSkMURdRxVUQJq7No5r776gA47GA0LTC3g-dX7f267fodX_3X-Y7A/s4032/20220826_093306.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ZYnaR4OWQTSLE_W5wZoo4hIqeAD3poPfCH98l50XIpv2ODj6ABT5kS5U36d2_6p0Q2IO6ewi1D5XhSgF87RtxNLj-XgKpRwL16FtK4t8DLxytyG7AxSQaIvzFTKKyqKchr_fKsSkMURdRxVUQJq7No5r776gA47GA0LTC3g-dX7f267fodX_3X-Y7A/w640-h480/20220826_093306.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Getting ready to check out of Marsden Cove Marina</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Our first day was thankfully easy-peasy with nice flat seas, a mild breeze and minimal motoring. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSw3iW3NkLz1FmdthDEhgOKUiEOS5KWI8ui70vkXDcQRKdjtbAd2P-cH-LE30bbg0Vhdb9rupho-NrGuD7G7-1cOgSapf1AtC_79fg-_h3Jxe34Sx-uhwSxJyHa19A_8pEFzjRpjOp7gLn1Gw2PN73ekKnPgOs_WxsAONXxCBPsAz2WdgbtjamyljVNA/s4032/20220827_173734.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1960" data-original-width="4032" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSw3iW3NkLz1FmdthDEhgOKUiEOS5KWI8ui70vkXDcQRKdjtbAd2P-cH-LE30bbg0Vhdb9rupho-NrGuD7G7-1cOgSapf1AtC_79fg-_h3Jxe34Sx-uhwSxJyHa19A_8pEFzjRpjOp7gLn1Gw2PN73ekKnPgOs_WxsAONXxCBPsAz2WdgbtjamyljVNA/w640-h312/20220827_173734.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Sailing past the famous Poor Knights Islands. Sun is getting ready to set.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">We had departed on a new moon and I was worried that the night would be pitch black, but the skies were clear, the stars were shining and plentiful, and Jupiter was incredibly bright most of the night. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Twenty four hours later, the wind started picking up and the seas became more boisterous. The second night was very different from the first and we were happy to have crew to help out with the work. Our IridiumGo satphone post after that night read: </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> <i>"Night classes began…install third reef, learn how to heave to (and heave), learn rolling hitch (and why), learn to untangle flogging knotted, lazy sheet from working jib sheet, reeve #1 reef line to #3,practice how to resolve fumes and liquid from leaking petrol can, live enactments of What Not To Do and problem solving."</i></span></div></blockquote><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">For the next three days I counted wave trains coming from 6 different directions. Ugh. The cook was not thrilled and any food that was roundish invariably ended up taking a roll around the cabin. I recall chasing a cabbage, hard-boiled eggs, 2 avocados (lost one for a couple of days), some meatballs, apples and oranges. We also got to practice human pinball maneuvers below decks and one acrobatic body fling from the galley all the way across the cabin (Sylvia). Luckily no serious damage but ouch! </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">It was actually more pleasant above deck as long as we hunkered down inside the dodger. Conditions were wet with lots of water splashing over the dodger and also waves sneaking up the side and firehosing large amounts of water into the cockpit. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></div></div></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZJwOsSIwHcmqVSSGWG4WZFTXUxJ2YJ6qxwwmxJyzR8h8yuY26KA7h4pbhbxYwwmYgKLqiqz9Ne89_fd54UydMaAbNFxBUm0pnbv-7nX-vIQ_CufRw7VhdpFqQRczK943B2MHawGNEGVf0No4lC_hNUFVv_CUACHJnIDBkS8lW9kcHFADUhh4XKE91g/s2400/Screenshot_20220830-135501_Gallery%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="2400" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZJwOsSIwHcmqVSSGWG4WZFTXUxJ2YJ6qxwwmxJyzR8h8yuY26KA7h4pbhbxYwwmYgKLqiqz9Ne89_fd54UydMaAbNFxBUm0pnbv-7nX-vIQ_CufRw7VhdpFqQRczK943B2MHawGNEGVf0No4lC_hNUFVv_CUACHJnIDBkS8lW9kcHFADUhh4XKE91g/w640-h288/Screenshot_20220830-135501_Gallery%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Looks innocent...</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lFb2_xKRKQY7SwjLjMSXYdQt8HuiqdxgOWg93ty3YLJHqN_y1XZbgxdKZUMQZ8ordosv6BZqUOCKfucxP7Aw3Dz3OJ_QeAkOeqSlZ765K8RGYufIxTgmVc7XtIn7G2YaR7NAUXpHq7QhCClQtjX58kv_UqJ3FzufburhCHkxFUN7SqqPs17XKwcXpQ/s1200/Screenshot_20220830-135649_Gallery.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="1200" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lFb2_xKRKQY7SwjLjMSXYdQt8HuiqdxgOWg93ty3YLJHqN_y1XZbgxdKZUMQZ8ordosv6BZqUOCKfucxP7Aw3Dz3OJ_QeAkOeqSlZ765K8RGYufIxTgmVc7XtIn7G2YaR7NAUXpHq7QhCClQtjX58kv_UqJ3FzufburhCHkxFUN7SqqPs17XKwcXpQ/w640-h288/Screenshot_20220830-135649_Gallery.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">...but NO, a direct hit over the dodger.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;">After a few days the conditions settled down and we were able to have a very enjoyable voyage. Most of the nights were crystal clear and we were able to identify planets and constellations. Jupiter and Scorpio were our constant nighttime companions.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavZ3_bauA_s3Mak2PYnPo8h02J9RZe2BSC1ynjaii_tByn_x6AMxs005n5-ccA6Q8Ojxoy0iUXV1o6X9qR2XnhbnLNYbOiOypn9GMKI9l-8pFRsSyJmhEQFlJXDzXvmOWUL7P2Ww0otx_IdbGdBWzlKn2xE-k76wm90F8pMV2kUMct28aKLkwpaSg0Q/s4032/20220831_102812%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavZ3_bauA_s3Mak2PYnPo8h02J9RZe2BSC1ynjaii_tByn_x6AMxs005n5-ccA6Q8Ojxoy0iUXV1o6X9qR2XnhbnLNYbOiOypn9GMKI9l-8pFRsSyJmhEQFlJXDzXvmOWUL7P2Ww0otx_IdbGdBWzlKn2xE-k76wm90F8pMV2kUMct28aKLkwpaSg0Q/w640-h480/20220831_102812%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Nathan takes a turn at the helm. It's still a bit chilly and wet.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">We were delighted to be visited by numerous curious marine birds. Ian has terrific knowledge of the various birds and we were able to identify many of them.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiT7f7fVzFsJ9TKwhVDS2HtOizd74w0ZnXWO116FtCvaqJM-DJ9nDJTm5Os5nWUFRDeblpTV5zz8TApZo-yERPUd7JK3inuu-iY9T7WLefI0YtikPf11LBUD7BlCMD-R9HVU-19UsznWpGcguYKpj9i9T9eNHukHwJqfS1dOK7JMRv3ZLhd3scsclTSw/s512/1011%20(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="512" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiT7f7fVzFsJ9TKwhVDS2HtOizd74w0ZnXWO116FtCvaqJM-DJ9nDJTm5Os5nWUFRDeblpTV5zz8TApZo-yERPUd7JK3inuu-iY9T7WLefI0YtikPf11LBUD7BlCMD-R9HVU-19UsznWpGcguYKpj9i9T9eNHukHwJqfS1dOK7JMRv3ZLhd3scsclTSw/w640-h480/1011%20(2).jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">We reckoned this was a Northern Royal Albatross.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">As usual we were also visited by random flying fish ending up on our decks. One night Ian was on watch and I was preparing to join him. There was a large THUMP! like a drum and when I joined Ian on deck there were fish scales all over the cockpit. A large flying fish had made a direct hit on the taut dodger effectively turning it into a fish drum. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">While still needing jackets at night, the days were becoming warmer and shorts and t-shirts became the norm.</span></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">We were fortunate that the wind and waves had settled down because it enabled us to make a mid-ocean stop at <i>South </i>Minerva Reef for a couple of hours for lunch. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gjg3SPIGEAkcHId4udxRb_vkJgE-bv20QdjrUp-D6zPgujROutfbtx_-WlmxAA_tg0I6YY8rFsdoDIvFhuoIUtb-sk_azpQKLE47KNOEavhDqrDpMzyNtZ3hQiqWdZwpMhRGiM9wAcAJb1FFWCKaZYqZND8R53zEyRoHa9hJrtJ9PZQBZigthCsIeA/s870/Screenshot%20(1).png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="870" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gjg3SPIGEAkcHId4udxRb_vkJgE-bv20QdjrUp-D6zPgujROutfbtx_-WlmxAA_tg0I6YY8rFsdoDIvFhuoIUtb-sk_azpQKLE47KNOEavhDqrDpMzyNtZ3hQiqWdZwpMhRGiM9wAcAJb1FFWCKaZYqZND8R53zEyRoHa9hJrtJ9PZQBZigthCsIeA/w640-h458/Screenshot%20(1).png" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Our track from Whangarei, NZ to Fiji. Note the black dot, more or less the location of <i>South </i>Minerva Reef where we stopped for lunch and showers</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">It's amazing to be able to enter a reef in the middle of the ocean. We had stopped at <i>North </i>Minerva Reef on our way down from Tonga but we had not visited South Minerva. Neither Ian nor Nathan had been to either of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minerva_Reefs" target="_blank">Minervas </a>so we were keen to pay a visit. One must enter these reefs very carefully as there are numerous coral heads. With Ian on the bow as lookout, Nathan and I on each side and Tom driving, we carefully negotiated the pass and looked for a place to drop the anchor. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbMiXiWL6WU554Ar1FvsAFyEaD9GJyOLc0R53JHGesJStYDksr3s_CShGB5IuN7Hu6xmHaWIhVfb59mUQFdTWkTF-1DkxgtFjfOWqYxm4eEEOzvz9I9n5_H0BahGckj4C04VC0KmgqIH85rOWtVBI9AWflvMv6rer1NQl_u2RkqKaz_1s3uc-m7qV6Zw/s1008/20220901_104204%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1008" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbMiXiWL6WU554Ar1FvsAFyEaD9GJyOLc0R53JHGesJStYDksr3s_CShGB5IuN7Hu6xmHaWIhVfb59mUQFdTWkTF-1DkxgtFjfOWqYxm4eEEOzvz9I9n5_H0BahGckj4C04VC0KmgqIH85rOWtVBI9AWflvMv6rer1NQl_u2RkqKaz_1s3uc-m7qV6Zw/w640-h480/20220901_104204%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Outside the reef looking for the narrow pass. We had it on our navigational devices but we still have to eyeball it. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><br /><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfkeMv9nElD6apEnlrxXT7YEOq3mhrR7S8GWmm1lbyRtA9k6JcPtH-uRW4-YbgIa-lchZqLQImBZR4ewuCPrTURlRjypaaaA65745IDMZQj6zuL8x36W5JyZQ8OSRXhfrO9U9SFwdoKMVg2YVPLc7THW9JorqQvlhbCsCSnx0FEOKaK_laPqbjO_W/s1067/South.800px.Minerva_Reefs.Nasa.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1067" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfkeMv9nElD6apEnlrxXT7YEOq3mhrR7S8GWmm1lbyRtA9k6JcPtH-uRW4-YbgIa-lchZqLQImBZR4ewuCPrTURlRjypaaaA65745IDMZQj6zuL8x36W5JyZQ8OSRXhfrO9U9SFwdoKMVg2YVPLc7THW9JorqQvlhbCsCSnx0FEOKaK_laPqbjO_W/w640-h480/South.800px.Minerva_Reefs.Nasa.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Both Minerva Reefs<br />(Credit: NASA, Wikipedia)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCumTVp77dYeHGgJS-GBSRoxHjFFMEwUnpM8UPpcI2btY3bodW2kbi9gb3F-3TW3ntPiKHnpAivLtrq72f6r-43pQm0eRQxtM8fBkGOSX9LJJsWJCpm5HiXwTbu6LyijUg9AkoQMnygw-8gHd8YqKAfR9Sm1_mQqJFHhM3_EmjLOFKPH7qKULYmfvn/s1112/southMinervaReef.CMapChart.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="1112" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCumTVp77dYeHGgJS-GBSRoxHjFFMEwUnpM8UPpcI2btY3bodW2kbi9gb3F-3TW3ntPiKHnpAivLtrq72f6r-43pQm0eRQxtM8fBkGOSX9LJJsWJCpm5HiXwTbu6LyijUg9AkoQMnygw-8gHd8YqKAfR9Sm1_mQqJFHhM3_EmjLOFKPH7qKULYmfvn/w582-h376/southMinervaReef.CMapChart.JPG" width="582" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">C-Maps Chart - note the narrow pass.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-PlAcYK-cR9ZUvCebX7pNnu0hRx4HHi1DdRjQYyxiYwcz7YvHAAdMrFH9-8pb62n2B4BtcdyYZkh4vngNW8zoPR_ueKeLq965_8GAJojWRg65PZMmqMmWRkYLjrziSJ2Ogf9oCzAeRGZqAmAvOtCfjlGH5KoNp-8qL0FAALqj5-CGaXwCQlMVvZ06A/s4032/20220901_113017%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF-PlAcYK-cR9ZUvCebX7pNnu0hRx4HHi1DdRjQYyxiYwcz7YvHAAdMrFH9-8pb62n2B4BtcdyYZkh4vngNW8zoPR_ueKeLq965_8GAJojWRg65PZMmqMmWRkYLjrziSJ2Ogf9oCzAeRGZqAmAvOtCfjlGH5KoNp-8qL0FAALqj5-CGaXwCQlMVvZ06A/w640-h480/20220901_113017%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Looking for coral heads, bommies and other navigational dangers. Luckily we had perfect conditions, clear sky and a high sun overhead.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;">With the anchor down we were able to enjoy a blessedly calm lunch and showers on the back deck. Everybody had been doing a superb job of remaining clean and tidy but oh my did those showers feel good! </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">A day after leaving Minerva Ian put the fishing line out and we caught a mahi-mahi, one of our favorite and tastiest fishes. Our afternoon plans, watches and evening meal were completely sidetracked while we landed the beautiful fish, filleted and packaged her and put the fillets in the freezer. That evening we enjoyed an appetizer of fresh fish roe on crackers and meal of blackened mahi-mahi on Jambalaya.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJPoCmzAmqiMSPWF85svchVRV7n-CtLoYqpjrWCmBy4qqLxAzw5uV8TD6uqgh5cI-D5-2waBwDVG50ogy_Xi8BqOEKojTOpIo_2LDJ6GHwbYvMK3CMkq84TN9COiR0GsioORS10C-QRNLMTGQKwffT8LJKYnJOSw_j2CQeebd8b21gYN3SSWxfwOwPLw/s4032/20220902_165119.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1960" data-original-width="4032" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJPoCmzAmqiMSPWF85svchVRV7n-CtLoYqpjrWCmBy4qqLxAzw5uV8TD6uqgh5cI-D5-2waBwDVG50ogy_Xi8BqOEKojTOpIo_2LDJ6GHwbYvMK3CMkq84TN9COiR0GsioORS10C-QRNLMTGQKwffT8LJKYnJOSw_j2CQeebd8b21gYN3SSWxfwOwPLw/w640-h312/20220902_165119.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Ian, Tom and Nathan with their catch.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9se9EIanFoLpN-RZmnM9hKt6BgJBWBx_0cmt2z0n5YtQmd2nyWHJDMkyBmvzJDsjARQ936Ttkgh7RYaMB17thTFd_sX3l1KUUkxHGEtbeM2l8ZEQnzemYQggVwF5FT8ak6LRXZFoNXtRS9UV6V2qcO3ambkynOu78dKOZgYYGWM6jTLw8_60Imwk/s4032/20220901_173310.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9se9EIanFoLpN-RZmnM9hKt6BgJBWBx_0cmt2z0n5YtQmd2nyWHJDMkyBmvzJDsjARQ936Ttkgh7RYaMB17thTFd_sX3l1KUUkxHGEtbeM2l8ZEQnzemYQggVwF5FT8ak6LRXZFoNXtRS9UV6V2qcO3ambkynOu78dKOZgYYGWM6jTLw8_60Imwk/w640-h480/20220901_173310.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Good to witness the fair weather South Pacific sunsets again.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">By now we were closing in on Fiji. Nathan was the first to sight land and a "Land Ho!" was officially issued.</span></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCqN-KsPQoQ-tdg7OxckWVNWMq058wzSVmYM3Gh77qhx0XhYD4DglBkptz09jk4QNbObDnv0jqgkmf4xy5QaOJunGgAvM3FISa3W9fY5m-FE3_-IAxZpv98ePExUeZ4kHFZ6MvkRwAZPSbFgROnovLWyrXhGCX5jKlctI4W34q3NQl2F02CPFNQNt75Q/s4032/20220904_080153.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1960" data-original-width="4032" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCqN-KsPQoQ-tdg7OxckWVNWMq058wzSVmYM3Gh77qhx0XhYD4DglBkptz09jk4QNbObDnv0jqgkmf4xy5QaOJunGgAvM3FISa3W9fY5m-FE3_-IAxZpv98ePExUeZ4kHFZ6MvkRwAZPSbFgROnovLWyrXhGCX5jKlctI4W34q3NQl2F02CPFNQNt75Q/w640-h312/20220904_080153.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">We see Fiji!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBmtw12Ye5x4gwPxZ5vSdzpPkhTnjm8-EAmzehlQ9rTVFqO9OqyUdA-7AGiOTR9rxPvlLgKAt5Dj9VHAuDRQZWHkV6LiDlQ-BD5gX5hURftkyAP0vvnCSzEY-00ESS95bnph_aPi3lvOIvjSmIRiIUerf7dX_7ININQsYNQvhIsu6SmGY-v-6hU0Zcg/s4032/20220904_083621%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBmtw12Ye5x4gwPxZ5vSdzpPkhTnjm8-EAmzehlQ9rTVFqO9OqyUdA-7AGiOTR9rxPvlLgKAt5Dj9VHAuDRQZWHkV6LiDlQ-BD5gX5hURftkyAP0vvnCSzEY-00ESS95bnph_aPi3lvOIvjSmIRiIUerf7dX_7ININQsYNQvhIsu6SmGY-v-6hU0Zcg/w640-h480/20220904_083621%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Ian raises the "Q" (quarantine") flag on the starboard spreader while Nathan gets the Stars and Strips ready on the port spreader. After we officially check in we remove the Q flag and raise the flag of Fiji in its place.<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">As we entered the harbor of Savusavu on the northern island of Vanua Levu we were greeted by our friend Rob from the vessel Shindig. (We had done the Pacific crossing on Shindig in 2017, the year after we did it on Cinnabar.) We had some supplies for Shindig that we carried up from New Zealand. It was fabulous to get such a friendly greeting upon our arrival. Technically we could not let him board or give him his supplies until we checked in but it was great to see him.</span></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSEa3UaVsmYRsH1Y6pU_RWE45oWd5KO34_qmbwlP3yQb-b9zgHZwCuDb6aG3Cyan43LwHKbaKQQn769-u9vUFlhm6gy4xFi4kug3Ji08XzPi1SjKrdgiuJ2mwrf40znKhgsOLXW0VISwwS6TCZ15OCgkmPsickqoyMuynJc2_QMI_nPZahxWWrCi7DQ/s4032/20220904_091724%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSEa3UaVsmYRsH1Y6pU_RWE45oWd5KO34_qmbwlP3yQb-b9zgHZwCuDb6aG3Cyan43LwHKbaKQQn769-u9vUFlhm6gy4xFi4kug3Ji08XzPi1SjKrdgiuJ2mwrf40znKhgsOLXW0VISwwS6TCZ15OCgkmPsickqoyMuynJc2_QMI_nPZahxWWrCi7DQ/w640-h480/20220904_091724%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">The next few days were a flurry of activity as we had to do all the various "check-in" tasks, biosecurity, customs, immigration, etc. We were also keen to clean the boat, visit the town of Savusavu, and do a bit of sight-seeing.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXTh5fMLAKtOc6AcaghjKoq3zLCmc64hBfvGV5QCuCSF3B9cSEkqOXTgR1MeLMNMKeruSWooGu6cS_tY28JZYZaQ4nQKxy6Q-av8nW1MWrd7dLZVeRXRE7MAG-Q0UDZlG8mMPHynR7aF1qhNDB-WUDQzZjgdNuEXylwJIQuPXD2yIHHxYpiYGcm3VPJw/s2048/IMG_9537%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXTh5fMLAKtOc6AcaghjKoq3zLCmc64hBfvGV5QCuCSF3B9cSEkqOXTgR1MeLMNMKeruSWooGu6cS_tY28JZYZaQ4nQKxy6Q-av8nW1MWrd7dLZVeRXRE7MAG-Q0UDZlG8mMPHynR7aF1qhNDB-WUDQzZjgdNuEXylwJIQuPXD2yIHHxYpiYGcm3VPJw/w480-h640/IMG_9537%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Cinnabar on her mooring in Savusavu, Fiji.<br />(46 months after arriving to NZ)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">After several days of exploring and enjoying land it was time for our fabulous crew to leave Fiji and fly back to their native New Zealand. We all agreed that on balance it was a pretty fantastic voyage. Everybody was immaculately tidy, there were no ego trips and we all worked together well to make the most of our trip.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1960" data-original-width="4032" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUO-hs3crwd1oJ4yCWLKH_fGy0ZXGQPkBijAOlEAVcIAJOD1WIAbgSp4eZiq0Lt1SugmzdnapEXpswVauwCmP4tgWS6voaVt7kxEORaClYE1sJq8tlRrEJexi1XPEUmaB5L8gIbxvUS0z8-uQxUifXPcZoxovjphTQsobbvXC6iVDOpCT3qk45FX9How/w640-h312/20220909_080414.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Taxi arrives to take our wonderful crew away from us.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUO-hs3crwd1oJ4yCWLKH_fGy0ZXGQPkBijAOlEAVcIAJOD1WIAbgSp4eZiq0Lt1SugmzdnapEXpswVauwCmP4tgWS6voaVt7kxEORaClYE1sJq8tlRrEJexi1XPEUmaB5L8gIbxvUS0z8-uQxUifXPcZoxovjphTQsobbvXC6iVDOpCT3qk45FX9How/s4032/20220909_080414.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTMCrtvJlEZ7KVUjhwz4345dtu__L_GmBNUeCn_1VQBZvmlZWRFemtFLHlRXvTW1_ZZscOE4ndK9Oi0Jx0dIjzEri4ZWrndh6QDIMNOO0QXPyBKQ4fLlII0XwVvMzR2-G_QMP8BdY-I8iWUJBQFAMtQ7bFeMuxicS2PPUvwSJxLWV5NtQle3lLhCu8w/s1857/20220909_080139.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1857" data-original-width="1706" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTMCrtvJlEZ7KVUjhwz4345dtu__L_GmBNUeCn_1VQBZvmlZWRFemtFLHlRXvTW1_ZZscOE4ndK9Oi0Jx0dIjzEri4ZWrndh6QDIMNOO0QXPyBKQ4fLlII0XwVvMzR2-G_QMP8BdY-I8iWUJBQFAMtQ7bFeMuxicS2PPUvwSJxLWV5NtQle3lLhCu8w/w588-h640/20220909_080139.jpg" width="588" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Thank you rock stars Nathan and Ian!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Our IridiumGo track and daily updates can be found here: <a href="https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SV-Cinnabar/"><b><span style="color: red;">CINNABAR IridiumGo</span></b></a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div><b>Trip Summary:</b></div></span></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div>Total Distance Made Good: 1340 nm</div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div>Total Duration: 7.8 days (187.5 hrs)</div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div>Average Boatspeed: 7.14 kts</div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div>Engine Motoring: 3.5 hrs</div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div>Genset Munning: 16.2 hr </div></span></div></blockquote><div><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"><div> </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Notes:</b></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Sailed conservatively due to this being a defacto sea trial of the 2.5 year boat refit.</li><li>Incredibly, all major systems worked well (standing rigging, rudder bearings, autopilot ram, refrigeration, main water tank, etc.) . </li><li>Used reefs 2 and 3 much of the time; we had good breeze (15-25 kts) on (predominantly) 90-150 deg apparent wind (tradewinds are usually E to ESE TWD).</li><li>We waiting patiently for a good weather window and got lucky that it held throughout.</li><li>The Fisher-Panda genset, which broke 4 years earlier, ran perfectly well with its newly installed Kubota engine (1 cyl, EA-300) replacement.</li><li>The Icom SSB radio could receive well enough but transmit (at certain duplex freqs - 7.5 MHz) caused resets. We later discovered that transmit at simplex freqs (e.eg. 8.752 Mhz) works fine.</li></ul></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-69917499198603670582020-04-09T18:51:00.001-07:002020-04-09T19:42:28.509-07:00OMG I started this post ONE YEAR ago!!...Pulling the Rig on CINNABAR - February 2019<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>April 2020</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>New Zealand Lockdown Day 15 - All is well with us and the boat.</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I started this post one year ago, almost completed it, then got busy/distracted and never finished. Boat maintenance and repair is likely of little interest to "normal" people, i.e. non-yachties, but it is a large part of our lives so if you think living on a boat is all about sunsets and happy hours, (how we wish it were), it is NOT. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>MAY 2019:</b> Riverside Drive Marina and boatyard, CINNABAR's tented home for the southern hemisphere winter (aka northern hemisphere summer)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>February 2019 - </b>Before beginning CINNABAR's spa treatment in the boat yard (where she still is now April 2020) we decided to pull her rig (remove the mast) so that we could inspect it closely and service, repair, refit as necessary. There was nothing wrong with the mast or rigging, but after six years of cruising and nine years since it was last removed (before the 2010 Pacific Cup Race), it was time for some routine maintenance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br />We interviewed and hired a professional rigger to help us out. Matthew, who owns <a href="https://csparnz.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: red;">C-Spar Rigging</span></b></a>, was highly recommended to us and he is an impressive guy. He's been around the world four times competing in the Whitbread round-the-world races (afterward renamed the Volvo Ocean Race and now named The Ocean Race).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With CINNABAR's deep draft (3 meters) we would have to travel to Matthew's shop during high tide otherwise we would get stuck in the mud. The plan: motor to the boatyard at the beginning of high tide, pull the mast, and then motor back to our marina near the end of high tide, hopefully making it back before it got too shallow. Would we be able to pull the rig in two hours? If not we would have to wait to return until the next high tide later that night, ugh.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We made it to the boatyard at 12:30 p.m., the beginning of the high tide. The big red crane was in position and ready to start lifting CINNABAR's boom and mast.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We hired local boat-builder Glenn (left) to help us out. He and Matthew (right) remove the boom.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We hoisted Matthew up the mast to attach the lifting strap (thank you electric winches!).</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35DDPhxc-EhjBCi0OIAG8RQpA2Fw4RlfrlhdkpIqH4a7Cm5oi3-OH-j8wLAD4aQvmr2UEw0NM7MFpWVq9hEjfPTUeZtUGIzLxmPpZUfyXayAP-RBHN_F6QmVr3U0ekFyooszwxW4LdoPe/s1600/IMG_1467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg35DDPhxc-EhjBCi0OIAG8RQpA2Fw4RlfrlhdkpIqH4a7Cm5oi3-OH-j8wLAD4aQvmr2UEw0NM7MFpWVq9hEjfPTUeZtUGIzLxmPpZUfyXayAP-RBHN_F6QmVr3U0ekFyooszwxW4LdoPe/s640/IMG_1467.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Matthew (L) tends the lines as Glenn and I wrap the bottom of CINNABAR's mast to protect it and to keep all the hanging bits together.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLIaNh9TMvC3n9bnxnf39r7ovroU_yljCTpKhmMkF6xAdiN_XsvkK_h26tpR-moraWJQBJTk_ruLmBFk6TSiwNe3pLdFa6bW8yIian398zdsJEld2JrtOS1_a1SG_pcIT_rtydICWiGzL/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLIaNh9TMvC3n9bnxnf39r7ovroU_yljCTpKhmMkF6xAdiN_XsvkK_h26tpR-moraWJQBJTk_ruLmBFk6TSiwNe3pLdFa6bW8yIian398zdsJEld2JrtOS1_a1SG_pcIT_rtydICWiGzL/s640/IMG_1468.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The crane starts lifting the mast. Even though made of carbon fiber, it is still a heavy mass.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR's mast is off the boat.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Matthew balances the base of the mast on a dolly preparing to put it on two rolling saw horses.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGxuwb8ISJ6ziY_-A07aZfb4YiQxHKKaqJa6DtJvo3hI3f9O3FplmPlJASuzk6gbeO_La8ljPGzNpLuIegvwrsSheA0iINCiq4uANJJj5Gx3U1YBmvGymPm1nRGIQU_BWRL7F93gmamlq/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGxuwb8ISJ6ziY_-A07aZfb4YiQxHKKaqJa6DtJvo3hI3f9O3FplmPlJASuzk6gbeO_La8ljPGzNpLuIegvwrsSheA0iINCiq4uANJJj5Gx3U1YBmvGymPm1nRGIQU_BWRL7F93gmamlq/s640/IMG_1478.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR's mast ready to move to its storage location.<br />(manually wheelable on the two specialized dollies)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Luckily we got the boom and mast removed from CINNABAR by 2:00 p.m. so we were able to make it back to the marina on the same high tide. We had plenty of inches (not feet) under our keel for the trip back to the dock.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisz9kaIMBfy59XxURN52t3lVDnM-Ims0jiBRy2JqfTA3O_egIiKVCbTa2LHXPF6ZkB38UuAfI_pTD9db7zxxtLNqNoqHI0B5uSPs-jNpFAVnTpTXSrB6R9XRlvJIsBGQvXb71-eJ52Vq5f/s1600/IMG_1480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisz9kaIMBfy59XxURN52t3lVDnM-Ims0jiBRy2JqfTA3O_egIiKVCbTa2LHXPF6ZkB38UuAfI_pTD9db7zxxtLNqNoqHI0B5uSPs-jNpFAVnTpTXSrB6R9XRlvJIsBGQvXb71-eJ52Vq5f/s640/IMG_1480.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The mast is ready for Tom and Matthew to start working on it.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Later, Tom and Matthew removed the rigging and Tom trailered the rod rigging to Auckland (2.5 hr. drive each way) to replace some of the parts. </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6VzKrP24sIRiX3hb5TKswKZ3JV9s3sLc2gg-q3TBceu3Ozj6clu4KLkfG1LGStke7xtVMrYXobZAlZZtDiXaWNs_Mm3tQAW9ye0U4mhAMm5tRmJwxcrAoNspW3jVx_kgkh8JG6UsENBhv/s1600/IMG_1606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1227" data-original-width="1600" height="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6VzKrP24sIRiX3hb5TKswKZ3JV9s3sLc2gg-q3TBceu3Ozj6clu4KLkfG1LGStke7xtVMrYXobZAlZZtDiXaWNs_Mm3tQAW9ye0U4mhAMm5tRmJwxcrAoNspW3jVx_kgkh8JG6UsENBhv/s640/IMG_1606.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom used ALCYONE'S van and Matthew's trailer to take the rod rigging to the special service shop in Auckland. Matthew approves the load.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFECuuF2_pd3XJ-_Q0ONIWpjmmO0RS86fAgjb0o9PqeZpIAsun1p6f-At0J1PF93bs8srb09SsrQ5e9cdBe5lyOrZOvVviJRGlg-_jKN_eAFY91Jgh-p9QU0L_p5Du1y3FoKyz4EQ5-BF/s1600/IMG_1609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFECuuF2_pd3XJ-_Q0ONIWpjmmO0RS86fAgjb0o9PqeZpIAsun1p6f-At0J1PF93bs8srb09SsrQ5e9cdBe5lyOrZOvVviJRGlg-_jKN_eAFY91Jgh-p9QU0L_p5Du1y3FoKyz4EQ5-BF/s640/IMG_1609.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The machinist at excellent <a href="http://www.kzmarine.com/" target="_blank">KZ Marine</a> in Auckland with the special cold head machine, dies, materials, and expertise to service the rod rigging.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Overall, the fittings and standing rigging were in pretty good shape. None of the rods or rod heads showed any wear or cracks and were still well lubricated when disassembled and inspected. Most of the hardware was readily removed from the spars without breakage or corrosion. We considered switching to another system for the rigging, like wire or synthetic fiber, but in the end, it made the most sense to stick with the rod rigging. It has definite benefits and has worked well. The rod rigging is original at 17 years of age. General recommendations vary, but some say major inspection is every ~6 years with replacement at about 12 or 18 years of age or 30,000-60,0000 nautical miles sailed, depending on use. Since the Nitronic-50 rod (extra strong and durable SS) was in such good shape, we have not sailed excessive distances, and we have the rod-screw length to do it, we elected to do a mix of retain some rods, replace some, and head/re-head all, effectively refreshing all of the standing rigging. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Some reference details: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">11 total rods/segments. 4 new rods, 7 re-used rods, all headed or re-headed. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">- Forestay (1 rod, -30 (was -25); replaced)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">- Backstay (2 rods), -17; lower replaced)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">- Capshroud uppers (2 rods with spreader bends (V2/D3), -22, replaced)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">- Capshroud lowers (2 rods (V1), -30; reused)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">- Diagonals (2 upper, (D2) -30; 2 lower (D1), -30); all reused)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* Forestay replaced because of general abuse by furler, headfoil, high loads.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* Forestay size increased (to -30) because original size (-25) no longer available</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* Capshroud uppers replaced because is area of highest loads</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* Capshroud uppers cannot be re-headed due to spreader bend/'bushing'</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* There are a total 22 rod heads (and 2 spreader bends) doing the essential task of keeping the mast upright.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">* Nitronic-50 dash num (e.g. -30) is min. breaking strength in 1000 lb units.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">End of reference)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEIlu94hb3peCx-ahw4E-a1y_dFXRQyyYS10G7vpg8YvAcmuBy08nbvl4AY0AFDKtkqjMs41ddvawzPjxslx-Av37XCN5fWx5ai7syz_Iq23lBlodj1re0itSb3Lq_yVMbWP3b1kbk_TI/s1600/IMG_1533.cleanedRodHeads+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEIlu94hb3peCx-ahw4E-a1y_dFXRQyyYS10G7vpg8YvAcmuBy08nbvl4AY0AFDKtkqjMs41ddvawzPjxslx-Av37XCN5fWx5ai7syz_Iq23lBlodj1re0itSb3Lq_yVMbWP3b1kbk_TI/s640/IMG_1533.cleanedRodHeads+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">These are some of the rod heads, stemballs, and tip cups after cleanup with a grey 3M Scotchbrite wheel. They were still well-covered in lube (Tef-Gel or Teflon grease) with zero signs of cracking or corrosion. We elected to re-head some of the rods and replace others.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj57BPTqHiUh93ju1tiTyNTKZwQ_DdHEreDF5WlQdG3fubX9ZT-NXCOP7re1nqV1knXMA0oE-srXmcKt5ik2Cph5-Me1GJDCRxrkTQAWfhKQ3UgqjAygpld0pnw8YIcekVcPDz9KRKrqvY/s1600/IMG_1542.backstayInsulator+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj57BPTqHiUh93ju1tiTyNTKZwQ_DdHEreDF5WlQdG3fubX9ZT-NXCOP7re1nqV1knXMA0oE-srXmcKt5ik2Cph5-Me1GJDCRxrkTQAWfhKQ3UgqjAygpld0pnw8YIcekVcPDz9KRKrqvY/s640/IMG_1542.backstayInsulator+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The insulated backstay to enable it to be used as the antenna for the HF/SSB radio. The delrin components of the insulator, assembled left, disassembled right, isolates the lower backstay segment from the upper segment which is connected to the HF radio's antenna tuner. This keeps humans on deck from getting shocked by radio transmissions.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bTkHfkzxFhEPNM6IIXWE-FWMBNrvIf9_S83Fsfl9YAAp0lWQJ31ibJacj6ES6Ulv0GsAuj2waK-XNR_ZG4GU1V6zpfYoi1WkPh7udhbZL3Wv40JBZDHM6jzQmReeG0JLADnq7SKuFjY/s1600/IMG_1514.portChaoinplatesFront+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bTkHfkzxFhEPNM6IIXWE-FWMBNrvIf9_S83Fsfl9YAAp0lWQJ31ibJacj6ES6Ulv0GsAuj2waK-XNR_ZG4GU1V6zpfYoi1WkPh7udhbZL3Wv40JBZDHM6jzQmReeG0JLADnq7SKuFjY/s640/IMG_1514.portChaoinplatesFront+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Dual stainless steel chainplates per side, with some recent known leakage through the deck, caught before any significant corrosion could occur. They will be cleaned up and reused. <br />(Port side, inward/unseen faces)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4az8GotXzdQ2LPZGNlAUuQV7Q1EOojGML5OeHhV6YjByIyFUgYetpus-iXRi6kjQbc7HtaRV-sctFZbFSMNnneUT94RWkzPS0a4uOw5rZ_Vq13F4Fcl4Vwmtu7FpxUa5CB-sD8ZTuOHo/s1600/IMG_1620.maskJackInPlace+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4az8GotXzdQ2LPZGNlAUuQV7Q1EOojGML5OeHhV6YjByIyFUgYetpus-iXRi6kjQbc7HtaRV-sctFZbFSMNnneUT94RWkzPS0a4uOw5rZ_Vq13F4Fcl4Vwmtu7FpxUa5CB-sD8ZTuOHo/s640/IMG_1620.maskJackInPlace+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The base of the mast has a dense fiberglass shoe with large alignment holes (for the mast step posts) as well as an internal hydraulic mast ram (mounted inverted and rated to 10,000 psi / 30,000 lbs!) to lift the mast onto the spacer plates and tension the standing rigging.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx12mywJah_BArSueFtrnRZAzx4VYcv3-PSk4nb-PhUwELTxjxcCF5LBCepUkzSnEmI7sGMBGFOaEKbHeCBszvVGM0ZFRK168hMGg3VhFUyB5G99meZvZjT0EiTnn0I2VLzCuyirIZKyw/s1600/IMG_2301.mastHardwareStorageReady+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx12mywJah_BArSueFtrnRZAzx4VYcv3-PSk4nb-PhUwELTxjxcCF5LBCepUkzSnEmI7sGMBGFOaEKbHeCBszvVGM0ZFRK168hMGg3VhFUyB5G99meZvZjT0EiTnn0I2VLzCuyirIZKyw/s640/IMG_2301.mastHardwareStorageReady+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All lines and hardware stripped from the spars and organized into bins for storage. It is surprising how the weight all adds up - each bin was very heavy to lift.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Matthew and Tom (and I helped too) got our boom and mast prepared for winter storage as we would not be putting it back in until 2020. There was not room in CINNABAR's tent for the mast so we stored it at Matthew's location at another boatyard called Dockland 5.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Fast Forward to February 2020</b> - We returned to New Zealand in December 2019 and were immediately up to our ears in various boat refit/repair projects including repainting the deck and hull, as well as the mast, which resides at a separate boatyard. Over time, the old mast paint gets severely oxidized and chalky, so even though it looked OK (not great), it was time to have it repainted. To prep for this job we had to remove most of the remaining bolted-on hardware.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We subsequently cleaned and polished every single part and screw that was removed. You can't put ugly, dirty, and/or corroded parts back on a beautiful new paint job!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir822jzLx4qvNUPU5XGTrphfxXhAYpQ0Hpoa70uU4fyc_9Jymm9obDBIgI1dpGUW18VFE_-F61UCvrorDOtW_rM3vPsegEBZATY_USfNLCKrDfxH2LNWIXeKlDuuLH8oAtxkuuHBFl0xAa/s1600/20200215_134200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="854" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir822jzLx4qvNUPU5XGTrphfxXhAYpQ0Hpoa70uU4fyc_9Jymm9obDBIgI1dpGUW18VFE_-F61UCvrorDOtW_rM3vPsegEBZATY_USfNLCKrDfxH2LNWIXeKlDuuLH8oAtxkuuHBFl0xAa/s640/20200215_134200.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We used a variety of tools to remove all of the mast hardware, Everything came off except the mains'l and spinnaker pole tracks. There is a lot of work and very little value in removing these long tracks..</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjguG4AQIbdjMAALkg0-ZFWjQZ1PL3zxlFEzKoBkfVJblwx-3ULLGMBylYOOhhuAx4br4B7T2Du5Xqxv7YziN_Sy0ANAfER__1Uz0v1Wf8YhY6pSJNJZAQYMStqceCuFHI1tga5bxplraVU/s1600/20200215_150132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="854" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjguG4AQIbdjMAALkg0-ZFWjQZ1PL3zxlFEzKoBkfVJblwx-3ULLGMBylYOOhhuAx4br4B7T2Du5Xqxv7YziN_Sy0ANAfER__1Uz0v1Wf8YhY6pSJNJZAQYMStqceCuFHI1tga5bxplraVU/s640/20200215_150132.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A not-flattering shot of Sylvia removing the storm trysail track. Most of the stainless steel fasteners readily unscrewed from the carbon fiber mast, thankfully. However, there always have to be some that are problematic. With a manual impact driver and penetrating fluid, all but about 4 of the reticent screws come out. The 4 broken ones will have to be drilled out.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgNoBWg0l0kOjYyYZaa_3hxHDlXtMaqTMiw0T4vVObQnXSsI9jTBsedCpPuBUtYS1Z33N2HJ2QBRtse4fYS2JfsJuG6altZtaO_1PDjhCEB5nNMxoETl6yFPAH3zCXRBLNasuT3kL9vlQ/s1600/20200215_162908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="854" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgNoBWg0l0kOjYyYZaa_3hxHDlXtMaqTMiw0T4vVObQnXSsI9jTBsedCpPuBUtYS1Z33N2HJ2QBRtse4fYS2JfsJuG6altZtaO_1PDjhCEB5nNMxoETl6yFPAH3zCXRBLNasuT3kL9vlQ/s640/20200215_162908.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The masthead tri-light housing had turned into a spider condominium during the NZ winter. The spiders were NOT happy to be rousted. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMEQy6lEGnxal0R-38zBruEUtreE5pfe5GaX1Tg92NjXZHfejZ4EV4XwDLqlbPTDiFDFQzux327bflUE19okh3mXITdoQ6eJFWYWRxmcSp1wkV3KvsS4dODDMPsuM2LgCq3V2b4J_mP53/s1600/20200216_154820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="854" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMEQy6lEGnxal0R-38zBruEUtreE5pfe5GaX1Tg92NjXZHfejZ4EV4XwDLqlbPTDiFDFQzux327bflUE19okh3mXITdoQ6eJFWYWRxmcSp1wkV3KvsS4dODDMPsuM2LgCq3V2b4J_mP53/s640/20200216_154820.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had to remove the spreaders and prep them for painting as well.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After removing the hardware we had to move the mast into a big shed so it could get painted. Inside the shed, the painter had to build a plastic tent (spray booth) to keep dust and other flying debris off the wet paint.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After the mast got painted we started putting all the hardware back on the mast, but we only got a few pieces installed when New Zealand went into lockdown. Here's a look at the glossy new stick:</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Polyurethane paint, Matterhorn White, with 2 coats of UV inhibiting gloss. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>RESULT OF LOCKDOWN: Dockland 5</b> closed its gates and we are not allowed back in until lockdown is over, so all boat work at that yard is postponed until we can get back in. CINNABAR is at <b>Riverside Drive Marina</b> which is still open because yachties live on their boats there, so luckily we can continue our work on the boat. Also, since the boat is just across the street from the house we are renting and is in a tent this work area is firmly contained within our "bubble". Yes, we do see other yachties at the boatyard/marina but everyone is careful to maintain appropriate social distancing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>OUR CURRENT SITUATION:</b> We are halfway through New Zealand's mandatory 4 week (at least, TBD) lockdown which seems to be working well here. Good news...our tourist visas were automatically extended through September 25, 2020 so that is no longer an immediate concern. Will we be able to sail to Fiji as planned? Who knows? All the yachties are in "wait and see" mode as regards border closures. But for the moment we are in a good place and we have a good support system.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">View from our living room windows and back patio, Hatea River, Whangarei. The masts in the picture are in the Riverside Drive boatyard/marina where CINNABAR is.<br /><br /><br /><br /></span></td></tr>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-53617455222131795772020-03-23T01:13:00.000-07:002020-03-23T02:50:27.494-07:00A Quick CINNABAR Update <div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We are in Whangarei, New Zealand. We are fine (so far). We apologize for the lack of blog updates but we've been crazy busy putting CINNABAR back together. If you recall, we hauled the boat out of the water one year ago. Since then we, and professional local tradespeople, have been working on her to repair/refit a variety of issues. More on this work later in another post.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With all that is happening in the world regarding the Covid-19 pandemic and b</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">eing away from home we are super concerned for our friends and family back in the states and other places around the world. On one hand there is the feeling of "I want to go home right now!" On the other hand we feel fortunate to be in a country where most people, including the Prime Minister (PM) seem to be sensible and kind. We'll see if those traits manage to be upheld as the health situation worsens here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On 23 February the first known infected person entered New Zealand via airplane. That individual was tested 2 days later and tested positive. Yesterday there were up to 66 tested positive (total so far) and today the official number has reached 102 positives so far. Most of those cases had traveled out of New Zealand, but now (not surprisingly) they are seeing some testing positive that are community infected, i.e. the individuals had not traveled out of country. So far most of the infected seem to be in highly populated areas such as the capital city Auckland. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In our yachting community many of us are returning to our yachts from overseas. Our friends who returned from Italy stayed quarantined on their boat for 3 weeks just to be safe - good for them! In our boatyard/marina some friends made it back from the Netherlands the night before the NZ border closed. They are quarantined on their boat which is out of the water and high on stands. The boatyard installed a Porta-Potty under their boat which only they can use, a wonderfully proactive idea which keeps them out of the public facilities. But we have also heard that some returning yachties are behaving in a cavalier fashion and not respecting the self-isolating as instructed. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's extremely worrisome to know that people in our direct circle of friends could be a health hazard. Especially since most of us are retired, ahem... "older" folks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Today New Zealand PM Jacinda Ardern announced that the entire country would be in lockdown starting Wednesday. For us this means that all the tradespeople and vendors that we utilize will not be available to us for at least 4 weeks.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We're going to miss the help we get from local boat builders. Alister and Tom fit the anchoring hardware onto the sprit.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hopefully we (as in Tom and I only) will be able to keep working on CINNABAR but we won't be able to purchase anything else if we need it until lockdown is over. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We yachties are like migrating birds and here is our migration schedule: 1) typically the yachts sail out of NZ and north to the tropical island groups in <b>May</b> or <b>June</b> when cyclone season ends; 2) then we return to weather-safe NZ (or Australia or somewhere else out of the cyclone belt) when cyclone season begins in <b>November.</b> Tom and I are here on visas which expire on May 30th. Our plans were to sail to Fiji before that but with all the border closures sailing anywhere may not be an option for us this year. CINNABAR also has a visa (of sorts) and hers expires November 15, 2020. (Yes, humans can only stay 3 months and get a special extension for another 3 but boats get TWO YEARS automatically!) If we can't sail to Fiji this year we'll have to get special permission (if possible) for the boat to stay in NZ past November. We're working on this now but Customs and Immigration NZ is SWAMPED with phone calls and email queries. They got over 50,000 calls last Thursday. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All the boats that were planning to sail from the US/Mexico/Panama to French Polynesia this year are having to change their plans. If they haven't left yet they are advised to stay put. Boats in transit will either have to remain in their first port of call (usually The Marquesas) or possibly have to sail directly to Tahiti. No inter-island sailing will be allowed. Our friends already (or still) in French Poly are concerned about their next moves. Currently they cannot leave their boats to go ashore and there is talk about them having to leave their boats in Tahiti (or wherever) and flying home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On March 17 a group of us went to the movies and then an Irish Pub to celebrate St Paddy's Day. As with all over the world, those times have changed. It just took a little longer to get to this island nation.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With fellow yachties at the pub, Tom took the picture.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Today we are scrambling around making lists of everything we think we might need to buy for the boat because tomorrow will be our last opportunity for a month. After that we will either make do with what we have or just wait until we can get boat supplies. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The inconvenience is well worth it to keep us all safe and healthy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">VIRTUAL hugs to you all.</span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-21010927465766227672019-10-31T14:26:00.001-07:002019-11-01T08:12:19.967-07:00March 2019, Diving in Lake and Sky - Lake Taupo New Zealand<div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">OMG Tom what are you doing???? Read on to find out.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia-</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Boo!</b> We are long overdue on a post and even though we've been in the USA since mid June let's look back in time and catch up on some of the things we did in our action-packed week in Lake Taupo, NZ this past March.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>DIVING IN LAKE:</b> In March a group of friends and acquaintances from the USA flew out to New Zealand to compete in an international freshwater spearfishing competition.This competition was put together by our friend Mike McGuire (he and his family own Casa de los Suenos in Baja where we visited during our 3 years in Mexico) and Darren Shields, President of Spearfishing New Zealand (his family owns and runs the <a href="https://www.wettie.co.nz/" target="_blank"><b>WETTIE</b> </a>dive shop out of Auckland). This was the second annual world competition, the first being in 2017, Lake Mead, Nevada, USA.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In the midst of all our boat work in Whangarei we were able to take a week off and drive down to Lake Taupo, located in the middle of the North Island, to rendezvous with the McGuire family (Mike, Stephanie and Savanah), our friends Mati and Tova, and to meet the rest of the divers.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The dive teams from the USA, representing California, Colorado, Hawaii, Utah, etc. who all take themselves way too seriously.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lake Taupo is the largest freshwater lake in New Zealand. It reminded us a lot of Lake Tahoe in California and is, in fact, bigger at 238 square miles compared to Tahoe's 191 square miles of surface area. Lake Taupo fills the caldera left by a massive volcanic eruption 26,500 years ago. Some say Taupo is still active because of all the fumaroles (steam vents) and hot springs around the lake. Technically Taupo is considered "dormant", but most definitely NOT extinct.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Some of us from the USA shared a fabulous house with views of the lake. In the week leading up to the competition the divers went to the lake everyday to scout for fish and practice their free-diving skills.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The competition was basically a catfish cull, trying to rid Lake Taupo of as many invasive catfish as possible. The competitors were only allowed to kill catfish, not any of the trout species in the lake.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The non-divers (Mati, Tova, Stephanie, Tom and I) would either sight-see, do our own thing, or help drive divers to their scouting spots.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia, Mati, Tova and Tom (taking picture) hike up the Waikato river to Huka Falls.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkyR9Z-SOIcreAVksnORQsHthiHbawyu8OCuDNxpbaxFVQodknnThpxifsDJcKQPpPP-6VZFytsoR8SVyb4Dza-GfPPiNPZ-9BMDenCbYdYybghbOFhpmHzxBxg4oV180fhleooDBP4Cr/s1600/IMG_1635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1231" data-original-width="1600" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkyR9Z-SOIcreAVksnORQsHthiHbawyu8OCuDNxpbaxFVQodknnThpxifsDJcKQPpPP-6VZFytsoR8SVyb4Dza-GfPPiNPZ-9BMDenCbYdYybghbOFhpmHzxBxg4oV180fhleooDBP4Cr/s640/IMG_1635.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Waikato river which feeds into the lake is a popular place for kayaking.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGOIrZwDhBMWaTckDnpqnU4__ylODPBvAsg7qdjBoJpYlXzlb2GC3Kauzk5fh4hys-8wx7l7rlivEVepc2pXJj734yvdzPbgEBec_g8F631ZmEZtaQmrxIpKeFWGgIWnbigaKflGGcb4L-/s1600/IMG_0133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="973" data-original-width="1600" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGOIrZwDhBMWaTckDnpqnU4__ylODPBvAsg7qdjBoJpYlXzlb2GC3Kauzk5fh4hys-8wx7l7rlivEVepc2pXJj734yvdzPbgEBec_g8F631ZmEZtaQmrxIpKeFWGgIWnbigaKflGGcb4L-/s640/IMG_0133.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Powerful Huka Falls. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In the evenings Tova, Stephanie and I would coordinate group dinners and many of the other divers would come over to socialize and strategize about the competition. We hosted the USA teams as well as some of the other international divers including a very fun team which had come all the way over from Italy.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_khY7OXnniNLKkD0iKxhYCcLObYKP8fMhKUy4l0Lqr_ayi1a_4qKsjp3zNo2Ptgfzh98pAy77anWrSBP9DywLZ4wRejWMHeJ5mc3M2_PK78WpzqIDQxv321UQvppG3WnDpglLOL8PNrM/s1600/IMG_0139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="973" data-original-width="1600" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_khY7OXnniNLKkD0iKxhYCcLObYKP8fMhKUy4l0Lqr_ayi1a_4qKsjp3zNo2Ptgfzh98pAy77anWrSBP9DywLZ4wRejWMHeJ5mc3M2_PK78WpzqIDQxv321UQvppG3WnDpglLOL8PNrM/s640/IMG_0139.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Post dinner strategizing amongst the divers with Brandi (USA), Tom, Bruno (Italy), Gino and Alberto (IT) talking to Mike (USA).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lake Taupo is a tourist destination and there was plenty for the non-divers to do. One day Mati, Tova and I went on a boat tour to some famous Maori rock carvings. Mati booked us on the Ernest Kemp, a very cool replica steam boat built in the early 1980s as a tourism vessel. It's got all sorts of cool features such as the steering wheel which was a hose-winding reel from an old horse-drawn fire brigade and the steam whistle from an old bush steam locomotive.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iW_UjTKGuzkmqrPZRyXV9-Wk7kst8Xf42_6m_IHMu6raBjqh94KHb_9ZF-SzdYYM7aNAAVOWDbzoOQo6xrftWQ_2DOQ9Q44UxieuNFqFx4QVV6h0fYlp9dWWV2uEGPow7LTvQM0bOwO6/s1600/IMG_0144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 10px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1107" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iW_UjTKGuzkmqrPZRyXV9-Wk7kst8Xf42_6m_IHMu6raBjqh94KHb_9ZF-SzdYYM7aNAAVOWDbzoOQo6xrftWQ_2DOQ9Q44UxieuNFqFx4QVV6h0fYlp9dWWV2uEGPow7LTvQM0bOwO6/s640/IMG_0144.JPG" width="640" /></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The big draw for this tour is the large, spectacular rock carving which towers 10 metres above the water. It took Maori artist Matahi Brightwell and his team of four artists, wearing nothing but goggles and speedos (!) four years to complete the carvings.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOCZXZacpv-ot6nMX31v9ljIRJsq6wb0Xn4_o5B58pzVATVS1Tc6FELDWuZfVShpNxY-XstklPFqoO08SMZKuV2gmEyqrwUXC6EaxhwdztPMGeh510KPlo_6lIsz7JnwOz1qFO9vlP91U/s1600/IMG_0158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1499" data-original-width="1600" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOCZXZacpv-ot6nMX31v9ljIRJsq6wb0Xn4_o5B58pzVATVS1Tc6FELDWuZfVShpNxY-XstklPFqoO08SMZKuV2gmEyqrwUXC6EaxhwdztPMGeh510KPlo_6lIsz7JnwOz1qFO9vlP91U/s640/IMG_0158.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hard to believe this huge rock was carved by hand.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHJHFxX6JsaKj5-Xmb5ODpCj88gL-Cjv-HXWgiZ1xOVqhCllKbayA5VgHGldRHOXY4GWvg7AeEzzG8VpsH3k5dn34SISxOnUWZF1KUOp_R8Tp5p3H8FOQL2H-ZVdOVfv2YmIWSnHS0Bdm9/s1600/IMG_0155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHJHFxX6JsaKj5-Xmb5ODpCj88gL-Cjv-HXWgiZ1xOVqhCllKbayA5VgHGldRHOXY4GWvg7AeEzzG8VpsH3k5dn34SISxOnUWZF1KUOp_R8Tp5p3H8FOQL2H-ZVdOVfv2YmIWSnHS0Bdm9/s640/IMG_0155.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We tried to get Mati to climb the rock in his speedo but he refused. Killjoy!!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The night before the competition began there was an official first-night meet-and-greet and welcoming ceremony.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Divers (and non-divers) mingling before the welcome ceremony.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YhrewVH0NrOFmQRZC7IZOm_imW5S_SmQ3bT5kkkOBGxjNfE44NCpNvZ9QjrVx3u3ZOSroRgyAmX3eENSMafR19AxARWJTdTls6N7OYogn1KDhu20ivVIHeR811VgMKwZ3V3bXcwzxfgw/s1600/IMG_20190308_182020_489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg298EOVE4vKs8KFc7o15pctaVUf5KRvGHXLeiCuq3_bNy-pDbjPRk9xiUdzyLwD4a-IurroJSF3J5TJxFbctKJl4YqEKojtcKgcp2V1b3kFQrYKm8CVKvfdC9tRGFubzxfflRmzOrHyemE/s1600/IMG_20190308_182355_188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1044" data-original-width="1600" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg298EOVE4vKs8KFc7o15pctaVUf5KRvGHXLeiCuq3_bNy-pDbjPRk9xiUdzyLwD4a-IurroJSF3J5TJxFbctKJl4YqEKojtcKgcp2V1b3kFQrYKm8CVKvfdC9tRGFubzxfflRmzOrHyemE/s640/IMG_20190308_182355_188.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia connecting with Paola (Italian diver) and Brunella (Gino's wife).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Darren had arranged for a traditional Maori greeting by some of the local <b><i>Iwi </i></b>("people or "tribe") <i>Ngati Tuwharetoa</i>, and he warned Mike that if he (Mike) broke eye contact with the scary-looking tattooed guy during the greeting he'd get smacked in the head with a stick. Say what? Luckily Mike performed well and NO smacking was involved.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpDCaaE509t9hrPlLSnJV50rXead5Q0wzbxRcXNuF3GATRxyskoXeqdhp6jzCHtB4LwCQrrz6lYi-ZvuISyzIbGZS5_mRacED4NVD8FENP-IJFsxZ9y9K4x5vhgS-jSRhOOec8xQwKZ70/s1600/IMG_0425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpDCaaE509t9hrPlLSnJV50rXead5Q0wzbxRcXNuF3GATRxyskoXeqdhp6jzCHtB4LwCQrrz6lYi-ZvuISyzIbGZS5_mRacED4NVD8FENP-IJFsxZ9y9K4x5vhgS-jSRhOOec8xQwKZ70/s640/IMG_0425.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After some loud and scary posturing outdoors, we followed the greeters into the clubhouse and received a very warm, personal greeting.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Darren, Mike and Mike's dive partner Ralph with the welcoming members of the <i>Ngati Tuwharetoa</i>. This <b><i>Iwi</i></b> still owns the bed of the lake and its tributaries. They grant the public free access for recreational use.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Competition Day #1: Mati, Tova, Stephanie and I enjoyed some more sightseeing while the competition took place, but we had to be back at the clubhouse before the divers returned because Mati was the official Catfish Counter.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtudDBdFnHYIE8rRgMK6nRlTeonxF-p0S4SShHjS2_9IPPp7mFUUSpdFHe-8CD6xtg2pXBy9lrKAgru4pT96JsDAhOivGNzIEaAuhS8UJFza74liltC-W1xbeQ426qIQtqXboXesbZjV2f/s1600/158_Catfishing_13-1600x1067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtudDBdFnHYIE8rRgMK6nRlTeonxF-p0S4SShHjS2_9IPPp7mFUUSpdFHe-8CD6xtg2pXBy9lrKAgru4pT96JsDAhOivGNzIEaAuhS8UJFza74liltC-W1xbeQ426qIQtqXboXesbZjV2f/s640/158_Catfishing_13-1600x1067.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This photo of Mati counting catfish was in a National Geographic article here: <b><u><a href="https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/goodwill-hunting/" target="_blank">GOODWILL HUNTING</a> </u></b></span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">(Photo Richard Robinson)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kathy (from California) and Savanah (Mike's daughter from Colorado) with their catch. They ended up taking 3rd in their division.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Gino and Mario from Italy got a lot! They eventually took 2nd place in their division.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RIydjy6YLBo5KoihPWse42lYFq47GZu3_p_AJqaRgTve55YfArQWaScY5wkER3Z2v9uo-tnXhLv3drFdp6qEmHG_O14SXEgl-cC1hXpaeyiAZu9WWRPx207G0aklVOX9tgV1RdX53cfX/s1600/IMG_1686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RIydjy6YLBo5KoihPWse42lYFq47GZu3_p_AJqaRgTve55YfArQWaScY5wkER3Z2v9uo-tnXhLv3drFdp6qEmHG_O14SXEgl-cC1hXpaeyiAZu9WWRPx207G0aklVOX9tgV1RdX53cfX/s640/IMG_1686.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mike and Ralph, is that all?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Some of the teams got a lot of fish and some got just a few. It turns out that less than a month before there had been another national catfish cull in Lake Taupo which accounted for the dwindling supply of catfish which, I guess, was a good thing for the lake.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Competition Day #2: The second day of competition was jam-packed. First was the actual competition and again the divers were up early for that, the second activity was the weigh-in, and the third activity was the awards ceremony and dinner. Whew!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79SOhjlV16wIU-h0CqrStkM-tHZz3IojwX4w3sFECrI8GqjfKBHQfSzinlZ2_-s6oYsDtsccs0vzw8p5a2k7z_wEFnCyWQgc3RdG93FhyphenhyphenJmlOnD7Sci0CQLtsxlkb6kczlEBciXYZ1nQu/s1600/IMG_1657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1253" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh79SOhjlV16wIU-h0CqrStkM-tHZz3IojwX4w3sFECrI8GqjfKBHQfSzinlZ2_-s6oYsDtsccs0vzw8p5a2k7z_wEFnCyWQgc3RdG93FhyphenhyphenJmlOnD7Sci0CQLtsxlkb6kczlEBciXYZ1nQu/s640/IMG_1657.JPG" width="500" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nat and Moss from NZ got a LOT of fish. I think they took first place.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsUlPRWDGelp0Zc3Bos7Em93BxYSHkSSJ0TIOyqyJPuRGe4I0E1W4wC6ALNMDLkP8UhA2adrbAj6GjXem3SK8XvBlav3_zQJsJkmOSxaVoROV3EOVO1ih3bl61fgbeLfDRohDuMBenwP2/s1600/IMG_1696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsUlPRWDGelp0Zc3Bos7Em93BxYSHkSSJ0TIOyqyJPuRGe4I0E1W4wC6ALNMDLkP8UhA2adrbAj6GjXem3SK8XvBlav3_zQJsJkmOSxaVoROV3EOVO1ih3bl61fgbeLfDRohDuMBenwP2/s640/IMG_1696.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Somehow Mike coerced fellow event-coordinator Darren into this goofy pose.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguatLZHYO2e6iXXwzCh0sxCrYfoSpsQrNGGONEUhKbQYz3KKyYxdex9KgFZOgRs1su1J7TRJQUWieRAXCRYDEt3IDlf7izpdocIRkXdKPpqG5c9MAtETH0DwiCl2arR-fuVtoPZL_1F3Y5/s1600/IMG_20190309_164759_234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguatLZHYO2e6iXXwzCh0sxCrYfoSpsQrNGGONEUhKbQYz3KKyYxdex9KgFZOgRs1su1J7TRJQUWieRAXCRYDEt3IDlf7izpdocIRkXdKPpqG5c9MAtETH0DwiCl2arR-fuVtoPZL_1F3Y5/s640/IMG_20190309_164759_234.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The tubs of catfish were taken to local farms to be used as fertilizer.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHg3yQEAW6dIiCOCvvy0ADcxdV3oPWU_7mjMvV1IveKCTbuFGVGIbSlHxhqmAMcGxOkiv2WiFxTeUGT0PSChkl_e7K0J9XGyUU5JmQhWp_UNygEYrlUROK_w5vhJVf35OAIjelTQbtuEim/s1600/IMG_1737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1044" data-original-width="1600" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHg3yQEAW6dIiCOCvvy0ADcxdV3oPWU_7mjMvV1IveKCTbuFGVGIbSlHxhqmAMcGxOkiv2WiFxTeUGT0PSChkl_e7K0J9XGyUU5JmQhWp_UNygEYrlUROK_w5vhJVf35OAIjelTQbtuEim/s640/IMG_1737.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We say goodbye to Team Italia</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_B5GjLiHUuARLZLJFn-alDv13nvovV2hYvjD1lIwBmWR_gTGtQDPnc9kWv5zMty7-LQA1nrx967uilxNFqRPrkY2ndbprI5bpjUI0bUzb7QOiMHzjBZawW9ysTM3djDNQ97iTGrfbv5FE/s1600/IMG_1742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_B5GjLiHUuARLZLJFn-alDv13nvovV2hYvjD1lIwBmWR_gTGtQDPnc9kWv5zMty7-LQA1nrx967uilxNFqRPrkY2ndbprI5bpjUI0bUzb7QOiMHzjBZawW9ysTM3djDNQ97iTGrfbv5FE/s640/IMG_1742.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Team USA (and a couple of interlopers) at the awards dinner. We took home a few trophies.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>DIVING IN SKY:</b> A day or so before we were supposed to depart Lake Taupo Tom had gone for a run and discovered a couple of tandem sky-diving companies at the nearby airport. Somehow he got it into his head that jumping out of a plane would be a fun thing for him and Savanah, aged 17, to do. Tom didn't really think Savanah would agree, and mom Stephanie gave her approval because she didn't really think Savanah would do it either. But...on the morning of our departure from Lake Taupo Savanah announced she was up for it!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom couldn't back out now. We all drove over to the airport and <a href="https://www.taupotandemskydiving.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: yellow;">Taupo Tandem Skydiving</span></b></a> so Tom and Savanah could sign up, do their pre-jump briefing/training and get geared up. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmNoPqUOe6kFyhDOhPD4W5WD8q0cE41bI6HTi1wWlZEwvVkUj05srlyJMrsEDWKCDNYtUTjkMsnK4tYa7LCY0lC7jRFJQblrwHKqYv7dkUZSdHXboxwHNX5lx4d059Feu0ZCgOyGgP-UA/s1600/IMG_1743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1600" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmNoPqUOe6kFyhDOhPD4W5WD8q0cE41bI6HTi1wWlZEwvVkUj05srlyJMrsEDWKCDNYtUTjkMsnK4tYa7LCY0lC7jRFJQblrwHKqYv7dkUZSdHXboxwHNX5lx4d059Feu0ZCgOyGgP-UA/s640/IMG_1743.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mom and dad signed the waivers. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWUXgx4w1gi5KmYnZn4FqHWPjbkZw6ekEgzRwxo2qLYfy-bGnY6gGyI-WOulde7EBtyYp8PX9Zi1hgqeq29DXVdn7VYC60kP7nWRYhCdMrDyoui47W-jRR2qdURbElC0tLh86ChzzwwaN/s1600/IMG_1752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWUXgx4w1gi5KmYnZn4FqHWPjbkZw6ekEgzRwxo2qLYfy-bGnY6gGyI-WOulde7EBtyYp8PX9Zi1hgqeq29DXVdn7VYC60kP7nWRYhCdMrDyoui47W-jRR2qdURbElC0tLh86ChzzwwaN/s640/IMG_1752.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Savanah, Tom and their "handlers" took the training very seriously. Joking aside, the Taupo Tandem Skydiving operation was very professional and impressive.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The plane was full of jumpers with most of them jumping out at 15,000 feet, but Tom and Savanah went for the 18,500 foot jump with over 75 seconds of freefall. Yikes!! (In the USA the highest one can jump from is 18,000 feet.)</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxTHzMP64sNvcgICw8Kiv-PBBt9tPrvlFS84qCNzEh_TnMz3DrueaQ1GDWZzUUiHhPJWF-Op6qFOhqJhzMjhOtnDqyVabAt114SOpe39LrIMk5OlbWBGxzepx8b3nsxK6hfI1higRmyntg/s1600/G0058459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxTHzMP64sNvcgICw8Kiv-PBBt9tPrvlFS84qCNzEh_TnMz3DrueaQ1GDWZzUUiHhPJWF-Op6qFOhqJhzMjhOtnDqyVabAt114SOpe39LrIMk5OlbWBGxzepx8b3nsxK6hfI1higRmyntg/s640/G0058459.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">So high that oxygen was required.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mike, Stephanie and I waited on the ground for what felt like a long time as we watched jumper after jumper open their chutes. Finally the last two tandem pairs jumped out, first Tom and then Savanah.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always nice when the chute opens.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw98Aty3RPJkm7BoRr0FeKCYMjdQOoX-y7OjvD986APT8FXIN2yg9s3WdiX7YOPP320Hb9Lhi5zBl2CReIHkyEZUTTJk5S0uQCXW8f87bjmNI8l6GYDIdt7h3k1RJjCLbdZJ3clkwPy388/s1600/G0068580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw98Aty3RPJkm7BoRr0FeKCYMjdQOoX-y7OjvD986APT8FXIN2yg9s3WdiX7YOPP320Hb9Lhi5zBl2CReIHkyEZUTTJk5S0uQCXW8f87bjmNI8l6GYDIdt7h3k1RJjCLbdZJ3clkwPy388/s640/G0068580.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Aiming for the landing site.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVipeHEk0WpESCHQbfX3qtIHUNl8TMEbHLXLZxP26Rsl0RuxWOWuGXenLArZakZI_xaPnVSgdUVa6Wm0KXChjqyz7_lD7C-i36LugpgVw6XJqMp1eD4M7bJkBuAnkklihABaHckMvZ2Qzs/s1600/IMG_1769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVipeHEk0WpESCHQbfX3qtIHUNl8TMEbHLXLZxP26Rsl0RuxWOWuGXenLArZakZI_xaPnVSgdUVa6Wm0KXChjqyz7_lD7C-i36LugpgVw6XJqMp1eD4M7bJkBuAnkklihABaHckMvZ2Qzs/s640/IMG_1769.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">From the perspective of those on the ground.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w5l7kpER5LuOFeFHJkmsQtovKXlpOj1Rx3vXZIuaGoWbN8PG65vjTIZKYrpp1NC2X7U5vR0C69NfMXo1PkakrpQYYL9XoH5NKJs8Ebx5iIMZW7_wE3X5m0AJ6OUA-PVy0O0lClPFAXk2/s1600/G0068657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w5l7kpER5LuOFeFHJkmsQtovKXlpOj1Rx3vXZIuaGoWbN8PG65vjTIZKYrpp1NC2X7U5vR0C69NfMXo1PkakrpQYYL9XoH5NKJs8Ebx5iIMZW7_wE3X5m0AJ6OUA-PVy0O0lClPFAXk2/s640/G0068657.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Excited much?</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbCvnRmadvHUD0gokMK9K3hJRPBFNoqh12j4CwNCe36_MyqkVtnhUxnGgn_9VfBr4J9DA-m_DIn5Ddxmqv8uBjFRxKwKLE40vNdMpFFejvyS9ydSRtWlsJ0ZJub1TeIgD7_lxXdLbxW_7h/s1600/IMG_1782.skydivingTaupo.Savanah.TC+%2528Large%2529+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbCvnRmadvHUD0gokMK9K3hJRPBFNoqh12j4CwNCe36_MyqkVtnhUxnGgn_9VfBr4J9DA-m_DIn5Ddxmqv8uBjFRxKwKLE40vNdMpFFejvyS9ydSRtWlsJ0ZJub1TeIgD7_lxXdLbxW_7h/s640/IMG_1782.skydivingTaupo.Savanah.TC+%2528Large%2529+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Both down safe and sound.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7h9TYxwvfW1AmhdoWVVPE4nS84Oz_EBZresEf-rpYLi0_-7xxEGz1QfnmK4UG06on8rf4kKkaecFu8S2dmx0PqmKHTcuKXBh6t84vryY23erioCP-YBUUsD6jpBLmExkSsOWUcBaBAWF/s1600/IMG_20190311_113623_220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="974" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7h9TYxwvfW1AmhdoWVVPE4nS84Oz_EBZresEf-rpYLi0_-7xxEGz1QfnmK4UG06on8rf4kKkaecFu8S2dmx0PqmKHTcuKXBh6t84vryY23erioCP-YBUUsD6jpBLmExkSsOWUcBaBAWF/s640/IMG_20190311_113623_220.jpg" width="388" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Congratulations!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Needless to say both Savanah and Tom were "walking on air" after their exhilarating jump. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">See Tom's Skydiving video <b><a href="https://taupotandemskydiving.zenfolio.com/p214474437/hc6259f80#hc6259f80" target="_blank">HERE. </a></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE:</b> Wouldn't you think that jumping out of a plane would be enough excitement for one day? Well...it wasn't even noon yet, and even though we had to drive to Auckland that day, the world famous Tongariro Crossing hike, aka "New Zealand's Best Day Hike" wasn't THAT far out of the way, so of course Mike, Tom and Savanah decided they had to do it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The trek is 12 miles long, covers volcanic landscape and typically takes 6-8 hours to complete. Stephanie and I dropped them off at the trailhead around 1:30 p.m. leaving them maybe just enough time to do the hike. They had flashlights and headlamps just in case.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozDZUlTOsA3D4CxJ4g2fm_9hFmhUqybuWmhpZ3H90FAn2DDv58w119f_wXsE5m5B0Vw8L2UrBdTarPXiBzudi0wRMSkMwPxIGizXJrW3-xTBUbt0LIFH_-TcapWXJzfEOTUKqeXXLhgps/s1600/IMG_1811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1305" data-original-width="1600" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozDZUlTOsA3D4CxJ4g2fm_9hFmhUqybuWmhpZ3H90FAn2DDv58w119f_wXsE5m5B0Vw8L2UrBdTarPXiBzudi0wRMSkMwPxIGizXJrW3-xTBUbt0LIFH_-TcapWXJzfEOTUKqeXXLhgps/s640/IMG_1811.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mike at the top of the trail.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSyTOXkyKK_RXScDSVa-Djp8Xy4dgqClSGgrjyFQINiTjECKkNcv0MfxqBoen5LkSB_sO2K3NRU-raUlXdBBkZmqvo36mLVKJq6zYlhPn2PJjT4HNKukLXDo3SiT2KHcP8T7HU7WEGHAt/s1600/IMG_1796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1600" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSyTOXkyKK_RXScDSVa-Djp8Xy4dgqClSGgrjyFQINiTjECKkNcv0MfxqBoen5LkSB_sO2K3NRU-raUlXdBBkZmqvo36mLVKJq6zYlhPn2PJjT4HNKukLXDo3SiT2KHcP8T7HU7WEGHAt/s640/IMG_1796.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">What a view!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7KdfIcnLlotVA0qoUR_icIaw99iSLjxdDArjBdU_6Cmjxe9olY5c2LkRDMAzSLCG8hZYV7f27q3xbpgaGPohsXDDfmQby1f8gmzpgfoyugL-OOX5HtwuUyhezwmfhgRPLLns-m3euwiq/s1600/IMG_1827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS7KdfIcnLlotVA0qoUR_icIaw99iSLjxdDArjBdU_6Cmjxe9olY5c2LkRDMAzSLCG8hZYV7f27q3xbpgaGPohsXDDfmQby1f8gmzpgfoyugL-OOX5HtwuUyhezwmfhgRPLLns-m3euwiq/s640/IMG_1827.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Savanah and Tom feeling pretty hyped up after their jump. Check out the fumaroles (steam vents) in the background.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCPbRT7b_LgygmRWUcifh3IX2kQAe66MKM4R9PQpDW81kC33paqH8KwHvUYGdrRsRP-ePqcca0nEGgpebEiBcjP8hvnR2Gt1ruUcev_VeB96SQvva3Vw7_MlRutcFwJrc0oIGae-etN1l/s1600/IMG_1848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1334" data-original-width="1600" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCPbRT7b_LgygmRWUcifh3IX2kQAe66MKM4R9PQpDW81kC33paqH8KwHvUYGdrRsRP-ePqcca0nEGgpebEiBcjP8hvnR2Gt1ruUcev_VeB96SQvva3Vw7_MlRutcFwJrc0oIGae-etN1l/s640/IMG_1848.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Catch your breath because you'll be jogging the rest of the way!<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1DiZtv7MmfaICTs2B6E776aUdWkv1-n1SpKmwSLxzfefATmwsESwNI5TDMziZRYOS9X4KdV3E61axuteoZIwRBEI4ZlWnQZ6aIhPLuobpyeEqxA6LPLEF1aN3Iok8fNEF4WlJdZVpL-bI/s1600/IMG_1858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1132" data-original-width="1600" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1DiZtv7MmfaICTs2B6E776aUdWkv1-n1SpKmwSLxzfefATmwsESwNI5TDMziZRYOS9X4KdV3E61axuteoZIwRBEI4ZlWnQZ6aIhPLuobpyeEqxA6LPLEF1aN3Iok8fNEF4WlJdZVpL-bI/s640/IMG_1858.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Savanah takes the "Move quickly" sign to heart.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While Tom, Mike and Savanah hiked Stephanie and I did a bit of sightseeing and then drove to the end of the trail to wait for them. We watched literally hundreds of hikers come streaming down the trail and board the buses bound for the trailhead parking lot. As time passed fewer and fewer hikers straggled out, the sun got low, and we hoped our three would come out before sunset. They eventually came down the trail tired (they had to jog the last few miles) but happy because they had missed the crowds.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnARrrMqNNVBvuHUtm8b3LArQumVu-8ityk-5W1H1sJDdJQufatHUYe07hjhbIFmthIBfI74acccnCch7PlTP0TWfotq03oP4PRFjo2hA61NZ7zhpLvfWI98YZkHeLBX2r9_4XklPrSGhc/s1600/IMG_1862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="1600" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnARrrMqNNVBvuHUtm8b3LArQumVu-8ityk-5W1H1sJDdJQufatHUYe07hjhbIFmthIBfI74acccnCch7PlTP0TWfotq03oP4PRFjo2hA61NZ7zhpLvfWI98YZkHeLBX2r9_4XklPrSGhc/s640/IMG_1862.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia and Stephanie once again waiting patiently.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The sun was setting and we still had to drive back to Taupo (1 hr.) to pick up our car and then drive to Auckland (4 hrs) for the night. Tom and I had to drive home (to Whangarei) the next a.m. as we were scheduled to haul CINNABAR out of the water the following day. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The McGuires would stay in Auckland and continue sightseeing for a few days before driving up to visit us in Whangarei.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All in all it was a fun and action-packed week in a stunning location.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">More Photos Here: <b><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/pQHMoycX1hGbv3mVA" target="_blank">TAUPO</a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Unless noted otherwise, all photos by Sylvia, Tom, Mike and possibly others.</span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-36686835774643658172019-04-21T15:26:00.000-07:002019-10-17T15:20:27.177-07:00Winding up 2018 in New Zealand<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLqgaSpigfc2iQismGaAQsqGdybZGhDUZfMRJ8aZhg7JEmkp5OV3FgLf35-b6J4y-PLU4okXUFA2ZNYsNysSAm_KC4Bh-b4cLak2OoLBAZ9DwRH7uBnOg50sFo2SyJ3emfq082So_lic/s1600/IMG_1434.mangawhaiHeadBeach.+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLqgaSpigfc2iQismGaAQsqGdybZGhDUZfMRJ8aZhg7JEmkp5OV3FgLf35-b6J4y-PLU4okXUFA2ZNYsNysSAm_KC4Bh-b4cLak2OoLBAZ9DwRH7uBnOg50sFo2SyJ3emfq082So_lic/s640/IMG_1434.mangawhaiHeadBeach.+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ahoy from New Zealand. Enjoying Mangawhai Beach on the way home from Auckland.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We've been incredibly busy so this post is a bit late and we're playing catch-up. The following is how we closed out 2018.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After arriving in New Zealand we were able to spend a few days and nights with the crew enjoying Northland New Zealand before they had to fly out. We were fortunate that the crew didn't immediately want to jump ship (it happens!) but instead chose to hang out, rent a car (thanks Torben!) and take us sightseeing.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OjZcmVGJ_c1u-U2gHu1aZGLkqSXqMvEOdddlsor4KYxmxLxEKASgFU0KvVu1ImJBtdqya2MegooKCCsufh7RunREfLPOnD6y7k8POGcjNfW-b008EMGV87dfzD3r8Tbz3gCybn1J3Jmu/s1600/IMG_1372+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="878" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OjZcmVGJ_c1u-U2gHu1aZGLkqSXqMvEOdddlsor4KYxmxLxEKASgFU0KvVu1ImJBtdqya2MegooKCCsufh7RunREfLPOnD6y7k8POGcjNfW-b008EMGV87dfzD3r8Tbz3gCybn1J3Jmu/s640/IMG_1372+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="558" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We walked across the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We went to the beach and watched surfers.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Of course we had to research historic buildings on the way home.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While in Tonga the crew purchased some very cool shirts to use as CINNABAR team shirts, then they surprised me with the shirts. Tom added some graphics with fabric paint <i>et voila</i>...</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOFGtQw3y1xroGwfWnIM7WAZbNs80Fu9JOfBFBz-FluD6bpBodGdid8BhJDrfWDqdXo3zkd8ePB_5T7AwSXEQ_NxIRpVy9RPe7l41lhvC01rPyWC-EZmZLaiIuBjFc_H_FXTAauIc6ISH/s1600/IMG_1376+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOFGtQw3y1xroGwfWnIM7WAZbNs80Fu9JOfBFBz-FluD6bpBodGdid8BhJDrfWDqdXo3zkd8ePB_5T7AwSXEQ_NxIRpVy9RPe7l41lhvC01rPyWC-EZmZLaiIuBjFc_H_FXTAauIc6ISH/s640/IMG_1376+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom's art work - "CINNABAR express 52...To N.Z."</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01HksOJib4PcLm0G4UKKc41o9S2obe800qknXquJp5adE82w1NmqwRRL6QwBSEqEtl595VR5qbL-mkJ_HlAjJFBPQ7Xo8NwwVNXAqB0g-k6ozQv7dqbcSq36dvGVm2kx4DZzwhxC_GV8x/s1600/IMG_1377+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="898" height="546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh01HksOJib4PcLm0G4UKKc41o9S2obe800qknXquJp5adE82w1NmqwRRL6QwBSEqEtl595VR5qbL-mkJ_HlAjJFBPQ7Xo8NwwVNXAqB0g-k6ozQv7dqbcSq36dvGVm2kx4DZzwhxC_GV8x/s640/IMG_1377+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Phil lookin' good sporting the team shirt before he heads to Auckland.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Phil left us to visit the South Island and the rest of us spent another day visiting Russell, once known as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russell,_New_Zealand" target="_blank">The Hellhole of the Pacific</a>. Russell was the first land-based whaling station in NZ (all whaling was previously done from ships) and you can imagine how rowdy and lawless it must have been.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeBew0evSSmdb_4xjzAzHBGXREwHokBcWRqXXSRQuluQ_MfH5WCBnS96rAN6WwcSnThj9Ev6iD4qNK7ffR-GMbOVqvuaK272BmcUcaUL4B8CNCb7c1KaEgjUXlfxEOUaVefMD8j2Kn3Htq/s1600/IMG_1379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeBew0evSSmdb_4xjzAzHBGXREwHokBcWRqXXSRQuluQ_MfH5WCBnS96rAN6WwcSnThj9Ev6iD4qNK7ffR-GMbOVqvuaK272BmcUcaUL4B8CNCb7c1KaEgjUXlfxEOUaVefMD8j2Kn3Htq/s640/IMG_1379.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We take the car ferry to Russell</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDJmyfDxQdiRWHPcQeMfAl5YmDzPq5oHAPhqAX0zizekukRknNpVtFa6f6hayl_5ea-UM8JsOW53c79MMocSM1GTdvGs6HnJHwNCZ9W8a6i03ZqKk-o2zJ1MKb97SxpVIsv7zpkMIgwph/s1600/IMG_1392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDJmyfDxQdiRWHPcQeMfAl5YmDzPq5oHAPhqAX0zizekukRknNpVtFa6f6hayl_5ea-UM8JsOW53c79MMocSM1GTdvGs6HnJHwNCZ9W8a6i03ZqKk-o2zJ1MKb97SxpVIsv7zpkMIgwph/s640/IMG_1392.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Russell is now a lovely tourist destination featuring a HUGE Moreton Bay fig tree in front of the old police station. The Duke of Marlborough hotel is in the background and we had lunch at the beachside table.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuhIBsCv8EI_HMwvv63UznU_1IdRUjwJb-0Dpttrv1JN32oux__vgNrv2yXAaIrn4N93wJkCHSww7Zg7I9yrGQNjiUDKaQfisPB0vSLY_SqoPuPFVMHuyvcCz5PUCwtyOfirMaPHQh4hX/s1600/IMG_1390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuhIBsCv8EI_HMwvv63UznU_1IdRUjwJb-0Dpttrv1JN32oux__vgNrv2yXAaIrn4N93wJkCHSww7Zg7I9yrGQNjiUDKaQfisPB0vSLY_SqoPuPFVMHuyvcCz5PUCwtyOfirMaPHQh4hX/s640/IMG_1390.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had lunch at the historic Duke of Marlborough hotel which had roomfuls of wonderful old pictures.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Torben and Judy did a few more touristy things before they had to fly out from Auckland.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3ndeWsohqIdLbln5pwMCM2KRgiakmiAN5end2jZwTm4wZ0I01eBrBPPt6YqUbCMohDzcGwDVDyVWchrIZzlEwpZ5GEYusAu1cmoVdEbAEgluCKFzyYETpPeGPYPxYpATIfKQaJ2NKguh/s1600/20181119_163736+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1366" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3ndeWsohqIdLbln5pwMCM2KRgiakmiAN5end2jZwTm4wZ0I01eBrBPPt6YqUbCMohDzcGwDVDyVWchrIZzlEwpZ5GEYusAu1cmoVdEbAEgluCKFzyYETpPeGPYPxYpATIfKQaJ2NKguh/s640/20181119_163736+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">View of Whangarei from nearby Mount Parihaka (photo by Judy)<br />(270 degree vista; 1 hour loop trail from Town Basin Marina)</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZY3V0Gl6UuJoAvaN08gvUpXtZtButvYrr2IFSbfJ4O87i9UHr3Z_iZ78MbkNQOIsK0fWmmo_8qOLeWj0C-Sja_Bhtq1bFaFYBeBeo6YrI8y2x4V6OpYGMmg0rZ5sPm5nRssFm5ltjIU/s1600/20181127_185155.dumpTrump+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9na0z8h-ZDZMbHtb20BnnhsrwAzhqJURK1tCHiU38cN0zxiKp8l-praxfwNTmBHl0ujdf2nZ-pUjC9dVRNwmMlGjytdkmbj9JNWaRQZcILxr0hbsbzPZxJGKRwbd1a8M8jLVAbie7vE8/s1600/GOPR4509.hogJobRunParihakaWhagarei.NZ.+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9na0z8h-ZDZMbHtb20BnnhsrwAzhqJURK1tCHiU38cN0zxiKp8l-praxfwNTmBHl0ujdf2nZ-pUjC9dVRNwmMlGjytdkmbj9JNWaRQZcILxr0hbsbzPZxJGKRwbd1a8M8jLVAbie7vE8/s640/GOPR4509.hogJobRunParihakaWhagarei.NZ.+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 14.4px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom on the local Mount Parihaka Trail, doing the NZ version of the annual Thanksgiving Day Hog Jog. Hilly trail ("tracks" in NZ), forest, creek, waterfall, and at night, the slope behind is full of blue-light glow worms!</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZY3V0Gl6UuJoAvaN08gvUpXtZtButvYrr2IFSbfJ4O87i9UHr3Z_iZ78MbkNQOIsK0fWmmo_8qOLeWj0C-Sja_Bhtq1bFaFYBeBeo6YrI8y2x4V6OpYGMmg0rZ5sPm5nRssFm5ltjIU/s1600/20181127_185155.dumpTrump+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Kiwis have a great sense of humor and keep up with major current events in the U.S. They also have excellent local microbrews. One place combined all of the above into a cheeky, timely, and delicious pain reliever.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZY3V0Gl6UuJoAvaN08gvUpXtZtButvYrr2IFSbfJ4O87i9UHr3Z_iZ78MbkNQOIsK0fWmmo_8qOLeWj0C-Sja_Bhtq1bFaFYBeBeo6YrI8y2x4V6OpYGMmg0rZ5sPm5nRssFm5ltjIU/s1600/20181127_185155.dumpTrump+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZY3V0Gl6UuJoAvaN08gvUpXtZtButvYrr2IFSbfJ4O87i9UHr3Z_iZ78MbkNQOIsK0fWmmo_8qOLeWj0C-Sja_Bhtq1bFaFYBeBeo6YrI8y2x4V6OpYGMmg0rZ5sPm5nRssFm5ltjIU/s640/20181127_185155.dumpTrump+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Local NZ Brew. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmGum_sfksSPce4RNuDYgy8Mgg-30py_pfBJo-ceoFdEKlrDCwDWDrIwx8HHhb0uyNc1bXULB-W4seKEh-N5_y3NB7KoV4PxObwElUT8HoThrQ2wFForNn01n3QZogh1EubeVrXY9880/s1600/20181127_185420+%2528Large%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxmGum_sfksSPce4RNuDYgy8Mgg-30py_pfBJo-ceoFdEKlrDCwDWDrIwx8HHhb0uyNc1bXULB-W4seKEh-N5_y3NB7KoV4PxObwElUT8HoThrQ2wFForNn01n3QZogh1EubeVrXY9880/s640/20181127_185420+%2528Large%2529.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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MYWGA Beer (Make Your World Great Again - we need a hat, yes?)</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSWe9Y3ikJupeQJ1LPTZXEcGtnoyD9ATSnlrym8KFn0omR7x6Xr3-LrpaqVPAcXGpdKv0LeTeYr9h8VsFmna2O6V2vFHKjRqo7QEC0Z3vQ4TeoyB0oqGapNpW4WahaZr-1HQkYWYPUtqY/s1600/GOPR4502.hateaLoopParkTrackBridge+%2528Large%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSWe9Y3ikJupeQJ1LPTZXEcGtnoyD9ATSnlrym8KFn0omR7x6Xr3-LrpaqVPAcXGpdKv0LeTeYr9h8VsFmna2O6V2vFHKjRqo7QEC0Z3vQ4TeoyB0oqGapNpW4WahaZr-1HQkYWYPUtqY/s640/GOPR4502.hateaLoopParkTrackBridge+%2528Large%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">It's true - New Zealand is overflowing with beauty. This is an ordinary scene on the local river loop track, right in the center of town (Whangarei).</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: left;">Over the next few weeks we re-connected with friends from the past years in French Polynesia and made many new friends.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyaw1EHZDRylTGAdMICSBPWjOqB1T3H1gPfC0gRn4Pz6BkrmOf4_yNNFXf84svq8XoG-8eM3kRHOhl6Apytbe91prR3XvVXb-GelT61CdmYclL2dQn3ECQaO0XoxMHJuAGbd2opIQYLeBf/s1600/IMG_20181217_182016_051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1433" data-original-width="1600" height="572" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyaw1EHZDRylTGAdMICSBPWjOqB1T3H1gPfC0gRn4Pz6BkrmOf4_yNNFXf84svq8XoG-8eM3kRHOhl6Apytbe91prR3XvVXb-GelT61CdmYclL2dQn3ECQaO0XoxMHJuAGbd2opIQYLeBf/s640/IMG_20181217_182016_051.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The yacht DESIDERATA (Scottish) hosted a huge 60th Scottish-themed birthday party with bagpipes, food, haggis and whiskey. The entire marina was invited.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Amidst the socializing we still had to find time to fit some boat projects into our schedule.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSq8_dEvYuJjXlMhhN7HEgWUGHFVwhqIRLOqWsTRsMlKRetBcPOgru3rPdxMSZpmS4UceFCTQk3ak7BQEyQSdthG9XVn7oB5aNIO-Gj_TXYFpGyMnp2Uum_lwADTMJGCeynUNBTdsUwXEN/s1600/IMG_1421+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSq8_dEvYuJjXlMhhN7HEgWUGHFVwhqIRLOqWsTRsMlKRetBcPOgru3rPdxMSZpmS4UceFCTQk3ak7BQEyQSdthG9XVn7oB5aNIO-Gj_TXYFpGyMnp2Uum_lwADTMJGCeynUNBTdsUwXEN/s640/IMG_1421+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hatch gasket repair/replacement, couldn't get the darn frame apart! But Tom finally figured out a way.(2 days, 2 winches, Dyneema lines, steady pressure, lots of Kroil (creeping oil), gentle prying).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Whangarei really celebrates their holidays and the Christmas spirit was strong. Not only was the Town Basin thoroughly decorated including a 30' tall Christmas tree, the Marina had a boat-decorating competition and some of the boats took it very seriously. Every time someone added a significant decoration their neighbor would try to outdo them.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IZUJgJ6a4uW-FglMHj23liXmGgrWTNUc1Cz7nIrvjnNZ5lHF0A-gWCU7shFRf0mN2WU_RVhq9nwALXEdFZNlBhYS5OfgqnVGWxS3fQy1SXwsPNVQTs2JGu6baT0cEh-ZJDPS9QT5ypzp/s1600/IMG_0122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="933" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IZUJgJ6a4uW-FglMHj23liXmGgrWTNUc1Cz7nIrvjnNZ5lHF0A-gWCU7shFRf0mN2WU_RVhq9nwALXEdFZNlBhYS5OfgqnVGWxS3fQy1SXwsPNVQTs2JGu6baT0cEh-ZJDPS9QT5ypzp/s640/IMG_0122.JPG" width="628" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This boat's one of two Christmas trees was on the bow. The other was at the top of the mast.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPSKexgS_5PfXI0HIuPDP5dGqAQVU7MUwyVFhz7kLTqggMVkwPkpGnpxhv_BhF3HP3sKZPsY960h2QlDKMJYiOkjtgCMhRwNDK8QIDoVyMEW5xo4Edr-WtSuCZJ7g0ODqLmLayDs5junK/s1600/IMG_0123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1483" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPSKexgS_5PfXI0HIuPDP5dGqAQVU7MUwyVFhz7kLTqggMVkwPkpGnpxhv_BhF3HP3sKZPsY960h2QlDKMJYiOkjtgCMhRwNDK8QIDoVyMEW5xo4Edr-WtSuCZJ7g0ODqLmLayDs5junK/s640/IMG_0123.JPG" width="592" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was a very social time, there were Christmas pot-lucks in addition to the weekly happy hours on the floating barge. December is summertime in NZ so our New Year's Eve pot-luck and BBQ was enjoyed in shorts and flip flops.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">An international group of American, Canadian, Scottish, English, and Swedish.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After dinner we went back to the Scottish boat for a big New Year's blow-out with full Scottish traditions to ring in 2019.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>1 January 2019 </b>- Even after the huge after-midnight party a group of us managed to get up and go to the Highland Games in nearby Waipu for yet another dose of Scottish culture. Much of New Zealand was settled by the Scottish and Waipu in particular is proud of their Scottish heritage.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAJZhTKCX_EybfARFCngyonNiXbSnJH9dZeW4AtJb4vHyT5oMwFxws-bQJUM-usYyv_0Gk84PDqHHT_NyY3arLrSt0jhF9KAwYgaBF74Xj1gndv6fOIX8MbHLJrmEkgPl-I4QilsaLcEH/s1600/IMG_20190101_123942_932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAJZhTKCX_EybfARFCngyonNiXbSnJH9dZeW4AtJb4vHyT5oMwFxws-bQJUM-usYyv_0Gk84PDqHHT_NyY3arLrSt0jhF9KAwYgaBF74Xj1gndv6fOIX8MbHLJrmEkgPl-I4QilsaLcEH/s640/IMG_20190101_123942_932.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Look how tiny some of those dancers are! But they took their dancing seriously.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Welcome 2019! And with that I think we can take a break from all things Scottish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In 2019 we were looking forward to some much-needed spa treatment for CINNABAR and a March rendezvous in Lake Taupo with some friends from the states. More about that adventure coming soon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo Album: <b><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/9fi5wEuMMJvhEwfr9" target="_blank">WHANGAREI 2018</a></b></span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-27638242230265808242019-02-28T15:05:00.000-08:002019-02-28T15:53:01.493-08:00Tonga to New Zealand ("Tongatapu to Tutukaka") via Minerva - With Crew!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPTPfO77mi-t9BQNtSsSvQRzNyLwqwAzaHGqBe_1rsVNSI8mo3Xo7XejBxi8n2f6hS6bLFXiJ4J_aa4c_u8cfTkOisURHTrf_TkJslseIl3YGmC02dg0dfBeFjSDlr6XS_oYt7hXrNDj0/s1600/soPacMap.NZ.Cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="1217" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPTPfO77mi-t9BQNtSsSvQRzNyLwqwAzaHGqBe_1rsVNSI8mo3Xo7XejBxi8n2f6hS6bLFXiJ4J_aa4c_u8cfTkOisURHTrf_TkJslseIl3YGmC02dg0dfBeFjSDlr6XS_oYt7hXrNDj0/s640/soPacMap.NZ.Cropped.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Moving West:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/palmerston-atoll-visited-only-by-boat.html" target="_blank">Leg 1 Raiatea, French Polynesia to Palmerston</a>, Cook Is. (Sept 23-28), 675 nm<br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/beveridge-reef-submerged-mountain.html" target="_blank">Leg 2 To Beveridge Reef</a> (Oct 5-7), 288 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/12/niue-tiny-island-nation.html" target="_blank">Leg 3 to Niue</a> (Oct 8-9), 142 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2019/02/the-kingdom-of-tonga.html" target="_blank">Leg 4 To Vava'u, N. Tonga (Oct 12-14)</a> 245 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2019/02/the-kingdom-of-tonga.html" target="_blank">Leg 5 To Nuku'alofa, S. Tonga (Oct 31-Nov 1)</a> 168 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: yellow;">Leg 6 To Minerva Reef (Nov 7-8) 258 nm</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><u><b style="background-color: yellow;">Leg 7 To Opua, New Zealand, (Nov 10-14) 787nm</b></u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: yellow;">Total 2563 nm </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(by Sylvia) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">When we were planning our 1100 nm passage from Tonga to New Zealand, I was concerned because the window between the time our crew arrived in Tonga (4 Nov) and their flight out of NZ (19 Nov) was quite narrow. Considering the trip takes about a week that only left a week of wiggle room to wait for our perfect weather window. My concern: we might have to leave in less-than-desirable conditions to make sure we got the crew back to NZ in time. We had spoken to plenty of sailors who had done the trip earlier in the season and their conditions ranged from nasty to dead-calm-motoring. Hmmmph, we didn't really want either of those.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Well, I worried for naught. While in Tonga both Tom and Torben had been checking the weather for days and it looked like we were going to get an absolutely perfect weather window, at least for the first few days. Hooray!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Weather/Routing:</b> Normal convention is to:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Depart Tonga on the backside of a passing High</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sail 250 nm WSW to Minerva Reef and re-evaluate the weather</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Continue if wx looks good and can cross the remaining 800 nm to NZ before the next Low arrives</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">If wx looks bad, wait it out in the fairly protected and safe Minerva Reef until the favorable weather window.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Depart Minerva and sail (600 nm) to an "aim point" 300 nm straight North of NZ (Cape Reinga). This is somewhat westerly and adds extra distance, but it enables a good (bearing off) sailing angle if bad wx arrives from the W to SW.</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As it turns out, we did depart and follow behind a High pressure centered over NZ. This High left flat seas in front of us and the wind filled in from the SE, giving us really nice conditions overall. We got very lucky on this notorious passage. Usually one gets some heavy conditions either at the start or end of the 7-9 day passage since the high/lows tend to move on 5-7 day cycles.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7f-K9HfMFrqQ45p5hqxRoNrrWUjV8leb_QCJJ5YsMePiuqw-fmfW1dMqLqqqkfBwRdQRoNHOKbY-C_Cbg131PLkkpNkBl5r5NhA0Tn3k5JGwSbdDTmneY2TcqxtWsnaS5nCzYMveEnk/s1600/wxDayBeforeNZpassage+%2528blog%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="766" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7f-K9HfMFrqQ45p5hqxRoNrrWUjV8leb_QCJJ5YsMePiuqw-fmfW1dMqLqqqkfBwRdQRoNHOKbY-C_Cbg131PLkkpNkBl5r5NhA0Tn3k5JGwSbdDTmneY2TcqxtWsnaS5nCzYMveEnk/s640/wxDayBeforeNZpassage+%2528blog%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">GFS grib weather forecast the day before departure looks good. <br />(black lines = surface press., red = 500 mb press., wind arrows = dir & speed, <br />color gradient = sea state (wave height))</span></td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">Tonga to North Minerva:</b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> At 07:30 on 7 November we turned on the engine and proceeded out the pass of Tongatapu. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Torben drives while Judy helps navigate out the pass. Phil and I are on the bow using our eyes and pointing to the reef for Torben. Tom was also looking at the boat's Nav system.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After we hoisted the mainsail and jib, we were a little dismayed at our slow boat speed. The winds were perfect, 16-18 knots but we were only going 6 knots. When Torben reached down to turn the engine off he realized he'd put the throttle into reverse-idle instead of neutral. We were slowly motoring in reverse!</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> After turning the engine off, Cinnabar surged up to 8 knots of boat speed</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> - that was more like it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In short we had a lovely overnight sail to our first destination - the famed <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minerva_Reefs" target="_blank">North Minerva Reef. </a> </b>Similar to Beveridge Reef, it was a surreal experience to make a rest stop in what felt like the middle of the ocean.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After we dropped anchor at 17:26 (5:29 p.m., 8 November), Tom wrote the following in CINNABAR's log: "Overall - really nice conditions - beam reach, moderate seas, good winds." Doesn't get much better than that. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR's track through the pass and our anchor spot. Note the 360 degree protection from the exposed reef.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was quite windy but the reef provided good protection from the ocean swell and, unlike submerged Beveridge where we bounced unprotected at high tide, the exposed reef at Minerva protected us and we had a very comfortable couple of days and nights in the anchorage with our friends. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">GONE WITH THE WIND (blue) and AMARYLLIS (red) anchored in Minerva Reef.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom and Liam (GWTW) went spearfishing in Minerva.<br />(Unlike other reports we've read, big fish were not abundant)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fresh fish that night<br />(Had to settle for small goatfish)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>North Minerva to Bay of Islands, NZ:</b> Although we would have liked to stay in North Minerva a bit longer, the good weather was stable and it looked like perfect conditions to sail on to New Zealand. On 10 November we turned the engine on at 09:28 and motored out the pass of North Minerva Reef. Our friends on GONE WITH THE WIND would stay another night and depart the next day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had good conditions the first day and were able to sail the entire day. The winds were in the 16-21 knot range. The seas got a bit lumpy that evening and CINNABAR was going very fast, in the 8-9.4 knot range. When we started taking big waves into the cockpit, we reefed the sails (reduced sail area) to make things less bouncy and more comfortable. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Just after midnight, we crossed over the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/180th_meridian" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">180th meridian</a><b>, </b></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">which divides the western and eastern hemispheres. This is the opposite of the 0 degree (or Prime) meridian which runs through Greenwich, England.</span><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"> </b><i style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"> </i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">From now on, we would be reporting our position at longitude EAST instead of longitude WEST, a milestone! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That day the conditions moderated a bit but we still sailed 100% of the time in good winds in the teens. A boat 1 day ahead of us reported having to use their engine because they were becalmed. We hoped that we were bringing the wind with us. Since our genset (small independent generator) had died, we continued to need to run the engine 1-2 hrs daily to recharge the batteries (not optimal). However, the engine also heated the water for showers, so it wasn't a bad thing. Tom's log entry that night: "Weather forecast still looks great."</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Perfect wind at 17.6 knots, sailing on a close reach in flat water, heading right to our destination,</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The third day, Monday 12 November, the conditions lightened a bit more but we still kept wind in the sails, hoping to stay above 7 knots of boat speed in order to get to our destination Opua, NZ before nightfall on Wednesday. Boats were having to motor ahead of us, and GONE WITH THE WIND reported having to motor behind us, but CINNABAR kept zipping along at a comfortable 7-9 knot range.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Phil enjoyed hand-steering.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br />On day four the seas became quite flat and the winds got lighter, but we managed to maintain our desired boat speed. We used the mild weather opportunity to deploy our storm jib/staysail for the practice and to check the jib sheet leads. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Keeping Phil busy on the bow.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Also, things were really getting cooler and we pulled out jackets and hats...but not shoes. Around midnight the temperature was down to 65 F, a new low.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Torben, Sylvia, Judy and Phil enjoying the great conditions. No shoes yet.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The passage to-date was going incredibly well with our experienced, fun, and capable crew, everyone getting lots of sleep, the boat going moderately fast, and the conditions staying favorable. We were thanking our lucky stars each day while being ready for any road bumps or hiccups that could eventuate at any moment.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I loved sharing galley duties with Judy. Lasagna, another great dinner down the hatch. Note Phil resting off-watch in the background.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In the early morning hours of day five at 03:10 we passed under the 100 mi. distance to our destination. At 04:37 the wind got very light and our boat speed was too slow. In order to make it into Opua before dark that day we turned the engine on and motored until the winds came up at 10:45. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">At 12:30 Phil sighted land and got to yell "Land Ho!" </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's always exciting to sight land after many days at sea.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As we entered the stunningly beautiful Bay Of Islands we were amazed at all the bird life. We loved seeing the huge albatross but the colorful gannets, hundreds of them, were especially striking as they dive-bombed into the water head first to grab fish. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-NBLEBYHwq2ZIbwgWquL7Xt1VAi4Uh0rccgyrK-mr0tCOqvYw4B_4tI8DfcJwP0fzbIV6l250IaXwjuq_GkhGJC_sqXdqtPYhUQBAcExt2s3VwUiTI40RLd_3I97_9l26cDgACa6qDYWl/s1600/IMG_1312+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-NBLEBYHwq2ZIbwgWquL7Xt1VAi4Uh0rccgyrK-mr0tCOqvYw4B_4tI8DfcJwP0fzbIV6l250IaXwjuq_GkhGJC_sqXdqtPYhUQBAcExt2s3VwUiTI40RLd_3I97_9l26cDgACa6qDYWl/s640/IMG_1312+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR enters the Bay of Islands.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1n-FN-tPKEaPi3aNxLNGvHqwyoVxHuTkUp-684066Ch9Rfa64C1BAzpUcMCXKN2-y7MO8sZ0jKl_3tQx9CPHpQ_EHAz0GXsNkpFBOMGg9Mxn1dQQ0SZX49bnigxhQNNXCDvvhERyc7nb/s1600/12002386+x+4+Gannet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1106" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1n-FN-tPKEaPi3aNxLNGvHqwyoVxHuTkUp-684066Ch9Rfa64C1BAzpUcMCXKN2-y7MO8sZ0jKl_3tQx9CPHpQ_EHAz0GXsNkpFBOMGg9Mxn1dQQ0SZX49bnigxhQNNXCDvvhERyc7nb/s640/12002386+x+4+Gannet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Australasian Gannet (photo courtesy of NZ Birds Online)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We called harbor control and reported entering the bay and that we would meet Customs at their special dock the following morning. They gave us the OK for that and at 17:30 we dropped our anchor at Roberton Island for our arrival celebration. We'd made it! This was the first place we'd ever seen where the pictures of the location did not do it justice.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrP5BAwRtNxV0-nnFVdNI4XZJqlL56ZTQAHVE6H7ZL3Jn7hMZDu1BxSSvh6IIXbXBYFaFYDoWqV6p1N5Xqyi4PiC0tk1IHXC2d7JcF0yNR18Ybx0LowF8pt3TeSSfsEsnPAqomqZhTaiM/s1600/20181114_182648+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1366" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrP5BAwRtNxV0-nnFVdNI4XZJqlL56ZTQAHVE6H7ZL3Jn7hMZDu1BxSSvh6IIXbXBYFaFYDoWqV6p1N5Xqyi4PiC0tk1IHXC2d7JcF0yNR18Ybx0LowF8pt3TeSSfsEsnPAqomqZhTaiM/s640/20181114_182648+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our traditional celebratory shot of Don Julio. (Thank you SHINDIG)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPPFDSrf0M-EHuVG5KhmmELBlmEToCeXludatpyfmwwykfy5NuGxrFsX6DT1Qn2-GiwmMGrFRghg1rKZswjaOJk3DDESd45tSDV7QdwrgnNBoEMcm-xNPAOU33KMX13_rcDWA16ZwD7b1/s1600/IMG_1313+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPPFDSrf0M-EHuVG5KhmmELBlmEToCeXludatpyfmwwykfy5NuGxrFsX6DT1Qn2-GiwmMGrFRghg1rKZswjaOJk3DDESd45tSDV7QdwrgnNBoEMcm-xNPAOU33KMX13_rcDWA16ZwD7b1/s640/IMG_1313+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Yay! We're here! Why is Torben frowning?</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJKem4W8D2mAPO4aeNi9cvYN4EnWQvNqDR4qaGbGmH2OTtem0KYzXCEOc37HOpyVwbkgUcpUjF7xtoXd1KX1XVvvxEhR3vjdBbbBfIXc7a3wWpaNH6-8r4w7JNBpQ-ewsvaMnw6StuzP4/s1600/IMG_1316+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJKem4W8D2mAPO4aeNi9cvYN4EnWQvNqDR4qaGbGmH2OTtem0KYzXCEOc37HOpyVwbkgUcpUjF7xtoXd1KX1XVvvxEhR3vjdBbbBfIXc7a3wWpaNH6-8r4w7JNBpQ-ewsvaMnw6StuzP4/s640/IMG_1316+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Come on Torben, how about a little smile.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11nfU_wijeWxSs5_PujAFYje7aLLXOB8P7XNmP2NY01O7RVDQ9SyhLFjQPg2eOO7NhoQJQbITVy_3qBNHDunmJ4l9x2jmatO-4eYrgGdDTE-7cU8bJ_e0jIsFZWW_RZuUORf1dXGMGqeb/s1600/IMG_1317+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11nfU_wijeWxSs5_PujAFYje7aLLXOB8P7XNmP2NY01O7RVDQ9SyhLFjQPg2eOO7NhoQJQbITVy_3qBNHDunmJ4l9x2jmatO-4eYrgGdDTE-7cU8bJ_e0jIsFZWW_RZuUORf1dXGMGqeb/s640/IMG_1317+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That's more like it.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next morning we went directly to the customs dock to wait for our turn to check into NZ. We spoke to a man who had done the trip 11 times and he said the weather for this trip was by far the best he'd ever had. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were greeted by a harbor representative who gave us a NZ welcome package that contained several forms that needed to be filled out. We had already filled out and emailed some forms, as required, ahead of time.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotU5CeMH0Qy2vJP8UVkRqFBlwhm27JmavlvtCRMji2dUobMZAZTzZF7lkoLR06UUQ8TUa5C-p36QnjHAkEwB7beeswAHBSbIYOm5_XASZGfb5-vENZ7k6URU2BJ_WtowUGz4BVjGw6YAL/s1600/IMG_3644+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="816" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotU5CeMH0Qy2vJP8UVkRqFBlwhm27JmavlvtCRMji2dUobMZAZTzZF7lkoLR06UUQ8TUa5C-p36QnjHAkEwB7beeswAHBSbIYOm5_XASZGfb5-vENZ7k6URU2BJ_WtowUGz4BVjGw6YAL/s640/IMG_3644+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom tried to coax the nice harbor "greeter" lady into giving a free teeny bottle of whiskey to each crewmember, not just 1 bottle per boat. No dice.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The boat-bottom bio-hazard crew came out to take pictures of CINNABAR's bottom to make sure we weren't bringing any undesirable hitchhikers into NZ waters. They take this very seriously. Luckily we had new bottom paint applied in Raiatea, plus Tom cleaned the boat's bottom in Tonga just before we left, so we passed with flying colors. (Our friends on SMETANA just down the dock were not so lucky. They had to get hauled and washed at their expense before they were allowed to sail away.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The food biohazard agent inspected our stores (food) and the only things he took were some frozen chicken and hamburger meat, and fresh fruits and veg (1 apple, 1 orange, 2 carrots, 1 egg). We'd heard about NZ's "war on meat and honey" and fully expected to lose fish (frozen from Palmerston), salami, and other cured or possibly canned meats but no, we got to keep all that and the herbs, spices, and other plant products. He wanted to take some frozen chicken stew but we promised we would eat it that night so he let us keep it.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWw8oig7Ndt8bYcbu57H5ewxvtzrciblt6mv8QQzor8QdDpnSVn5WT2dbAqdFN2KInXCrrlcj4vaO5vsA3OW2Gt9ljxpcWRXbL0MGot3ZY-91pM0vbjhfgkxcyicaA5Y4lieAKDd9qOdXp/s1600/IMG_1337+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWw8oig7Ndt8bYcbu57H5ewxvtzrciblt6mv8QQzor8QdDpnSVn5WT2dbAqdFN2KInXCrrlcj4vaO5vsA3OW2Gt9ljxpcWRXbL0MGot3ZY-91pM0vbjhfgkxcyicaA5Y4lieAKDd9qOdXp/s640/IMG_1337+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our bio-hazard gets dumped in the bins for incineration.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">At 14:20 (2:20 p.m.) we were done clearing customs and Torben deftly drove us off the dock in some wicked current. As we motored out to our anchorage we passed GONE WITH THE WIND on their way in. They reported that they had gotten pummeled their last night at sea, some of the worst weather they'd had in their past 11 years of cruising. We breathed a sigh of relief that we'd left Minerva Reef when we did instead of waiting one more night.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A very large dolphin escorted us to our anchorage.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We dropped anchor in beautiful Omakiwi Cove and made it an early night as we would be weighing anchor at 03:00 the next morning. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were all keen to get down to Whangarei (74 nm trip). With CINNABAR's deep draft we would only be able to come in on the high tide which would be at 14:00. So we would have to leave at the godawful time of 03:00 to make the tide.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Bay of Islands to Whangarei:</b> After sunrise, it turned into a lovely day and we had a beautiful motor-sail down the picturesque coast. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Very pleasant day for a scenic journey south.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We could have used a bit more wind but we had plenty of fuel so we just sat back and enjoyed the journey. We'd had no luck fishing all the way from Tonga and today was no exception. The birds were having great luck, however.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We sail by Tutukaka, halfway between Opua and Whangarei. The birds had better luck fishing than we did.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As we sailed around the Whangarei Heads we could see one of the America's Cup boats practicing in the distance (they can hit speeds of 40+ knots). What a great welcome into Whangarei.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was a long motor into the bay and 11 nm up the Hatea River to our final destination at the Town Basin Marina. CINNABAR has a nearly 9' draft and we were in water reading 9', yikes! But we made it up the river, under the drawbridge, and into our spot with no difficulties.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUsVftL-PcBsIzBUONxxzUfbSjdWtJBYTL5Zd9KtUdlSLKOzMwVe_RDP2Hmv9zFSxKPZhf5gzn5WsUhv9SLqts2QpmOP7TVpNY54tIffseurQAefA5stXTP1qH4QdJedNTV2qumGGRzqoN/s1600/IMG_1352+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="893" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUsVftL-PcBsIzBUONxxzUfbSjdWtJBYTL5Zd9KtUdlSLKOzMwVe_RDP2Hmv9zFSxKPZhf5gzn5WsUhv9SLqts2QpmOP7TVpNY54tIffseurQAefA5stXTP1qH4QdJedNTV2qumGGRzqoN/s640/IMG_1352+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A local boat led us through the drawbridge, very neighborly!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Very high tide as we pass the marina office on the left.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpA1Foiqbq2-m5BHc7qy4AzdqtjiKZNMjzEPpxq6TgdzIalpKtAxixOLKy8MAx5S7-GxXc3giWpL1SbeVWY8eDAY6usshzIuN3bVHhyNaAkv4G8n1_1QEjCs6yHXx27r3pnM_WYzRyZTLD/s1600/IMG_1356+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="897" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpA1Foiqbq2-m5BHc7qy4AzdqtjiKZNMjzEPpxq6TgdzIalpKtAxixOLKy8MAx5S7-GxXc3giWpL1SbeVWY8eDAY6usshzIuN3bVHhyNaAkv4G8n1_1QEjCs6yHXx27r3pnM_WYzRyZTLD/s640/IMG_1356+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cinnabar's new home, side tied to the old vessel RUAH.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Epilogue (by Tom): </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Arrival to NZ was a big deal for TC and SS. This was our main general goal when we set out cruising 6 years ago. This was the culmination of our central dream of 20 years and it was great to reach it in our 30th year of being a couple together. We look forward to spending much time here in NZ exploring this wonderful country and doing some major refit/repair to our floating home. From here onward it is all a bonus and we will formulate a new master plan/goal for our blessed lives. Our current thinking is to do a few more years of this cruising, including heading to places like Fiji, New Caledonia, Australia, and Tasmania.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We are extremely grateful to have had our friends and crew go to all the trouble and expense of joining us for this grand passage/adventure from Tonga to NZ. What great memories and how very enjoyable. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Special Note: On this passage, Torben brought along his brand new (portable) Iridium GO! satellite wifi router along with a weather & routing subscription to the Predict Wind weather service. I must say, this combination package worked extremely well for easily getting weather updates and for the routing aspects. I've been a die-hard fan of using the HF Radio, Saildocs, and Expedition software to cover the same aspects, however, I am impressed with the ease and capabilities of Torben's new system. It must be why a few other trusted cruisers are using the same setup. I enjoyed comparing the two systems and there's much to recommend about the newest one.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Album: </span><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/6jgtjZnoDcf5oUq76" style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><b>TONGATAPU TO TUTUKAKA</b></a></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-51975218531231768652019-02-10T17:12:00.000-08:002019-02-12T01:31:36.916-08:00The Kingdom of Tonga<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We are in New Zealand but will be posting some catch-up info about our journey from French Poly to New Zealand. We've already done posts on Legs 1, 2 and 3. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Moving West:<br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/palmerston-atoll-visited-only-by-boat.html" target="_blank">Leg 1 Raiatea, French Polynesia to Palmerston</a>, Cook Is. (Sept 23-28), 675 nm<br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/beveridge-reef-submerged-mountain.html" target="_blank">Leg 2 To Beveridge Reef</a> (Oct 5-7), 288 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/12/niue-tiny-island-nation.html" target="_blank">Leg 3 to Niue</a> (Oct 8-9), 142 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: yellow;">Leg 4 To Vava'u, N. Tonga (Oct 12-14) 245 nm</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: yellow;">Leg 5 To Nuku'alofa, S. Tonga (Oct 31-Nov 1) 168 nm</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Leg 6 To Minerva Reef (Nov 7-8) 258 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><u>Leg 7 To Opua, New Zealand, (Nov 10-14) 787 nm</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Total 2563 nm </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Leg 4 - Niue to Northern Tonga - The Vava'u Group:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The first day of our trip from Niue to Vava'u Tonga was a bit squally, but we did get a beautiful double rainbow to admire. If you recall we left Niue along with several other boats including HILMA (heading north), ONDULAR and Y2K, (heading to Tonga).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8I0XOXF20V27Fa7CujNhZqNrq-ZnN4XLgY-820esuNhEX-iNAdDnTpF13L8cV0LqAlfGf8gtKswwslKk_KBdmJOqh_ywX-XnN6ZaJfyhIQf7gqsbTyVowICTHg1Uu_GHpqxNDFrndTFHd/s1600/IMG_0061+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8I0XOXF20V27Fa7CujNhZqNrq-ZnN4XLgY-820esuNhEX-iNAdDnTpF13L8cV0LqAlfGf8gtKswwslKk_KBdmJOqh_ywX-XnN6ZaJfyhIQf7gqsbTyVowICTHg1Uu_GHpqxNDFrndTFHd/s640/IMG_0061+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We expected the next day (day #2) to be quite calm but then the following day (day #3) the weather was predicted to go downhill and we hoped to reach the protected anchorage in the Vava'u group of Tonga before then.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyaaHbAUVcg9ag3I4kG3OCyBwsLo8vB2cwyQaltIkLsXgSN6UWNVPIECXkJ3Kd4WQnc1vdNKq9cKp6Jdtho9iav2Y216kQLl7F1HC-gN8AryZIPQRWSgGTq_ojln_U6kMTFDsdbSNC8YAU/s1600/IMG_0059+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyaaHbAUVcg9ag3I4kG3OCyBwsLo8vB2cwyQaltIkLsXgSN6UWNVPIECXkJ3Kd4WQnc1vdNKq9cKp6Jdtho9iav2Y216kQLl7F1HC-gN8AryZIPQRWSgGTq_ojln_U6kMTFDsdbSNC8YAU/s640/IMG_0059+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sometimes (rarely it seems) the Pacific Ocean is actually pacific.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Day #2 (above) was flat calm in our part of the world. Our friends on HILMA had headed north toward the Marshall Islands and were in completely opposite weather. They ended up losing their rudder in some high winds and big seas. HILMA youtube: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gz3cLRiEmzo" target="_blank"><b>"Nightmare" episode</b></a>. (Long episode so you might want to go to "settings" and select a faster speed for watching.) Luckily, after 4 days, they managed to limp into Majuro safe and sound. Just goes to show you how important the weather (winds and sea state) is to us sailors. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Credit to them for tenacity and enduring 7 breakages on their temp-makeshift e-rudder!</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We approach the pass into the Vava'u group just after sunrise, heading for the town of Neiafu. It's overcast but we've managed to beat the big winds and heavy rain.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We arrived at Tonga around 4AM and waited in the wind and rain for dawn so we could enter the pass at daylight. Little did we know at the time that it would be rainy and cloudy for our entire 3 weeks in Tonga. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We tied up at the concrete customs dock to check into the Kingdom of Tonga. This was the first place where a customs agent tried to hit us up for goods and a tip. Both requests were met with feigned shock and a polite "I don't think so." It was a bit of a challenge to arrive and especially to depart this dock because of the current and wind angle but we managed to do it without damaging CINNABAR and with a little help from people on shore.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><u>Leg 4 Trip Totals:</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance sailed = 245 nm (Niue to N. Tonga)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Duration = 43.2 hrs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Avg speed = 5.6 kts (low due to arriving early and stalling for daylight)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Motored = 15.8 hrs</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlAGAQY6D0AIFfXPZln0G00VDXv9mUxRojAk-FtQCls5pzIKfTjOe5h4VynR1g2wkV_752SuLFt5VPGRQiGR0ugYprwiiamqDhcRKJ4dYJTLb53lI0D9AkeLBpnzzdoVUfLbkbzMIAjBmq/s1600/IMG_0063+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlAGAQY6D0AIFfXPZln0G00VDXv9mUxRojAk-FtQCls5pzIKfTjOe5h4VynR1g2wkV_752SuLFt5VPGRQiGR0ugYprwiiamqDhcRKJ4dYJTLb53lI0D9AkeLBpnzzdoVUfLbkbzMIAjBmq/s640/IMG_0063+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cinnabar tied up at the concrete customs dock.<br />(Looks deceivingly nice at high tide, but underneath the concrete overhang are black-dirty tires and rusty metal wharf plates, all of which want to mark and crunch boat hulls)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After leaving the customs dock we headed over to the mooring field and luckily got one of the last moorings, owned by the local dive operation, so we were secure for the nasty weather event that was already spitting rain in our direction.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIL2yHVI7IIZeV0BS9tyJQOSjwpAGEYJak7eRCL8mi4FggJxuDgSgVBcjkyf2maGynQ1B8gWzOVv7rs0YdEYnrlq2CNm6p0lzJt_TSR_N8Hnu8Bk9gPvVvNDNRdfl-wLy9NOdubQvUTyR/s1600/IMG_1211+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIL2yHVI7IIZeV0BS9tyJQOSjwpAGEYJak7eRCL8mi4FggJxuDgSgVBcjkyf2maGynQ1B8gWzOVv7rs0YdEYnrlq2CNm6p0lzJt_TSR_N8Hnu8Bk9gPvVvNDNRdfl-wLy9NOdubQvUTyR/s640/IMG_1211+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The very protected mooring field in Neiafu harbor. Cinnabar is at the far end which is where we typically prefer to be.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>TONGA:</b> The Kingdom of Tonga is a Polynesian country which is a constitutionalized monarchy (as of 2010) rather than a traditional absolute kingdom. It is an archipelago of 169 islands (36 inhabited) that stretches 500 miles north to south. The country has never relinquished its sovereignty to any foreign power.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tonga became known in the West as the "Friendly Islands" because of the congenial reception that Captain Cook received on his first visit. He happened to arrive during an annual celebration and, according to writer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Mariner_(writer)" target="_blank"><b>William Mariner</b></a> (teenage English sailor adopted into a Tongan family for 4 years) the chiefs were actually planning to kill Cook but couldn't agree upon a plan.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Exploring:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's always fun when arriving in a new place to explore the markets. We were happy to see that the outdoor market in Neiafu had a good selection of fresh fruits and vegetables.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2w99RyWi5oLjdB7YdqVM1IL0NZyLRa3zK33w-Ys1Q6Xl0n17-WB74SYcoekEq0OOTRAhDFxDWzOZGipHZc12NO09yyuvQ6GnoivYIyfS6aYRb0KomvCl4yo0mJF4xzZ24tDQmB3CJmDP/s1600/IMG_0067+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2w99RyWi5oLjdB7YdqVM1IL0NZyLRa3zK33w-Ys1Q6Xl0n17-WB74SYcoekEq0OOTRAhDFxDWzOZGipHZc12NO09yyuvQ6GnoivYIyfS6aYRb0KomvCl4yo0mJF4xzZ24tDQmB3CJmDP/s640/IMG_0067+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mostly everything is locally grown. The market even had lots of fresh herbs.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We noticed as we walked through the town, as we did most days, that there were many more pigs walking around free than there were dogs.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHdVJGBU7abojihMV3LHRjU1-b4lNYptWvpzqjbONTEqqn-lOTlHESZmpqixc2nbccu_l3t8zsVJ0hwH0SJ5vrvsstj4pjKELhFOX6MbELxrwBK1KwmJKKVpcypgGwxCH-EL1_Dnu5e8E/s1600/IMG_1224+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHdVJGBU7abojihMV3LHRjU1-b4lNYptWvpzqjbONTEqqn-lOTlHESZmpqixc2nbccu_l3t8zsVJ0hwH0SJ5vrvsstj4pjKELhFOX6MbELxrwBK1KwmJKKVpcypgGwxCH-EL1_Dnu5e8E/s640/IMG_1224+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A very common sight in every yard in Neiafu.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After sailing all the way from French Polynesia to Palmerston to Niue to Tonga, and looking forward to sailing from Tonga to New Zealand, we decided that Neiafu was a good place to fuel up. The options are 1) arranging a fuel truck in advance and meeting it at the dreaded concrete dock, or 2) taking jerry jugs to the gas station. Since the weather outside the harbor was raging and we were "stuck" in Neiafu we, meaning Tom, had plenty of time to make several trips to the gas station. He planned to walk in and taxi back but most of the time locals helped him out. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoH3dicS_z9cwQfoG3goAIgB331tc63PuU9pk4xeLcPNNTrwYkrOVYS8IpgA1QIXksMCKgLgg3FIG9-bIK9aIDRdQrW3O9BhcKYVSrThpFnIK4Vb8ZnFWaSliNnI-5xoaispYytw258Sd9/s1600/IMG_1227+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoH3dicS_z9cwQfoG3goAIgB331tc63PuU9pk4xeLcPNNTrwYkrOVYS8IpgA1QIXksMCKgLgg3FIG9-bIK9aIDRdQrW3O9BhcKYVSrThpFnIK4Vb8ZnFWaSliNnI-5xoaispYytw258Sd9/s640/IMG_1227+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">These two young construction workers (and rugby players, obviously) helped Tom carry his jug back to the Mango Cafe where we docked the dinghy. They wouldn't take money but they let us treat them to a soda.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We used the Mango Cafe as our office since it had the best wifi in town. It also had a daily happy hour, good food, and an international fishing tournament.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_CDkvcCUNuuUv2zFgGZ1Y1fHCV7syxdZc9T3UOGKo_Nk_-WAX1ZHNzT4mgn4mrZTgCGMesp8K0LDbuD80P7VhFxgDkJqDldy0AlQTF2weLnGqAJAkmQ3dSbItyFzbCB9cS2HpRaSKk-l/s1600/IMG_0070+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_CDkvcCUNuuUv2zFgGZ1Y1fHCV7syxdZc9T3UOGKo_Nk_-WAX1ZHNzT4mgn4mrZTgCGMesp8K0LDbuD80P7VhFxgDkJqDldy0AlQTF2weLnGqAJAkmQ3dSbItyFzbCB9cS2HpRaSKk-l/s640/IMG_0070+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Italians Max (Y2K), Rafaela and Giovanni (OBIWAN) and Alex (Y2K) using wifi at the Mango. Rafaela and Giovanni met us at the concrete dock when we arrived and helped us with our lines.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCVc2HQT6I18sYlh6O7iOfMadO0bX7YjkUI02oMBt5HIEFA-haBdgTbe0mGeuDsaqZX49mkzmMBb4_h_e7NjLExKCLdeXmuj5eYoyb43W4_iuIkIRnU2x9mM0Gweu40IhroE4JW8dgL0lH/s1600/IMG_1219+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCVc2HQT6I18sYlh6O7iOfMadO0bX7YjkUI02oMBt5HIEFA-haBdgTbe0mGeuDsaqZX49mkzmMBb4_h_e7NjLExKCLdeXmuj5eYoyb43W4_iuIkIRnU2x9mM0Gweu40IhroE4JW8dgL0lH/s640/IMG_1219+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The daily 5:30 PM fish tournament weigh-in coincided with Happy Hour at the Mango<br />(impressive Yellowfin Tuna)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">There was some excitement in town during our visit. Rugby is Tonga's national sport and the entire nation was gearing up for the upcoming finals between Tonga and Australia. Everybody was wearing red (Tonga's national color) and parades through the town were a daily occurrence.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlUaltgShJyqXBQdBbO3djwOCMgctKSesA3DnLW9HOxxZxHPpTLdNRqJuTha9EyWSDrxAhe13Ob1Ssde-NdefpnVEVROY4De4P1-7bwPmhmiZE0MdRGCBDrJ-AdPCfUsWD7SbawF3Yuf67/s1600/IMG_0066+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlUaltgShJyqXBQdBbO3djwOCMgctKSesA3DnLW9HOxxZxHPpTLdNRqJuTha9EyWSDrxAhe13Ob1Ssde-NdefpnVEVROY4De4P1-7bwPmhmiZE0MdRGCBDrJ-AdPCfUsWD7SbawF3Yuf67/s640/IMG_0066+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Mate Ma'a Tonga</i>!! It means "Die for Tonga!" and everyone was singing and chanting this from morning until late into the night.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Of course we had to join the fun so we went to the Refuge, a sports bar across the street from the Mango Cafe to watch the game. Unbelievably, we ran into our friend Harold from San Francisco who was there to help deliver a boat to NZ. Harold and Tom had once done a boat delivery from So Cal to San Francisco.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbCJQoBqAWGN_dJAo7dLe6rzKfBY2IviyII0kw6FgkhDrAVBrCpuoIFUpbyNyDCZ9IUn2PBDxfyBfsFBKzxsJRRhDyjsSJk-lWqFBvz0SlxoWHMG924hCGoR6vCWrlUgAEBdvimG1sBg-/s1600/IMG_1230+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbCJQoBqAWGN_dJAo7dLe6rzKfBY2IviyII0kw6FgkhDrAVBrCpuoIFUpbyNyDCZ9IUn2PBDxfyBfsFBKzxsJRRhDyjsSJk-lWqFBvz0SlxoWHMG924hCGoR6vCWrlUgAEBdvimG1sBg-/s640/IMG_1230+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">What a fun surprise to run into a friend from SF<br />(Sylvia and Harold served on the Pac Cup Board of Directors).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was a fun night and the Aussies handily beat the Tongans 34-16, but I don't think there is any nation as faithful to their team as the Kingdom of Tonga. The match was held in Auckland, NZ but the crowd was an absolute sea of red shirts and Tongan flags. Even when their team was down by 20 points at halftime the Tongan fans were singing hymns and songs in harmony. It was stunning.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLBq2XgatZWOp2zMEc0tarpBwXIpQuNFHPhYnB7IyD68vevnHLbq6Jj8LyspZZOOa62kSfEDncMlvTnbXuACQrHy8k_shfSF2KlyyJbrPdNzCRwveo7bZyasC9Rg5dxZ8i1vaujJQnr1e/s1600/IMG_1244+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLBq2XgatZWOp2zMEc0tarpBwXIpQuNFHPhYnB7IyD68vevnHLbq6Jj8LyspZZOOa62kSfEDncMlvTnbXuACQrHy8k_shfSF2KlyyJbrPdNzCRwveo7bZyasC9Rg5dxZ8i1vaujJQnr1e/s640/IMG_1244+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All dressed up for church.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We'd heard that similar to French Polynesia, the Tongan church services included some incredible singing, so a group of us got all dressed up and went to the nearby catholic church for mass. The locals dressed in a combination and contemporary and traditional garb and arrived by the truck-fulls to attend mass.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxbCFyViTw0jvkGnS76sNb_EsR_JndQc88iZq-_ndhGfBOYH-p7NgzHLED1tYRlIFmAnZtLH4kR9HO-0jZaRhTczBCy1EISFwFSAjXb0eDERa1sXhrNVPXhhClXJ8e8xHqRqweUnRZuqed/s1600/IMG_1254+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="871" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxbCFyViTw0jvkGnS76sNb_EsR_JndQc88iZq-_ndhGfBOYH-p7NgzHLED1tYRlIFmAnZtLH4kR9HO-0jZaRhTczBCy1EISFwFSAjXb0eDERa1sXhrNVPXhhClXJ8e8xHqRqweUnRZuqed/s640/IMG_1254+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I loved how these traditionally dressed women (wearing the straw or cloth woven <i>kiekie</i>) were taking selfies.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEEgCmjM5KJr6R-ahEQSPAP-Xv_N5z8yAvrxnFbWRa_hREQk_RxM_GDWGO2WgsT9ZVYF2yz1TuECwUgcgy-5cwX-gYRVxuM0UXjRqclIKR-RIjJQ7CXYsphGqoSWPLs1KaTuMDukFdxaql/s1600/IMG_1256+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="831" height="590" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEEgCmjM5KJr6R-ahEQSPAP-Xv_N5z8yAvrxnFbWRa_hREQk_RxM_GDWGO2WgsT9ZVYF2yz1TuECwUgcgy-5cwX-gYRVxuM0UXjRqclIKR-RIjJQ7CXYsphGqoSWPLs1KaTuMDukFdxaql/s640/IMG_1256+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mick (ONDULAR) and Tom had quite a conversation with this adorable little girl.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6zN7pFJb55LWP6VsBhrr6NM6A06WMVoHbU7qszjFqmuQg4XSY5P3e4oyCG8u3SagDaHfeafjAlY8OLAjQ6f2YcOgbEl9BeqfJrr3uf2oPFBU2QCsRmxKyUqUkjGdhOZduA9ZGUlb5vGv/s1600/IMG_1241+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1098" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6zN7pFJb55LWP6VsBhrr6NM6A06WMVoHbU7qszjFqmuQg4XSY5P3e4oyCG8u3SagDaHfeafjAlY8OLAjQ6f2YcOgbEl9BeqfJrr3uf2oPFBU2QCsRmxKyUqUkjGdhOZduA9ZGUlb5vGv/s640/IMG_1241+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Piling in to head home.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">One of the funnest things about our lifestyle is getting to meet people from all over the world. I have been talking to Joe and Michele aboard a boat called PEREGRINE over the HF radio since we crossed the Pacific Ocean in April of 2016, but we had never met them. Walking through Neiafu one day I stopped to chat with a couple who had a bag of laundry to ask them where they'd had it done. Turns out it was Joe and Michele and we got to finally meet them face to face. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4K2q8zRqf4ST05XG4BxduDG4Y6sCofwaGPjwIgbqT68zhuxz3ULDnh6AodF6AulZ6QBTiX6faDt87svoKAxhfmZKgHofnxEcIukhyFw7diMztQ2mRnDlKeSTZyL0v5j86qOK1U0yWnYam/s1600/IMG_0071+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1180" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4K2q8zRqf4ST05XG4BxduDG4Y6sCofwaGPjwIgbqT68zhuxz3ULDnh6AodF6AulZ6QBTiX6faDt87svoKAxhfmZKgHofnxEcIukhyFw7diMztQ2mRnDlKeSTZyL0v5j86qOK1U0yWnYam/s640/IMG_0071+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">By now you know the four in front, with Michele and Joe from PEREGRINE in the back. Enjoying tapas and wine at the local Basque restaurant.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After a couple of weeks of wind and rain the bad weather was about to end and all the boats were in conversations with each other about who was going where. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Y2K was going to stay in the Vava'u and Ha'apai groups of Tonga to enjoy the country some more. PEREGRINE was heading to Fiji for cyclone season. ONDULAR was going to New Caledonia on their way home to Australia. We had to meet crew in southern Tonga so would leave Vava'u and head directly south. And a big group of boats was planning to sail straight from Vava'u to New Zealand.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6uyVLEkrax2g6_4XRNTTRaqazYLZ9lBkwvNsW-52bsh12QfJ9kn_iOT3DuMd_FPxcl9-Tu4v07MkNL0uD95YdYN8Sew4sykuj8BPx5kmuTTzRLvVtgi9VhiENLKkY1enKbVbxdRj4bbDG/s1600/IMG_1215+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6uyVLEkrax2g6_4XRNTTRaqazYLZ9lBkwvNsW-52bsh12QfJ9kn_iOT3DuMd_FPxcl9-Tu4v07MkNL0uD95YdYN8Sew4sykuj8BPx5kmuTTzRLvVtgi9VhiENLKkY1enKbVbxdRj4bbDG/s640/IMG_1215+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The group planning to head straight to NZ all fueled up at the concrete dock.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Shortly after this group left for NZ we said goodbye to our friends and sailed out of Neiafu harbor. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sadly, due to the weather, we did not see any of the famed charter/cruising grounds of the Vavau Group (long ago we had a catamaran charter trip booked for here but had to cancel due to illness in our group). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Leg 5 - Northern to Southern Tonga - Nuku'alofa, Tongatapu:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As we left the Vava'u group and turned south we were unhappy to discover that the winds were right on the nose. At least the winds were light and the seas weren't too lumpy. Boats can't sail directly upwind so we had to make the decision to either tack back and forth or just motor into the wind. We didn't want to be tacking for 2 days so we chose to motor-sail overnight to expediently get to Nuku'alofa. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Regrettably, we had to bypass the entire Tonga Middle Island Group, the Ha'apai's, due to time constraints. They are remote, have great diving, kiting, and beaches.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Enroute, we saw and passed withing 12 nm of a volcano and strange newborn island of Hunga-Tonga. Article link here: <a href="https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-47153797" target="_blank"><b>New Tonga Island</b></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Naturally since it was now very close to the time our crew would join us, the handle on our head (bathroom) broke. The door would not remain closed. Tom removed the handle, took it apart, and we could see that the two little springs which hold the latch shut had weakened and broken. We didn't have replacement springs so he carefully re-joined the broken springs with our smallest size of seizing wire and inserted ball point pen springs (too wimpy to use by themselves) inside to keep them aligned. This successfully temporarily repaired the latch. (And the repair held throughout our passages to New Zealand.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Also, during the routine daily rig inspection, Tom noticed that the sealant around the chainplates had become worn out enough to open some gaps around these essential strongpoints. Since these hold up the mast and things only get worse with salt water leakage, Tom was able to perform a temporary clean out and reseal/repair. The proper way to remedy this requires a marina or boatyard, so we added it to the list of refit items for NZ.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Twenty-nine fairly uneventful hours after starting we pulled into Tongatapu at an anchorage near the main town of Nuku'alofa. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We'd heard about Pangaimotu Island anchorage, home of Big Mama's Yacht Club which was yachtie-friendly and popular, but had been decimated by Cyclone Gita in February of 2018. There were quite a few boats in the anchorage so we motored around until we found our spot, dropped the anchor near our friends Liam and Annie (catamaran GONE WITH THE WIND), and went in to check out Big Mama's.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><u>Leg 5 Trip Totals:</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance sailed = 168 nm (N. Tonga to S. Tonga)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Duration = 29.3 hrs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Avg speed = 5.7 kts (low due to motoring straight upwind)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Motored = 29.3 hrs</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcv8El1h6Ft25elQSviqBVhpjYmHzhx9Rto5zz7kvN_2g0V8gCoM5Bt0wQdQ4YzzIutEYu1nSUZ13f_WYVN_m34VV73YX6n4NMSl771W44SWeCf-4ruszmd2yDcD6QBjcmgwcnXsSD6NAs/s1600/IMG_1267+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcv8El1h6Ft25elQSviqBVhpjYmHzhx9Rto5zz7kvN_2g0V8gCoM5Bt0wQdQ4YzzIutEYu1nSUZ13f_WYVN_m34VV73YX6n4NMSl771W44SWeCf-4ruszmd2yDcD6QBjcmgwcnXsSD6NAs/s640/IMG_1267+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">There were many wrecked boats in the bay due to cyclone Gina, but this wasn't one of them. It's been a BMYC landmark for quite some time.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were glad to see that even though Big Mama's patio and large dinghy dock had been destroyed they had managed to build a temporary dinghy dock and get the bar and restaurant back in working order.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_QaneFl6w4lH9fKa1WhHwvA1LjcNnbWQGjQ5RK0S3wbL_9V3mBc7DFFuQXZZecRmPGQd3cUgmvsxanfTg8uRMJKVH8A5cQxjGoWJnlhkG___VLEg_a1h4Pa7RogfUTk8I9tSbC8Npxth/s1600/IMG_0097+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="802" height="612" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_QaneFl6w4lH9fKa1WhHwvA1LjcNnbWQGjQ5RK0S3wbL_9V3mBc7DFFuQXZZecRmPGQd3cUgmvsxanfTg8uRMJKVH8A5cQxjGoWJnlhkG___VLEg_a1h4Pa7RogfUTk8I9tSbC8Npxth/s640/IMG_0097+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The interim dinghy/ferry dock has to get pulled to/from shore due to the daily tidal changes. First they dock the ferry, lift the motors, and then pull the entire floating dock to the beach.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpt0QDlHEuY5ZkIJA4lPfolVtNjB3lIeoiaaDHvBmxMu10ZP6PjDpbKyXRLbszu8SSxjo-9y_H6NTMhTI0Z-FHnnyDNNlbtWjO5dWExZHlfOYh_5L9QzaEs5EdVxrSekRLWLLABPjkOWcC/s1600/IMG_3369+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="1024" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpt0QDlHEuY5ZkIJA4lPfolVtNjB3lIeoiaaDHvBmxMu10ZP6PjDpbKyXRLbszu8SSxjo-9y_H6NTMhTI0Z-FHnnyDNNlbtWjO5dWExZHlfOYh_5L9QzaEs5EdVxrSekRLWLLABPjkOWcC/s640/IMG_3369+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Big Mama's ferry made several trips a day to and from the city of Nuku'alofa.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were told that we'd arrived just in time. There was going to be a huge end-of-season and birthday party and feast in two nights and all the locals and yachties would attend.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_RXprO9jKqv3P-3V6nytEaIgGZ23hf9oq4Fq5lOm5DLTlIKis53aTTuds_8yx013NavWwe2FPebJAgVjY4dD06NQd76qzRnV6xTgwgIAvrQa_CFyYmy8HmPSFBilg1biU_lKGA1IDts3/s1600/IMG_0072+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1026" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_RXprO9jKqv3P-3V6nytEaIgGZ23hf9oq4Fq5lOm5DLTlIKis53aTTuds_8yx013NavWwe2FPebJAgVjY4dD06NQd76qzRnV6xTgwgIAvrQa_CFyYmy8HmPSFBilg1biU_lKGA1IDts3/s640/IMG_0072+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The band started early to get the guests warmed up.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1o1EUhnUWAOYh9aCOUihEu41-UHYfBpVrQ3fscKEeTg6mJmmW9RCVsHzCt2tHfF_e_x2R6-9M4MrKaqaHlAB9w4Qp9EfOpEf4TaSpPi8POuRlU8rgaIzrJ55BZCjEMds3a1rcZO-9k_h/s1600/IMG_0081+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1o1EUhnUWAOYh9aCOUihEu41-UHYfBpVrQ3fscKEeTg6mJmmW9RCVsHzCt2tHfF_e_x2R6-9M4MrKaqaHlAB9w4Qp9EfOpEf4TaSpPi8POuRlU8rgaIzrJ55BZCjEMds3a1rcZO-9k_h/s640/IMG_0081+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The table was groaning with food, much of it prepared in the traditional <i>umu</i> fire pit such as this succulent pig. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Tongans love to dance and the dancing started out with traditional moves but got crazier as the night went on.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUtZwRmxzMaobRANQEuuAKX3Txx58A5AWxpmrQHh3-OXGeXtxypxu9NnmZzWZdy7unkTdv5foRyRjMXtPVMyny8_usfv3g6WIoisZYwg1VBLl7KC3Y68mNrLfNTQtoJM1jk-sqIxwyB0N/s1600/IMG_0086+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUtZwRmxzMaobRANQEuuAKX3Txx58A5AWxpmrQHh3-OXGeXtxypxu9NnmZzWZdy7unkTdv5foRyRjMXtPVMyny8_usfv3g6WIoisZYwg1VBLl7KC3Y68mNrLfNTQtoJM1jk-sqIxwyB0N/s640/IMG_0086+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">One of the band members couldn't help himself so he jumped in and started dancing. Big Mama is in the background egging everyone on.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8L1iXyb5YX3Mo1K7zZ8SN_hwXdeZaVaVWky5vSc_-IZYzRucr9GicKjC_R06ESmEwt7KKaNJHxnSceTIufmw86SdHKYuS4HsrG0XcVggGJPChdyrzBaLf_izw9j9RmV63iT2AGeLlzNi/s1600/IMG_0093+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8L1iXyb5YX3Mo1K7zZ8SN_hwXdeZaVaVWky5vSc_-IZYzRucr9GicKjC_R06ESmEwt7KKaNJHxnSceTIufmw86SdHKYuS4HsrG0XcVggGJPChdyrzBaLf_izw9j9RmV63iT2AGeLlzNi/s640/IMG_0093+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The band - musicians by night...</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Zq27hd5B2FVX6v18T_aOJVIbbs0k1CXpnDe2dprmEoUFvmSc2b9kOiG4JCY7qEZ_JHcL94sihmah2FNzPVKV0op1Js7vDoH3FRcYWuNNvZEo3dVW0Ir67oVD7OFpClTv9e5TbspZBNz9/s1600/IMG_0092+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Zq27hd5B2FVX6v18T_aOJVIbbs0k1CXpnDe2dprmEoUFvmSc2b9kOiG4JCY7qEZ_JHcL94sihmah2FNzPVKV0op1Js7vDoH3FRcYWuNNvZEo3dVW0Ir67oVD7OFpClTv9e5TbspZBNz9/s640/IMG_0092+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...policemen by day.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was a terrific party but the next day when I went in to the yacht club the entire staff (except Big Mama's athletic son who was running on the beach at 6:00 a.m.) was bleary-eyed and admitted to me they had partied way too hard the night before.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsn2aUze9sfFBmMW0Z9ui_hgaRBmxk0kegYZrOLd0SH-5rZWfx5SRUg4TMvb0aVSHO5AZjh4Uvt8UtMazGWjjWyUdDOsajCyDrlEC_4QLYWrUFil2qVD5y8rF3mY2RQULnexbrzvL6IhnZ/s1600/IMG_0089+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsn2aUze9sfFBmMW0Z9ui_hgaRBmxk0kegYZrOLd0SH-5rZWfx5SRUg4TMvb0aVSHO5AZjh4Uvt8UtMazGWjjWyUdDOsajCyDrlEC_4QLYWrUFil2qVD5y8rF3mY2RQULnexbrzvL6IhnZ/s640/IMG_0089+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Happy at the party, but she was holding her head the next morning.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzjP3iNVAYydv20_87OCP-ow0lmgYA6ec9bSG2qYsuq0DQPvRayCHu8IkxVtk1Z3ZhpzC0EqAra4T-79tdq9eaFuz4Ak0Q-yJZHvd_PRQxM5PiAPFx3vTdOAgzLPzqbeN0muLMd3BJ0VM0/s1600/IMG_3372+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="993" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzjP3iNVAYydv20_87OCP-ow0lmgYA6ec9bSG2qYsuq0DQPvRayCHu8IkxVtk1Z3ZhpzC0EqAra4T-79tdq9eaFuz4Ak0Q-yJZHvd_PRQxM5PiAPFx3vTdOAgzLPzqbeN0muLMd3BJ0VM0/s640/IMG_3372+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Big Mama's Yacht Club as seen from the ferry.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">By the way, above is what Big Mama's looks like now, below is what it looked like after cyclone Gita. Kind of gives you an idea of how hard they have worked to get Big Mama's up and running again. Prior to the cyclone the yacht club had a huge outdoor patio and long dinghy/ferry dock that went way out into the water.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2U-25dHqteuFWE6qeIZk2r5k7_BwUfrpYCDhR3mbO5dJ7xnMVvSzsEpJjDgq3jA16jHShgnzCd-OY4oUsI2ojlNcpPzg_OrTntV22JCmKgd04ZlGoUNOJn1Qx70hsMuD6QrRPK_CjfahV/s1600/PangaimotuGoFundMebb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2U-25dHqteuFWE6qeIZk2r5k7_BwUfrpYCDhR3mbO5dJ7xnMVvSzsEpJjDgq3jA16jHShgnzCd-OY4oUsI2ojlNcpPzg_OrTntV22JCmKgd04ZlGoUNOJn1Qx70hsMuD6QrRPK_CjfahV/s640/PangaimotuGoFundMebb.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">photo from Big Mama's GoFundMe page.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Partying and feasting were fun but our crew was due to arrive in two days and we had lots to do so we spent our time preparing for the trip.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The day of the crew's arrival we dinghied in to shore and took the ferry from Pangaimotu island into Nuku'alofa. We had hired a taxi for Tom to meet the group at the airport while I spent time in town doing some final grocery shopping. They arrived on time and with no problems. In fact, a fellow yachtie was trying to track down his lost luggage from his trip back from the states and our crew found it for him at the airport! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The taxi driver was a great guy and he drove us to our favorite place in town, the local Fishing Club which was private but they welcomed us.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UA3H2lxPdraSGA7TclSHe11ybrxxeOMhYySiYdXNCoa32Y7c4oKVUFB6X4CYjy3Cn1l8MJc7nN3kZLnyeYFowPAFIFZeFmXcL-WBKhk82V6q16VQu3IlFNEXSXjYkH-E5I30V6fPPRzh/s1600/IMG_1268+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UA3H2lxPdraSGA7TclSHe11ybrxxeOMhYySiYdXNCoa32Y7c4oKVUFB6X4CYjy3Cn1l8MJc7nN3kZLnyeYFowPAFIFZeFmXcL-WBKhk82V6q16VQu3IlFNEXSXjYkH-E5I30V6fPPRzh/s640/IMG_1268+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Judy, Torben, Phil and Sylvia enjoying a cold beer at the Nuku'alofa Fishing Club, members only except for guests.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM29cettChNCptIrRBTPLlL9FWDvdQhyY1UFJktE9zvC-XP7aXTwhX6y-UVylfH9Q344oqRw4YIeiOFxQLFpp2HcjdI-raXm2JQGqsVXBAVopCkUX73bb8C0rAFzyIUIO4kAUTdL6CZlSM/s1600/IMG_0098+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM29cettChNCptIrRBTPLlL9FWDvdQhyY1UFJktE9zvC-XP7aXTwhX6y-UVylfH9Q344oqRw4YIeiOFxQLFpp2HcjdI-raXm2JQGqsVXBAVopCkUX73bb8C0rAFzyIUIO4kAUTdL6CZlSM/s640/IMG_0098+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Taking the ferry back to Pangaimotu Island</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kennan from TIMOGEN was thrilled to get lost luggage and his new starter motor. Now he could continue his journey to New Zealand. Thanks CINNABAR crew!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TDXY6RHcy5QFh8eZ8bSVojrlnFo2YQrcMldizPIVO4YhqmZgneCMUcNYla0mcdPwu2ITyBQACoPIkj753lmn9sFHt9XhVw_JL62wLfoY6S5EP95BugfY141E3GfVk-Wk8D7CZp_KTLnt/s1600/IMG_0099+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TDXY6RHcy5QFh8eZ8bSVojrlnFo2YQrcMldizPIVO4YhqmZgneCMUcNYla0mcdPwu2ITyBQACoPIkj753lmn9sFHt9XhVw_JL62wLfoY6S5EP95BugfY141E3GfVk-Wk8D7CZp_KTLnt/s640/IMG_0099+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The ferry driver was kind enough to deliver people and luggage directly to CINNABAR instead of making us do numerous dinghy trips back and forth.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The crew were able to enjoy just a couple of days in Tonga. Tom and Torben had been checking the weather for days and they both agreed that a departure in 2 days looked ideal. We did final preparations on CINNABAR, planning to leave at the same time as our friends Liam and Annie on GONE WITH THE WIND. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The last thing to get put away was the dinghy. Thanks Phil, Torben and Judy for helping. No more going to shore because we're outta here!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The plan: leave Pangaimotu Nov 6th, spend one more night at anchorage near the exit pass in Tongatapu, leave the next a.m. for Minerva Reef (another one of those reefs in the middle of the ocean), stay at Minerva for 1-2 nights as weather allows, keep looking at the weather and depart for New Zealand.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our last Tongan anchorage. Note that Gone With The Wind is in the midst of a cloud of smoke from a bonfire on the island. That's why we're far away. Early tomorrow we depart!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We've weighed anchor using our headsets so we can communicate without shouting. We'll put on our PFDs (Personal Flotation Devices) and tethers and head out the pass. Looks like a great day. Next stop Minerva Reef! (photo by Judy)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Photo Album: <a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOB_czwQy8ah3xwDY-7-3q2q2w82Pgvc3DCtGez82Px621Dd2BTmmNstZBGtRFgJg?key=SGVQRE5MazNtQWwweDZaNUdESi1oemhURVFxSDJ3" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The Kingdom of Tonga</span></a></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-27205163530099590632018-12-27T15:29:00.001-08:002019-02-11T17:53:11.475-08:00Niue - A Tiny Island Nation<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We are in New Zealand but will be posting some catch-up info about our journey from French Poly to New Zealand. We've already done posts on Legs 1 and 2.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Moving West: <br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/palmerston-atoll-visited-only-by-boat.html" target="_blank">Leg 1 Raiatea, French Polynesia to Palmerston</a>, Cook Is. (Sept 23-28), 675 nm<br /><a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.com/2018/10/beveridge-reef-submerged-mountain.html" target="_blank">Leg 2 To Beveridge Reef</a> (Oct 5-7), 288 nm<br /><span style="background-color: yellow;"><b>Leg 3 To Niue (Oct 8-9), 142 nm</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Leg 4 To Vavau, Tonga (Oct 12-14) 245 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Leg 5 To Nuku'alofa, Tonga (Oct 31-Nov 1) 168 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Leg 6 To Minerva Reef (Nov 7-8) 258 nm</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><u>Leg 7 To Opua, New Zealand, (Nov 10-14) 787 nm</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Total 2563 nm </span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Fiec5qnsJVxZtLhGdML6v4i6hiG8P1LRdV9i8xIxB-a0qrC2kOTgPiVnsIVsJShO8Pch1SCoqO7ATR7HhI5x2M56lMjKbmLDF2l-6IypF6sEJu7Zdl0gYk2qdJ3_R8HhU1Eo7ye4PNE/s1600/soPacMap.Niue.Cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="945" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Fiec5qnsJVxZtLhGdML6v4i6hiG8P1LRdV9i8xIxB-a0qrC2kOTgPiVnsIVsJShO8Pch1SCoqO7ATR7HhI5x2M56lMjKbmLDF2l-6IypF6sEJu7Zdl0gYk2qdJ3_R8HhU1Eo7ye4PNE/s640/soPacMap.Niue.Cropped.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Niue is a tiny, independent island <i>nation </i>located in the triangle between Samoa, The Cook Islands and Tonga. Niue, a raised coral atoll approximately 100 square miles in size, is a self-governing state in free association with New Zealand. Most of its diplomatic relations are conducted by New Zealand on its behalf. Niueans are New Zealand citizens and their currency is the NZ dollar. Many Niueans speak English although they have their own Polynesian-based language.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The first European to sight Niue was Captain Cook. He called the island "The Savage Island" because, as legend has it, the natives who "greeted" him had mouths that appeared to be smeared in blood. The substance on their teeth was actually <i>hulahula</i>, a native red banana. In short, Captain Cook was scared away by bananas. The Niueans were fine with that although in more modern times they didn't particularly care for being called The Savage Island. The name Niue means "Behold the coconut". </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Today they are not that sensitive about being The Savage Island as it makes for good marketing.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Niue faces a problem that many of the islands in the South Pacific are dealing with, dwindling populations (now only about 1600 persons). Most young people have to go to university in other countries such as New Zealand. Once they get used to the modern life of abundance many of them don't return permanently to their island nation. In fact, 95% of Niue's population live in NZ. Niue has implemented an interesting policy because of this. They have opened their island to anyone who wishes to live there, especially people on islands in danger of disappearing due to global warming, such as Kiribati.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nevertheless, Niue does have a good tourist industry including snorkeling, diving, whale watching, deep sea fishing, hiking and biking, caving, golfing and more. There are (a whopping!) 2 plane flights a week from Auckland, NZ).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We left Beveridge Reef for Niue with our buddy boat Y2K and had a fairly uneventful overnight trip (148 nm) to Niue. We mostly had good wind, the seas weren't too bad, just an occasional big swell, minimal drama (except for a flying fish that ricocheted off Sylvia's head), and we arrived at Niue the next afternoon accompanied by dolphins and whales on a cloudy day. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Land Ho!! Niue!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">When we arrived in Niue we were with several other boats who had sailed there from Palmerston. We were very happy to see our friends Mick and Isabel on ONDULAR (Aussie and Ecuadorian, they are heading to Australia), Oskar and Lisa on HILMA (Swedish, they are heading north to Micronesia), and of course Y2K who journeyed with us from Beveridge Reef and will continue on to New Zealand. All the other boats who had been with us in Palmerston had bypassed Beveridge and Niue to go directly to Tonga. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Niue currently has a terrific mooring field (~17 moorings) which is a good thing because there is no place to drop an anchor unless you are prepared to anchor in VERY DEEP water (>60 ft) with a rocky coral bottom. The moorings are in an open roadstead and are some of the best in the south pacific because they are regularly maintained by the tiny Niue Yacht Club (<a href="https://nyc.nu/">https://nyc.nu/</a>). Without the solid moorings, it would be much more difficult and risky to visit this place.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cinnabar on her mooring in 60'. <br />Clear water, abundant coral and fish make for good snorkeling (nearer to shore).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After grabbing our mooring we dinghied in to shore to check in with customs. The concrete dock is high up so one of us (Sylvia) had to get off, climb up some slippery concrete stairs, and use a small boat crane to hoist the dinghy up onto the pier. (there are no beach landings - the island is surrounded by a cement-like coral rock apron).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXr_KbRSDqUj5Z1dAGvI1Z0nlCt2Ml2c6kEdkSndOhGmhkTdhfFHbS3Wjsl2h4ycJUCYDYdy82T3uDEB9rcTYok3EfM9bqmnG0SjrxuQMNJvv2-T5hjN2Op5sp6C7h6Ypt_06ndrWLION8/s1600/IMG_1147+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="764" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXr_KbRSDqUj5Z1dAGvI1Z0nlCt2Ml2c6kEdkSndOhGmhkTdhfFHbS3Wjsl2h4ycJUCYDYdy82T3uDEB9rcTYok3EfM9bqmnG0SjrxuQMNJvv2-T5hjN2Op5sp6C7h6Ypt_06ndrWLION8/s640/IMG_1147+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We approach the dinghy dock and crane. Hmmm...</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Actually it was no problem and they even had a hand trolley for moving the dinghy into a parking spot after hoisting. It might appear somewhat questionable, but this hoist system is quite ingenious, works pretty well, and is rather fun to negotiate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The day after we arrived we got a radio call from Max on Y2K. It was his birthday and he invited all of us to rendezvous that afternoon for drinks and dinner at one of the local restaurants. This was pretty much the same group that had dined together with Edward on Palmerston so it was a good excuse for a reunion. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58hXgLAWbkI_WA0wHa9pM6vDt8p7yReLJNI8L7D7uTEFoDrUytKA99Egeld8RB3c3VIIEaFwK1QJK6XNqSIrAaAKJsqWFpVHNioSciUbKFzfVvZSwY07tSjPeYltBdXIhYqbMLjQumhqK/s1600/43724205_2281298278564965_1667384532841529344_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58hXgLAWbkI_WA0wHa9pM6vDt8p7yReLJNI8L7D7uTEFoDrUytKA99Egeld8RB3c3VIIEaFwK1QJK6XNqSIrAaAKJsqWFpVHNioSciUbKFzfVvZSwY07tSjPeYltBdXIhYqbMLjQumhqK/s640/43724205_2281298278564965_1667384532841529344_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alex from Y2K operates the dinghy hoist. (photo by Y2K)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1gCl0xnaiHw0-t84hhfu68a6M8U3m5sgTnQ63HDzvBxDUtxb-eq_izQAU_wniQaz7EdzeJYTwdU4IFiMZQZztxj5djnlTVRAU7IZu9Cu_iMKcie3b1VEEhz2gy28Q2joGxum_Csexe7D/s1600/DSCF2353+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="1366" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1gCl0xnaiHw0-t84hhfu68a6M8U3m5sgTnQ63HDzvBxDUtxb-eq_izQAU_wniQaz7EdzeJYTwdU4IFiMZQZztxj5djnlTVRAU7IZu9Cu_iMKcie3b1VEEhz2gy28Q2joGxum_Csexe7D/s640/DSCF2353+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Max's party with Max not in the picture! L to R Oskar and Lisa, Isa and Mick, Sylvia, Alex and Tom. (Photo by Y2K)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndMVmU8sNLc19KY3Xukezz8DMB8_4NlLT8mXXEW7RH05pljqG8vwM1qvje32amzfAhyzjq2stDYaq3UcDIEqAEqMo77g8rnhEBhFlARiOZO_CDHsi120I_m6xwdGf7cWw-vp6w-SlwxoU/s1600/44113569_2285516424809817_5205690999170400256_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="959" data-original-width="960" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndMVmU8sNLc19KY3Xukezz8DMB8_4NlLT8mXXEW7RH05pljqG8vwM1qvje32amzfAhyzjq2stDYaq3UcDIEqAEqMo77g8rnhEBhFlARiOZO_CDHsi120I_m6xwdGf7cWw-vp6w-SlwxoU/s640/44113569_2285516424809817_5205690999170400256_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Not the same day but a good photo of Max (and Alex who reached their halfway-around-the-world point during their sail to Niue. Photo by Y2K)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After spending the evening celebrating we returned to our dinghies only to find that the swell had swung to the north and we were getting some healthy wraparound swell combined with an incoming tide which made boarding our dinghies quite challenging. </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVAxm0a9O23beP4g5w-b-IIE18U0j7CCO9FlW-aMt_DGOhB4XSCj2H-ZAVhyphenhyphen-UhQt7gS01lVITxCIk29oHqpQSA3Olin_gF0LnXS7Ob3DCO0NEhlGKwhQYgP1g38NTqlTi5H0rfY-3Kd1/s1600/IMG_1168+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="687" data-original-width="994" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVAxm0a9O23beP4g5w-b-IIE18U0j7CCO9FlW-aMt_DGOhB4XSCj2H-ZAVhyphenhyphen-UhQt7gS01lVITxCIk29oHqpQSA3Olin_gF0LnXS7Ob3DCO0NEhlGKwhQYgP1g38NTqlTi5H0rfY-3Kd1/s640/IMG_1168+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mick checks out the swell crashing against the concrete while we lower Hilma's dinghy.<br />(note the "best dock light" in all of Polynesia!)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJkn7mBHSEDAnyOYVVbtoR4LIlvIezrUSWz4Fot51Xd0KdZZ3ouKHogHr0pb3srlVpilKr-kcaDdGqpB6qPV7Flcbs4BJ1x8A2FpPolnj4K4aV_QgMWm59ECuRrbWq2j7WK0qCu2tGDbk/s1600/IMG_1170+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="850" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJkn7mBHSEDAnyOYVVbtoR4LIlvIezrUSWz4Fot51Xd0KdZZ3ouKHogHr0pb3srlVpilKr-kcaDdGqpB6qPV7Flcbs4BJ1x8A2FpPolnj4K4aV_QgMWm59ECuRrbWq2j7WK0qCu2tGDbk/s640/IMG_1170+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Quick! Get in before the swell crashes you into the concrete!!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nevertheless we all made it aboard and managed to get back safely to our boats. Whew!!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next day, we rented a car with Mick and Isabel and toured around the island. Niue has very a dramatic coastline and numerous hiking "tracks", caves, caverns, and grottos which make for fun exploring.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1s67bkEWdvGaIM36tV8yhj1gfQHsDxpFfFPYjvld7K9okeL_GFQihbmz0d2pO4XUXAV-cRKSJqcU1yy9fjSHfhJfCmPUmktI60VqhZsV2R_0HbfD8J_EfUArWQHl1MrAhDyirO7ZypCo/s1600/IMG_1152+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1s67bkEWdvGaIM36tV8yhj1gfQHsDxpFfFPYjvld7K9okeL_GFQihbmz0d2pO4XUXAV-cRKSJqcU1yy9fjSHfhJfCmPUmktI60VqhZsV2R_0HbfD8J_EfUArWQHl1MrAhDyirO7ZypCo/s640/IMG_1152+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We hike along the rugged Niue coastline.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1ykJ8XQcZOwzebEOhyc73p7Lb4zIkhdqAk8g6JPH2G3pAtUHoGjyf4vcqLJZaWCwBMrXS61jIgMi2HATDQJr_6h0S78uNjHr78j7TQueR4r6PamvoJDQeuwg5tiuk5HAGIoKwdbuBP5o/s1600/IMG_1155+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="752" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1ykJ8XQcZOwzebEOhyc73p7Lb4zIkhdqAk8g6JPH2G3pAtUHoGjyf4vcqLJZaWCwBMrXS61jIgMi2HATDQJr_6h0S78uNjHr78j7TQueR4r6PamvoJDQeuwg5tiuk5HAGIoKwdbuBP5o/s640/IMG_1155+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="626" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Going down into the cavern.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLDXYhI-J0laAP4PvdPcV1uLFwsS63_VfMFYYW5pi6MCkl5f9OpqLSZhXL4uEC_DQgEqsKUtHGyZvI-UBT1w2k1OQD-jHIRFiNPOfuHsh5YCFwHTOlN9QkW_lyTj_MeRqzMKTB8wbYV8T/s640/IMG_1157+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Very impressive stalactite/stalagmite formation.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLDXYhI-J0laAP4PvdPcV1uLFwsS63_VfMFYYW5pi6MCkl5f9OpqLSZhXL4uEC_DQgEqsKUtHGyZvI-UBT1w2k1OQD-jHIRFiNPOfuHsh5YCFwHTOlN9QkW_lyTj_MeRqzMKTB8wbYV8T/s1600/IMG_1157+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2AqhKLzgm00Jlc-N5_rltGJYcVrd4kXFoXqm7Xwfpmag3UFOGRk7caTbCw9myxXjwx9wMJsD50aQ2bsGqtGT97jVByic25VM3KCpJJXmh6zUJpC6-29b82J2PPT6kuDqJXrKP1t-7iGS/s1600/IMG_1162+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="1006" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2AqhKLzgm00Jlc-N5_rltGJYcVrd4kXFoXqm7Xwfpmag3UFOGRk7caTbCw9myxXjwx9wMJsD50aQ2bsGqtGT97jVByic25VM3KCpJJXmh6zUJpC6-29b82J2PPT6kuDqJXrKP1t-7iGS/s640/IMG_1162+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We snorkeled in the crystal clear grotto.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvKErZaCu2SrBqKtrfFr83kfP3PVQT27LGOcjg9Qga7nITCGxBB2dX8-7t0h9K0YsGS6oXjcJ5fXJzcRF01TqLRnwEx3DfqXv4ct0wNdetgGlKwJfmSh2LD8DFS3FF-I9BevdeAqZyBAv/s1600/IMG_1176+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="873" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvKErZaCu2SrBqKtrfFr83kfP3PVQT27LGOcjg9Qga7nITCGxBB2dX8-7t0h9K0YsGS6oXjcJ5fXJzcRF01TqLRnwEx3DfqXv4ct0wNdetgGlKwJfmSh2LD8DFS3FF-I9BevdeAqZyBAv/s640/IMG_1176+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Beautiful coast and wacky tourists.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br />We'd heard about a crazy Sculpture Park on the island and decided to check it out. The Hikulagi Sculpture Park was established in 1997 by some local artists as a platform to create large format sculpture that discuss environmental issues with the idea that an island is a microcosm of the world. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_vcYDXuoaHGjvPm4T3MQ0AmO-moe1mU7Xd_j7UnFEZn66WHOegQ-fIeHvlKsqBTmO8Zrd2xwypO7H-739F6Ljo1uwgD6AGhLJjUPk0JBZnsBnx1HFnVLvUTUcaeBJy_Czj2VyuKLXfar/s1600/IMG_1182+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="859" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_vcYDXuoaHGjvPm4T3MQ0AmO-moe1mU7Xd_j7UnFEZn66WHOegQ-fIeHvlKsqBTmO8Zrd2xwypO7H-739F6Ljo1uwgD6AGhLJjUPk0JBZnsBnx1HFnVLvUTUcaeBJy_Czj2VyuKLXfar/s640/IMG_1182+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The sculptures use a lot of "found" materials, i.e. what was trash, and recycle it into art.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaVPlnx38gU2_Qur0z_b46OT7sjtbn-XSpnJrURoAnLq3cnsTlda4z305YF2SAl-FFLMR4pOlDSQS8uGVvwdLUZMJV3NOICVPeuhJ9qVQbIIkPDy1jQ9HAqU9T5xnMfz7snkiy2mGnHUf/s1600/IMG_1185+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaVPlnx38gU2_Qur0z_b46OT7sjtbn-XSpnJrURoAnLq3cnsTlda4z305YF2SAl-FFLMR4pOlDSQS8uGVvwdLUZMJV3NOICVPeuhJ9qVQbIIkPDy1jQ9HAqU9T5xnMfz7snkiy2mGnHUf/s640/IMG_1185+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiC4uR6y7KgcWKk6LJjy4vsM25I9fp1zDeFTDRSCsjdarIHsYwcLpYtIjbK-VrxdJGNLpDUvYUYRUWP0fp665LrDO5aP-nfDjMlij0eP5b1DK2YDA7FPNit_xkWdOBPc44z9aoPEfBqMkO/s1600/IMG_1186+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="837" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiC4uR6y7KgcWKk6LJjy4vsM25I9fp1zDeFTDRSCsjdarIHsYwcLpYtIjbK-VrxdJGNLpDUvYUYRUWP0fp665LrDO5aP-nfDjMlij0eP5b1DK2YDA7FPNit_xkWdOBPc44z9aoPEfBqMkO/s640/IMG_1186+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A good use of the plastic that had littered the beach.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A feature of the park is the Protean Habitat which invites visitors to leave their mark on Niue by adding to the sculpture. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I don't think we added anything but we did pick a few things off the ground and re-installed them.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br />We felt there was much more to do on Niue (so we might return someday), but that wraparound swell from the north was making our anchorage uncomfortably bouncy. We bounced in Palmerston, we bounced in Beveridge, and now we were bouncing in Niue? No more bounce!! We checked the weather and decided it was a good weather window to head to northern Tonga. We said goodbye to Mick and Isa on ONDULAR, hoping to see them in Tonga, also goodbye to HILMA knowing it was unlikely we would cross paths again, and left with Y2K bound for the Vava'u group in Tonga.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Leg 3 Trip Totals:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance sailed = 148 nautical miles (Beveridge to Niue)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Duration = 22.0 hrs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Avg speed = 6.5 kts. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Motored = 3.2 hrs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;"><b>PHOTO ALBUM <a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNLarWhmIqKXcU1qlj1XHsTf14Ec0SSzmfCjJei7gHA3q36GSJKlZoxJhUyCOphKw?key=X3JLN0tGa0h4Qk1TSnF4SF9rcXBQaWc0QWk2N25R" target="_blank">:<span style="color: red;"> BEVERIDGE REEF AND NIUE</span></a></b></span><br />
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-81500120755115632492018-11-24T14:57:00.006-08:002018-11-24T15:00:38.875-08:00Look Right First - Cinnabar's In New Zealand!<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We can't believe it's been exactly one month since our last update. The past month has been super busy and we promise we'll do some more thorough updates soon. Much has happened since we left Beveridge Reef bound for Niue and Tonga.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">When we finally made it to Southern Tonga we rendezvoused with our incredible and talented crew who had flown in from California via New Zealand. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Just off the plane, Judy, Torben, Phil (and Sylvia) enjoying the local Tiki Beer in Tonga.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were very lucky to recruit sailing friends Judy and Torben (who are currently in the Caribbean cruising their Beneteau TIVOLI) and Phil, Express 27 racer from the SF Bay Area who has sailed several passages with Judy and Torben.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In short, we had a fabulous sail from Nuku Alofa, Tonga to New Zealand. I was a bit worried because my cold-weather sailing shoes and boots had become destroyed in the tropical weather. The soles were either slick-hard or permanently gooey, ick. But our weather window for the journey was so pleasant that we mostly went barefoot and Tevas with socks were more than adequate for the coolest times.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb3aNekZQUXJkuKB2OeIrr8kt-9xlGDD-8300ILN66FiuR-u2jVmYhaVVFrscblsIaoSWrFciVdXrim7vQ5iTrQ3zCNBgXNCo318PxeyddBrQUiP9f2VGVR53LdPNALZkdaCN1EE6FmJ7d/s1600/IMG_1297+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb3aNekZQUXJkuKB2OeIrr8kt-9xlGDD-8300ILN66FiuR-u2jVmYhaVVFrscblsIaoSWrFciVdXrim7vQ5iTrQ3zCNBgXNCo318PxeyddBrQUiP9f2VGVR53LdPNALZkdaCN1EE6FmJ7d/s640/IMG_1297+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Judy geared up for the cool weather, still barefoot.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia's ready for early a.m. watch.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After a terrific passage (one which is notorious for being very challenging) including a short stop at Northern Minerva Reef (more about that later) we arrived in Opua, NZ to check into the country.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzZx-zks5MMlSHUlHFHTMKXEczgi6F8AvQ6pmGiJ0AtieW2Zgyt9bh7kzQYbDTC2bHuF7zIyOu9F7yJM7lPLGXR7hnXY5sPR3qoPrglVOi1RAOAVN62BdwyJ9-Vl5qjJIZUMLpmfuDKwg6/s1600/IMG_1326+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzZx-zks5MMlSHUlHFHTMKXEczgi6F8AvQ6pmGiJ0AtieW2Zgyt9bh7kzQYbDTC2bHuF7zIyOu9F7yJM7lPLGXR7hnXY5sPR3qoPrglVOi1RAOAVN62BdwyJ9-Vl5qjJIZUMLpmfuDKwg6/s640/IMG_1326+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cinnabar and crew on the Q (quarantine) dock waiting to get visited by Customs.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After checking in we journeyed south to the town of Whangarei (pronounced Fong-ah-ray) which will be our home base for the time being.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We absolutely love what we've seen of NZ so far and we look forward to exploring more of the country. The hardest thing has been to remember to Look Right First before crossing the street. Look right, THEN look left because here in NZ people drive on the left side of the street. </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhynzQYoY_hlIYqEXk69fO8rofRAVLd077pg6Kttygkt2tsjkIeyX21nVi4F2D7ciWIxaldQoJMFYUbAIkpPFSxccxzw2WYhwuP9ipRqIzCSuNku9iaerRPPV2KcfMxvEW_52ZTgZC9uKIO/s1600/IMG_1368+-+Copy+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhynzQYoY_hlIYqEXk69fO8rofRAVLd077pg6Kttygkt2tsjkIeyX21nVi4F2D7ciWIxaldQoJMFYUbAIkpPFSxccxzw2WYhwuP9ipRqIzCSuNku9iaerRPPV2KcfMxvEW_52ZTgZC9uKIO/s640/IMG_1368+-+Copy+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">The crew (in crew t-shirts) at Cinnabar's new "home" in Whangarei, New Zealand. We made it!!!</span><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Coming up: Niue, Tonga, Passage to NZ, Pictures.</b></span></span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-73162420954421291492018-10-25T13:47:00.002-07:002018-10-25T13:47:58.893-07:00Beveridge Reef - A Submerged, Hidden Mountain Stopover<div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Can you see the breakers in the distance?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Can you imagine stopping in the middle of the ocean and dropping your anchor for the night? Well, it is possible if there is a submerged reef/atoll out there with an entrance pass into a shallow-enough lagoon. Beveridge Reef, actually a submerged mountain, is such a place. It is located between Palmerston Atoll and Niue Island and makes for a convenient and intriguing stopping place, IF conditions allow.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.cruiserswiki.org/wiki/Beveridge_Reef" target="_blank">Beveridge Reef</a> has a mysterious allure. It rises up directly from the sea floor, 16,000 ft below. It is hard to see (i.e., lies all underwater; there is no land) and wild (no people). Its location is ambiguously charted ("reported to lie 3 miles NE of shown position" - what?! Google Earth satellite imagery shows just a vague smudge). Cruisers often have to abandon their attempts to visit the awash atoll because the weather is frequently stormy here. It lies in the So. Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ) region which carries frequent overcast/windy/rainy/swell/nasty conditions. There are a couple of reported shipwreck remains here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With hopeful anticipation and and a promising weather window, three of the boats that departed Palmerston decided to aim for a stop at Beveridge and to wait out a predicted 24 hr. windless period. CINNABAR, Y2K (with Italians Max and Alex), and FREYA (with Texan Lewis and South African Jules) all converged at Beveridge within hours of each other, in calm, sunny conditions. As we approached the general area, we gave our reported GPS waypoints a wide berth until we could actually see breakers in the distance. At about 4 nm away, the white breaking waves, the light blue under-clouds that reflected the shallow water in the reef, and a catamaran at anchor within, showed us exactly where Beveridge was. The catamaran assured us on the VHF radio that as we approached the reef, we would be able to see and readily negotiate the pass through the hidden reef.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After lining up on the pass (using the waypoints given in the above cruising website link) and with a big dose of faith, we increased engine power, monitored our instruments, maintained a keen watch of the sea ahead, and cautiously crept our way forward through the shoaling depths of entrance and finally into the sizable lagoon.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I'm wearing my polarized sunglasses to help identify the shallow spots (and a wireless mic/headset). The pass entrance is dead ahead with breakers to the left and to the right. We saw 24 ft of depth at one point, which is quite shallow. There was 4 knots of ebbing current flushing out the pass against a modest long period (2 meter, 14 sec) SW swell rolling in the pass, on the western side.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">At one point, we became a little unnerved as it first appeared as if there was no gap at all in the waves breaking ahead. Where is the so-called pass? But then, as we got closer, we saw a gap of flat water in the <i>near distance.</i> The waves that initially appeared to be breaking across the pass were actually an optical illusion from the waves on the <i>far distance</i> shoreline, way across the opposite side of the lagoon. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Whew - ok - got it.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">FREYA followed us right in through the moderately turbulent waters.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAhnqyj0dGZfdKRueyJri3ZKsZar16HyxWgB0OnmPQq5bNHOfiS3dtpmqrr8T7Wh1VHLHCtQ9CAOVWL0xfQ3Mk1qyLB6AoT4sIqFpJu2ta_QQ5KwurPIWPWcVs4SPMEsv4YWUOdAXC94k/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-10-24-17h52m10s513.bevReefPass.lookingWNW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAhnqyj0dGZfdKRueyJri3ZKsZar16HyxWgB0OnmPQq5bNHOfiS3dtpmqrr8T7Wh1VHLHCtQ9CAOVWL0xfQ3Mk1qyLB6AoT4sIqFpJu2ta_QQ5KwurPIWPWcVs4SPMEsv4YWUOdAXC94k/s640/vlcsnap-2018-10-24-17h52m10s513.bevReefPass.lookingWNW.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Looking WNW from a drone's eye view, the pass is very obvious. Not so much when at sea level.<br />(all drone pics are courtesy of Max on Y2K)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Once inside it was flat and calm and blue, blue, blue. And silent. And full of a kind of <i>mana</i> (spirit). We idled around the inside periphery of this ocean 'lake', sounding the depths for a while, and spying one of the shipwrecks. We found that the entire lagoon has a depth of about 30-40 feet, and a sandy bottom with only scattered low coral heads, making for good anchoring. After selecting a spot on the SE corner, we dropped anchor and fully relaxed. It was noon time and a beautifully bright and sunny day. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We first made a trip to the top of the mast to take some pictures, and then enjoyed an exploration snorkel in the severely clear water.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7D66kk3TI2q9ev-D2Djpk0I1dpHEZR1zqTupUwf0op7SJsCLkQE7sD1_AuI0ioWllmtKqk5EuDWf1QADvVX6VtEkQtMS-xi096i6s_bC2buMH6bV1X42SpxNUAGs_rxraWb7rlm7lI9A/s1600/IMG_1121+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7D66kk3TI2q9ev-D2Djpk0I1dpHEZR1zqTupUwf0op7SJsCLkQE7sD1_AuI0ioWllmtKqk5EuDWf1QADvVX6VtEkQtMS-xi096i6s_bC2buMH6bV1X42SpxNUAGs_rxraWb7rlm7lI9A/s640/IMG_1121+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">View of CINNABAR from the top of the mast.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgxLkX8Xf9jdxtEUOIsjzgVqVoKfF9QWWMcVdb4Q5lbKXRTb805oG9qNibEybkpKeVA0JYnCQLhLWfRaSfFbEsVgknZqJiwdleCO5-LAwmXm2YR5Fc_ZC6ZMgwxNeV5fS0sSVKFOhVwQ/s1600/2.bevReefLookingN.cinnabar.y2k.Max.Drone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgxLkX8Xf9jdxtEUOIsjzgVqVoKfF9QWWMcVdb4Q5lbKXRTb805oG9qNibEybkpKeVA0JYnCQLhLWfRaSfFbEsVgknZqJiwdleCO5-LAwmXm2YR5Fc_ZC6ZMgwxNeV5fS0sSVKFOhVwQ/s640/2.bevReefLookingN.cinnabar.y2k.Max.Drone.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Y2K (closer) and CINNABAR (farther) from the drone, looking north.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jFJm7NxnJA-Uhzv8TPiayeibWXCl2rOX7JRYnkKi2YG7hlEGne96j9KJzFJbHoPpmJ__r4bwWEmlTqtDazAlA77Ruc5nodVnVX7RxnEe3fDPUr_YDNskWxEX_vIb82g3RcFKQwzPfiIC/s1600/IMG_1125+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jFJm7NxnJA-Uhzv8TPiayeibWXCl2rOX7JRYnkKi2YG7hlEGne96j9KJzFJbHoPpmJ__r4bwWEmlTqtDazAlA77Ruc5nodVnVX7RxnEe3fDPUr_YDNskWxEX_vIb82g3RcFKQwzPfiIC/s640/IMG_1125+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Y2K (closer boat) and FREYA anchored nearby. It is open ocean on the other side of the breakers.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Underwater, as expected, it was a broad sandy plain interrupted by sporadic, random rocky bommies harboring the usual small reef fish varieties as expected. There were some sting rays, hordes of hermit crabs, and a 5' shark of some unidentified 'serious' variety that shadowed us the whole time we were in the water. What makes the place special is the pristine wild condition, it's lack of human impact, it's enormous remoteness, the sea life's surprising lack of wariness, and just the striking play of bright sunlight in the clear water on the shallow white sandy bottomscape canvass. Together with the infinite forms of blue hues all around, it was simply one of those mesmerizing experiences. We swam around in a sort of hypnotic, astonished daze. It was the type of reward we hoped to gain from living this nomadic aquatic life.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iGqzG1Xtr2diuOsVFfHFokXpteAAXgenYlLkX-n-HDD2pYXoSwg3Pkj0DdAepjkA6vD22z2h_tFIdI3SKmqrzixc4-NWu70yQczoQGH24R0nJseRx5w0ztpy5x7KK6CIcUsMA_ddcqw/s1600/GOPR4468.beverReefSly+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-iGqzG1Xtr2diuOsVFfHFokXpteAAXgenYlLkX-n-HDD2pYXoSwg3Pkj0DdAepjkA6vD22z2h_tFIdI3SKmqrzixc4-NWu70yQczoQGH24R0nJseRx5w0ztpy5x7KK6CIcUsMA_ddcqw/s640/GOPR4468.beverReefSly+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia Exploring.<br /></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJhsUUMahzhB-zOmve8KKz9v8IHOsVI4Q1VxoetWbxiJbHK3YZ-hGMvRuSbS1NVvYji9jav7R0ymL5UP1upmmwgIXczKrjU_KspG0iIVdxf1u_4DyFU0aGmjC1IjZDzD2nE9LQ643zVE/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-10-19-14h49m39s528.bevReefFish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJhsUUMahzhB-zOmve8KKz9v8IHOsVI4Q1VxoetWbxiJbHK3YZ-hGMvRuSbS1NVvYji9jav7R0ymL5UP1upmmwgIXczKrjU_KspG0iIVdxf1u_4DyFU0aGmjC1IjZDzD2nE9LQ643zVE/s640/vlcsnap-2018-10-19-14h49m39s528.bevReefFish.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The fish were curious and unlike most places, not skittish.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RTOBGe7K5TFnbPhquZD6ODgxpOJGKKVZAbQAmjMcn4lTsq8owk6iMac7THSvXVw3dRT-HnFchMFyjd-tANq2xyyiOHiXa_xB7iXMbnDndQSd-Sd8o54TTeLL0O1qvPrAXp3gLpxjjfk/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-10-19-14h24m03s236.bevReefTC.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RTOBGe7K5TFnbPhquZD6ODgxpOJGKKVZAbQAmjMcn4lTsq8owk6iMac7THSvXVw3dRT-HnFchMFyjd-tANq2xyyiOHiXa_xB7iXMbnDndQSd-Sd8o54TTeLL0O1qvPrAXp3gLpxjjfk/s320/vlcsnap-2018-10-19-14h24m03s236.bevReefTC.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Checking the anchor set and the clear visibility.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Later in the afternoon, after we had been basking in our good fortune and pristine conditions, some surprises arose. As the tide came in, and the water level in the lagoon rose, the bouncing began. The groundswell outside the reef was no longer being blocked, so wave chop inside the lagoon steadily increased and started tossing the boats around in a rather annoying and uncomfortable manner. Moreover, the skies became overcast and gloomy. Wow - that was a rapid change. It calmed down again that night at low tide, but after the bounce returned in the morning, all three boats decided to forego another day at Beveridge and continue on our way westward. CINNABAR and Y2K would go to Niue (FREYA planned to head farther on, directly to Tonga). Hopefully Niue would be less bouncy and rolly!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was regretful that our visit was to be so short. Another day or two of snorkeling and exploring would have been optimal, but the sizable ocean groundswell kept it from being so. We would especially have liked to snorkel the area close to, but just south of, the pass. There is probably more abundant sea life action there.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOkOCcyCy2M2AnpX7F-BytaTSUj-p2rxn1HE5UL9cQutE2Z-rGj04ietCK9FJUXorHvKvJSzDIM4_uzzmDOFWSOTU4kWQ6AfOMDg9mO1wsooOrevJHOHdTaHH71rITesD5UcXh4Wg1Ao/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-10-18-11h52m03s457.bevReef.atRest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOkOCcyCy2M2AnpX7F-BytaTSUj-p2rxn1HE5UL9cQutE2Z-rGj04ietCK9FJUXorHvKvJSzDIM4_uzzmDOFWSOTU4kWQ6AfOMDg9mO1wsooOrevJHOHdTaHH71rITesD5UcXh4Wg1Ao/s640/vlcsnap-2018-10-18-11h52m03s457.bevReef.atRest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Before the bouncy-rolly waves arrived.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Exiting the atoll was very straightforward. The tide was near slack in the AM and we just followed our same arrival GPS track in reverse. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We are grateful to have experienced this unique, far away speck of ocean. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">There is a pair of other similar mostly-submerged atolls on the route between Tonga and New Zealand. They are called the </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minerva_Reefs" style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Minerva Reefs</a><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">and are frequently used as a temporary shelter for boats transiting between the two countries. We may well stop there too in the near future if it helps with our passage to NZ.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Trip Totals:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance sailed = 293 nautical miles (Palmerston to Beveridge)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Avg speed = 6.3 kts.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Duration = 46.5 hrs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Motored = 29.9 hrs. (some for battery charging, some because of light wind)</span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-47405366380319867352018-10-21T16:45:00.000-07:002019-02-11T16:42:11.847-08:00Palmerston Atoll - Visited Only By Boat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The residents of this unique atoll are all descendnts of a single settler. William Marsters, an English carpenter from a passing ship, settled this atoll in 1863 with his 3 Polynesian wives. He then had 17 children (at the time,) and 54 grand-children. His descendants have traditionally welcomed seafarers for many years. Although Palmerston is administered by the Cook Islands, the family was granted full ownership of the island in 1954.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nowadays, there are three families (about 60 people total) living there now and they "sponsor" or host the yachties who stop there on their migration westward. They say about 60 boats per year take an open roadstead mooring and visit the island.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">During our stay, there were eventually 9 boats in the anchorage and the yachties were split up between the 3 families. We, along with 3 other boats, were sponsored by Edward and his family.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We contacted Edward and his nephew-in-law Will in advance of our arrival. They very much appreciate it when cruisers are able to transport specific requested supplies/goods to the atoll. <b>Contact info: edwardjohndickmarsters@hotmail.com and/or willrowenaut@gmail.com.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our first trip ashore with Edward (driving), customs officers Godley and Sheila.<br /> (Sheila is the island's visiting nurse and hails from Papua New Guinea, of all places).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As Tom and I attached Cinnabar to her mooring buoy we were pleasantly surprised to see a long, sandy beach lying parallel to the wind. This could be a possible kiting location! And with the big winds coming up Tom might be able to get some more days of kiting under his belt. He was excited.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Every morning the local pangas would drive out the pass to the mooring field, pick up their yachties, and transport us to the various beaches and houses to spend the day with our sponsors, walk around the island, or do whatever we wanted.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Friendly Palmerston Residents</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmvxDRTJgoLpO_O-zLGtP8TIFuXIRbbbaLgSYMCKP5jRD_ag59-tfphMShmpj-rpeTN_rPPDrRWCiiERTZlYpZSXO6YnYtFJKPVO4Pzjjz__mBC_rdMz2QTjUNHW412JFsw5cb5DibyRc/s1600/IMG_0016+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="864" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmvxDRTJgoLpO_O-zLGtP8TIFuXIRbbbaLgSYMCKP5jRD_ag59-tfphMShmpj-rpeTN_rPPDrRWCiiERTZlYpZSXO6YnYtFJKPVO4Pzjjz__mBC_rdMz2QTjUNHW412JFsw5cb5DibyRc/s640/IMG_0016+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">My contact Will (a Kiwi, one of 3 non-Marsters residents) and his wife Fiftieth, Fifty for short. She's Edward's niece and one of the islands schoolteachers.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8B2Km1tcYbU9TBlHiLo8THxB92f8H9C5WywwSd3nnJRtMTZdZMxJQg0QpAbPEtBBDgek6zLywiIlH0XnMgdn3Zd3ovmEhnhdzMTBS9AzDKWZdJn8KljUGIGqwzhGqcrMhzJOVot3QPR80/s1600/IMG_9988+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8B2Km1tcYbU9TBlHiLo8THxB92f8H9C5WywwSd3nnJRtMTZdZMxJQg0QpAbPEtBBDgek6zLywiIlH0XnMgdn3Zd3ovmEhnhdzMTBS9AzDKWZdJn8KljUGIGqwzhGqcrMhzJOVot3QPR80/s640/IMG_9988+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">William Marster's original house. Nobody lives there now.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXNXcsTvRG1N0uczkgIuYPccwz3k5WJ8rCgT5gvaQzg2AftQBWssNepgh4VKypYaEL4OimUbXFtpE0MPtY3mtiGqlgrFWSqunICyx0Zuw73xWDrgCVtRncQzJVUi3fT_DvN9Z8O7BF6LR/s1600/IMG_9996+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJXNXcsTvRG1N0uczkgIuYPccwz3k5WJ8rCgT5gvaQzg2AftQBWssNepgh4VKypYaEL4OimUbXFtpE0MPtY3mtiGqlgrFWSqunICyx0Zuw73xWDrgCVtRncQzJVUi3fT_DvN9Z8O7BF6LR/s640/IMG_9996+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Another Palmerston resident.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On Sunday we all attended church. The ladies were instructed to wear a hat and dresses that come below the knee and don't show shoulders.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8jxaUl39zKLk5u_lMHs8-1qkPG36iFXqSWI5Yr3aOW_gXEBQSiHLzYlaHzFPHPNlZ8G0OBBXwxODNxgL5LWNxr6zMYOimEMZ98cnPOSVpidoHi2M9oZnMCRDjHGz_KqufrSoYGJ4NvA0/s1600/IMG_1056+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8jxaUl39zKLk5u_lMHs8-1qkPG36iFXqSWI5Yr3aOW_gXEBQSiHLzYlaHzFPHPNlZ8G0OBBXwxODNxgL5LWNxr6zMYOimEMZ98cnPOSVpidoHi2M9oZnMCRDjHGz_KqufrSoYGJ4NvA0/s640/IMG_1056+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nicole and Audrey (SMETANA), Sylvia (CINNABAR) and Alex (Y2K) ready for church.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sure enough, the winds came and Tom was able to get in 4 days of kiting. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMPFaxLjDH06_s6lYninyiJbz_l1Fk-q2Jw30TxlJHOCo-TNmxEaH7zyWiiwYgCbZ_xyk1KABQh2tlwLSwNtgGDjMtRVdbAUOZq9lUF988QyPrvCedXnqNjo0NeitmBrsnV_RB9_tmz9G/s1600/palmerston.kiting.22kts.vlcsnap-2018-10-18-12h01m28s774_cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="876" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMPFaxLjDH06_s6lYninyiJbz_l1Fk-q2Jw30TxlJHOCo-TNmxEaH7zyWiiwYgCbZ_xyk1KABQh2tlwLSwNtgGDjMtRVdbAUOZq9lUF988QyPrvCedXnqNjo0NeitmBrsnV_RB9_tmz9G/s640/palmerston.kiting.22kts.vlcsnap-2018-10-18-12h01m28s774_cr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kiting at Palmerston...who knew? <br />(winds 18-29 kts, 7m and 10m kites)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pTpKh2dkjnkXUf1ISG38LLEcTo_sKgrkJAI3qEq2Qd7WSlibCzRJB6c-ZxYXACYzkH5cfp7xerc1CJIeWVdHuX2KwWRVfBMjYSxLYMzu9hf4uUWlMhZ2TBDD5KOnmLFySqLuTJyJVEds/s1600/IMG_1076+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pTpKh2dkjnkXUf1ISG38LLEcTo_sKgrkJAI3qEq2Qd7WSlibCzRJB6c-ZxYXACYzkH5cfp7xerc1CJIeWVdHuX2KwWRVfBMjYSxLYMzu9hf4uUWlMhZ2TBDD5KOnmLFySqLuTJyJVEds/s640/IMG_1076+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom had a bad take-off; a sudden gust and too shallow water. His wounds were patched up at the local clinic.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAL9NDqycUBHTxFyL34TZO_U0s1T7Jj6UyDzx2qplgQSBv3OzC1AE_29-kkE5DYJb2BxBdh6AJ5GFKV07wbtiHf53fDgdBpb3bs5VMTOUebwDzummIiqozoJTV7G8MNPiSEP1QfN75yTrP/s1600/IMG_1064+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAL9NDqycUBHTxFyL34TZO_U0s1T7Jj6UyDzx2qplgQSBv3OzC1AE_29-kkE5DYJb2BxBdh6AJ5GFKV07wbtiHf53fDgdBpb3bs5VMTOUebwDzummIiqozoJTV7G8MNPiSEP1QfN75yTrP/s640/IMG_1064+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The beautiful beach where Tom did his kite ops and launching. I waded in the shallows and watched stingrays.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was so windy that one of the heavier boats broke its mooring and had to re-moor. Edward and his son came out to drop another mooring and attach it to CINNABAR and Y2K (a Beneteau) as a backup. Luckily we stayed secure.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ad3GrhF-weD6ZiO01__9ucUT-SENYcClxQAQdKszn5lXCCWMfLKpP6vGHFEkE-ne7eW16mnup5cGbWzyThzdYR5CNHfUWW8y8SBPccD-41uWJsGlUu0e8it84Zhm7xh5iKM5Pnp3OAIC/s1600/IMG_1077+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ad3GrhF-weD6ZiO01__9ucUT-SENYcClxQAQdKszn5lXCCWMfLKpP6vGHFEkE-ne7eW16mnup5cGbWzyThzdYR5CNHfUWW8y8SBPccD-41uWJsGlUu0e8it84Zhm7xh5iKM5Pnp3OAIC/s640/IMG_1077+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Edward and son John conduct maintenance on the Moorings.<br />(Anchoring is not desirable - the rocky shelf below is full of coral - although it is possible if the moorings are full and only in the area your host specifies.)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Snorkeling the reef from the boat was also excellent, very healthy coral, giant napolean wrasses, and lots of fish life. The occasional turtle would surface nearby and we got daily visits from humpback whales. Tom even saw one whale in the water when he was doing an underwater repair.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Since there are no stores or restaurants on the island our host families would feed us a big lunch every day. Often it was their locally caught parrot fish prepared in numerous delicious ways. Catching and exporting parrot fish is the islands one industry. Each family has several large freezers which hold the parrot fish fillets until the supply ship arrives to bring goods and take the frozen fish back to Rarotonga to be used by the resort restaurants. An impressive solar farm (~120 panels, ~40 kV?), installed in 2015, replaced the island's generators and allow the residents to keep as many freezers running as they like. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Other amenities on the island include internet, wifi, cell, and TV service (all by satellite), a school and teachers, health clinic and nurse, water catchment systems, tractors, quads, scooters, workshops, and a mahogany tree forest. However, there is no suitable big-ship pass into the lagoon, nor harbor or wharf. Also, the residents continue to veto building an airport of any sort (in order to maintain their semi-isolation).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">One of the other sponsors, Bill, invited us to have ice cream at his place every day. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PmXa3r8fW1mVIlKenn_LC2rpnbROEKCjf9p_FL_sanDunjdB5RPg9xgEsaecQHwLYvGn7zHYhCC0J7zdLXAzYdsOcB1bsHj7LKt4BRy0XqOkTrCLrkhM1UfUhRVYJt5yYwOr91XcHpvE/s1600/IMG_0011+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="945" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PmXa3r8fW1mVIlKenn_LC2rpnbROEKCjf9p_FL_sanDunjdB5RPg9xgEsaecQHwLYvGn7zHYhCC0J7zdLXAzYdsOcB1bsHj7LKt4BRy0XqOkTrCLrkhM1UfUhRVYJt5yYwOr91XcHpvE/s640/IMG_0011+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The island had a "garage sale" and Bill found a lovely brassiere into which he fashioned a hat. Nice going Bill!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrhKuYhEeNNjbbuR5VL1ReqU102LLhcMbN9ez7qISbT1k5W3zFl2Q35kqni-jksjDFvw1tHb358_eRH-hdPXaraUZ5hw-s1CcLeWGun7zpwQ-5nqp545arJChd5m7iNhUJyH1VJe7gDBX/s1600/IMG_0042+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1080" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrhKuYhEeNNjbbuR5VL1ReqU102LLhcMbN9ez7qISbT1k5W3zFl2Q35kqni-jksjDFvw1tHb358_eRH-hdPXaraUZ5hw-s1CcLeWGun7zpwQ-5nqp545arJChd5m7iNhUJyH1VJe7gDBX/s640/IMG_0042+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Some of the yachties with Bill's wife Matua. While we were at Palmerston there were sailors from Italy, Ecuador, Australia, Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, France, Canada, South Africa and the U.S.A</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were compelled to stay an extra day since host family Bob was throwing a birthday party for their yachtie, Anthony from Australia. All the yachties were invited and we enjoyed a table loaded with meat, fish, poisson cru, rice and vegetables. And a chocolate birthday cake!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZ_5-IJMYTqoAZs8X-5mXu_xpKGb9MwljgbL6-dBoZFeu_u2DMLmjEgB7cOBe0cZpaebo54xPSf4bmnJzgsVFVbXkXglFNGPICMRjyVm_0RevjyQWStzhIcBWRn2DuKTuRWU6yXq3HMlw/s1600/IMG_0038+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZ_5-IJMYTqoAZs8X-5mXu_xpKGb9MwljgbL6-dBoZFeu_u2DMLmjEgB7cOBe0cZpaebo54xPSf4bmnJzgsVFVbXkXglFNGPICMRjyVm_0RevjyQWStzhIcBWRn2DuKTuRWU6yXq3HMlw/s640/IMG_0038+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A full table. Oscar (Swedish boat HILMA) fills his plate while Max (Italian boat Y2K) enjoys lunch.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I was shocked to see a California Chardonnay on the table. Anthony had brought it and he told me it was his last bottle. I got so excited he generously filled my glass up to make sure I got plenty.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmGEwiRJPE3i8-KuCHHf3dacUzOV1M-KQzDIL8_wqtuFgZT_UKzfllR9MSZ51m0tog_1mZEn5ayyw1a-jg6h039Y-7VCdbWEVLITH57KZvJjR51Jt9l4GTuYBZh0vALYeQbkffh21iOEt/s1600/IMG_0041+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmGEwiRJPE3i8-KuCHHf3dacUzOV1M-KQzDIL8_wqtuFgZT_UKzfllR9MSZ51m0tog_1mZEn5ayyw1a-jg6h039Y-7VCdbWEVLITH57KZvJjR51Jt9l4GTuYBZh0vALYeQbkffh21iOEt/s640/IMG_0041+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">La Crema Chardonnay from Sonoma.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On the mooring and mostly protected from the E to SE swell, we waited out the wind event in relative comfort, although it did get a bit bouncy at the end. After enjoying the extreme hospitality at Palmerston for a week we were ready to head to our next destination, the island of Niue with a short stop at Beveridge Reef (weather permitting). After Edward and his sons brought us out to Cinnabar for the final time we urged them to stay aboard for some cold beers and conversation. Edward played my ukulele and he and his sons sang several songs for us. We watched the sun set and they stayed as long as they possibly could, leaving with just enough light for them to make out the pass between the treacherous coral heads in their lagoon.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXT43Y1nyO6qTv5F3rRKvo15eQz2iwqXWG9kVLyhaxRcAHxUzWKWKWVrpRefNhkglLNBSMSl8UrTbwovgVobCygBIXvgPX5zZytrvveYCkkw1VOid6uWYxcUyRyRYnrW384Lza8g9VVyo/s1600/IMG_1087+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXT43Y1nyO6qTv5F3rRKvo15eQz2iwqXWG9kVLyhaxRcAHxUzWKWKWVrpRefNhkglLNBSMSl8UrTbwovgVobCygBIXvgPX5zZytrvveYCkkw1VOid6uWYxcUyRyRYnrW384Lza8g9VVyo/s640/IMG_1087+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our host Edward (R) and his two sons David (L - who cooked all the meals) and John (Middle), a very nice family. David has also worked on a ship and has visited all 15 of the other Cook Islands. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Palmerston is a very unique place and it held many pleasant surprises for us. We'll never forget the island and its generous residents.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnURvPiJcElBckxi1jp6gHnAyQi0xkAjhfFaQaNriabHxV2tI6XLAxrSOcyVzz9PrjSLOasfGw8utORJqJEGmjAQ0f6nvib1H9lLfGUAb9P2UOaggZo2FRrWiGdrqZBjWvlGUYdkUbby8V/s1600/IMG_1021+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnURvPiJcElBckxi1jp6gHnAyQi0xkAjhfFaQaNriabHxV2tI6XLAxrSOcyVzz9PrjSLOasfGw8utORJqJEGmjAQ0f6nvib1H9lLfGUAb9P2UOaggZo2FRrWiGdrqZBjWvlGUYdkUbby8V/s640/IMG_1021+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cinnabar on her mooring at Palmerston.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>ALBUM: <a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipObBj4i12XtrrbOKhhtLmJPzBQQ1NbFVo4IqbFOTFpdYploTQvdUEeGijCKxk3y2A?key=NFYzdVJISkVMd0J6YTJlaDRHR1BOTW5nN2hLOXJn" target="_blank"><span style="color: lime;">Palmerston Atoll</span></a></b></span></h4>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-57465684331599025212018-10-02T23:58:00.000-07:002018-12-27T15:11:46.533-08:00Passage Notes - Days 5 & 6 - FP (Raiatea) to Cooks (Palmerston Is.)<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikdlFC6C5591Oe7H-48RppnPSy-wbawXI2LmAdklnHT8bIwIBKS2Se6uUlEU6iCQVCd3RPXlquIvMDfY_uB2Uhoo_LIqYGP_dAG5HpiuHixOTA-ZlYS4Q1r7_EsV_N7BDGFjmvpsy14dE/s1600/IMG_1004.enroutePalmerstonBowShot+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikdlFC6C5591Oe7H-48RppnPSy-wbawXI2LmAdklnHT8bIwIBKS2Se6uUlEU6iCQVCd3RPXlquIvMDfY_uB2Uhoo_LIqYGP_dAG5HpiuHixOTA-ZlYS4Q1r7_EsV_N7BDGFjmvpsy14dE/s640/IMG_1004.enroutePalmerstonBowShot+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From The Bow - Broad reaching in nice conditions but softening winds. Makes it vastly easier to deal with the inevitable equipment issues that arise.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Panda's Not Happy:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Day #5</b>: The Fischer-Panda Genset started making a horrible noise (like loud popcorn - high voltage sparking?). Gah! Not believing in coincidences, Tom thought the noise might have something to do with the recent water leak inside the genset box. Instead of charging using the genset we had to use the engine, plus our solar since it was a sunny day. The good news - since our water heats only by engine, we would have hot water for showers that night! Tom went back to trouble-shooting the genset as well as going around the deck with a screwdriver to tighten loose screws. Turns out our vang (which holds the boom up) tang had a few screws loose (pun intended) so he attended to those as well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We discovered that our lazy bag (bag into which the mainsail drops, keeping it more or less in order) has a few problems. The bolt-rope was coming out of the boom track and we secured our third reefing line in the wrong location on the boom which was ripping out the sail slides (bolt rope and slides keep the bag attached to the boom). We discussed the bolt-rope problem and reckoned it was caused by 1) the lazy jacks which are too tight at the back (we just installed new ones with a new configuration), and/or 2) the location of the third reefing line. We decided to wait for the wind to abate before attacking these problems.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcKpqTtviLRJc8z-9Brdw1T2Dy-d5VmhpNT7mx34AlMIFYOSkj8quOT9YLkarddqRRMUPiBqSE3uvXTL6EgKGSV2hCOK5jVc19qM96LvmRri5etlIq7EbTaayPyDpRb6YgnxGTr-De4I/s1600/IMG_1005.enroutePalmerstonSunset+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcKpqTtviLRJc8z-9Brdw1T2Dy-d5VmhpNT7mx34AlMIFYOSkj8quOT9YLkarddqRRMUPiBqSE3uvXTL6EgKGSV2hCOK5jVc19qM96LvmRri5etlIq7EbTaayPyDpRb6YgnxGTr-De4I/s640/IMG_1005.enroutePalmerstonSunset+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic sunset shot aboard - this good weather is how one becomes lured into doing another long passage. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The weather forecast indicated this might be our last pleasant day. It was calling for it go squally tomorrow, followed by a big wind and wave event that will last through next Wednesday. (This is Thursday.) The boats that were at Palmerston have all left to seek shelter at Niue which has better protection. We discussed diverting to Niue, but reckon we would have at least 1.5 days of rotten sailing in big winds and huge seas before arriving there. We also have a "social mission" in Palmerston, more about that in a later post. We decided to maintain the course and arrive in Palmerson tomorrow (Friday) and hunker down there. Even though the winds are predicted to come from the E to SE and mooring field is on the W, we expect to have to endure some uncomfortable wraparound swells during the event. Oh well, or is it "Oh Swell"?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Dinner tonight was mahi-mahi burgers and cole slaw. Yum!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07Dx1DMiSgvKVOogp947xbSDoZkK6A1ASJrx-4ZAnNuuDczvwfJWM7pJa2VqwJzVw2W9PazK-_z4Wz_MU8YVRx3LCxB8MNnBH-Ac3fL3WtqRetOiiGyM4czga4oxU7Gp9-zPilRMnZ3c/s1600/IMG_1010.entroutePalmerstonGloomyWxSunnySmile+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07Dx1DMiSgvKVOogp947xbSDoZkK6A1ASJrx-4ZAnNuuDczvwfJWM7pJa2VqwJzVw2W9PazK-_z4Wz_MU8YVRx3LCxB8MNnBH-Ac3fL3WtqRetOiiGyM4czga4oxU7Gp9-zPilRMnZ3c/s640/IMG_1010.entroutePalmerstonGloomyWxSunnySmile+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gloomy weather, sunny smile. Sylvia on watch in foulies as we neared Palmerston. </td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br />Land Ho!!:</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Day #6:</b> It was another surprisingly pleasant night but with lighter winds. We were eking the last sailing miles out of Cinnabar before having to fire up the engine and motorsail down the track. At 0300 (3:00 a.m.) the wind abated further and so it was a good time to simultaneously motor along and attack the lazy bag and reefing line problems. We eventually got everything sorted out by 0500 and when we looked around we discovered that the previously-clear sky was gone and was replaced by heavy clouds and squalls (i.e. the cold front we were expecting earlier in the eve.). The wind rapidly increased to 18-22 kts, so off with the motor and out with sails again. Tom went off-watch for some much-needed sleep and I watched the sun rise between squall lines. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Once the sun was fully up the weather didn't seem as ominous but it was still a far cry from our previous days of sailing. We sighted land at around 0900, low lying Palmerston Atoll. We had a very windy last leg with reefed main and jib and we were still screaming along at 8-10 knots, taking water over the bow for the first time since night #1. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov-9P4NIOWErPoOSNPRrNOTrU2cZ3XsJcre7tOKHvKcqq6nd6DUAcWLWaQexUQbiTdYyt14Kh4W2Lf4NLlpP5ksEfRxNu0umjYMKEu6VpEdqLLwk7CweOgKfPqC5ifj5MD3-gKXlc6ig/s1600/IMG_1055.palmerstonIs.arrival+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov-9P4NIOWErPoOSNPRrNOTrU2cZ3XsJcre7tOKHvKcqq6nd6DUAcWLWaQexUQbiTdYyt14Kh4W2Lf4NLlpP5ksEfRxNu0umjYMKEu6VpEdqLLwk7CweOgKfPqC5ifj5MD3-gKXlc6ig/s640/IMG_1055.palmerstonIs.arrival+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a mooring in the open ocean on the western side of Palmerston Atoll. The 'motu' is the 'home island' where the inhabitants (~39 persons) reside. After only about 6 hours of squally weather, the cold front move east , leaving behind sunny skies.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We radioed the folks at Palmerston and a nice man named Edward came out to direct us to a mooring. All the moorings are on the west side of the atoll since the prevailing winds come from the East. Due to our deep draft I had requested the mooring farthest from the reef. Maybe that was my mistake as he directed us to one that looked to be only 200-300 feet from the reef, ack!! Keep in mind that Cinnabar is 52' long and was on a mooring line that has about 25' of surface line. Do the math and the separation with the reef is very small if the winds shift 180 degrees and the boat lies in the opposite orientation. The good news is that the BWE (big wind event) is predicted to be E to SE. It was already blowing a steady 20 knots, what in the heck will it be during the BWE? At 1109 hrs we were secured and made arrangements with Edward to meet with Customs (they would come out to the boat). He also told us that we could use a long line to secure the boat to the neighboring mooring so that we could be attached to 2 moorings. (We later discovered that the deeper moorings belong to "Bob" while the shallower ones belong to Edward, hence our placement. Edward and Bob are related, as are all the inhabitants of Palmerston, but more about that later.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We breathed a sigh of relief, had a hug of accomplishment, and went about Cinnabar putting lines and things away in preparation for clearing customs and our trip ashore which would include lunch prepared by Edward's family.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had arrived!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0u2F0-APLp8A_MVCyHx0s5H0tDqyAcTDKNF7Ro3FQFn7tNCJZB0BW0ZMEg-FANasfozmgHUu17Flkpj_jldW5K45wcUIL6fCg6E9HBcNZWGoAJk3LmkPR5pyNdftKl_MnqmnrzsCZGg/s1600/IMG_1054.palmerstonBrochureMap+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0u2F0-APLp8A_MVCyHx0s5H0tDqyAcTDKNF7Ro3FQFn7tNCJZB0BW0ZMEg-FANasfozmgHUu17Flkpj_jldW5K45wcUIL6fCg6E9HBcNZWGoAJk3LmkPR5pyNdftKl_MnqmnrzsCZGg/s640/IMG_1054.palmerstonBrochureMap+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palmerston Atoll Brochure - The mooring field is just north of the western tip (off Home Island).. And apparently, they awarded Tom his very own motu (SE corner). He's contemplating building a secret kiteboarding camp there.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Trip Totals:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Duration: 115 hrs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Dist. Made Good: 675 nm (avg BSP 5.9 kts)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Dist. Sailed (Log): 810 nm (avg BSP 7.0 kts)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Engine hrs: 10.2 hrs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fish count: 1 mahi-mahi</span><br />
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Surfseekerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12633616998942331915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-59694523340793051152018-09-28T06:42:00.000-07:002018-12-27T15:11:28.531-08:00Passage Notes - Days 3 & 4 - FP (Raiatea) to Cooks (Palmerston Is.)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Finally...Fish On! Mahi-Mahi! The hunter becomes the hunted. This male/bull hit a pink-purple squid lure. At about 4' long (51"), he provided a bounty of fillets</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Good Weather Conditions Continue - The Bonne Chance Charms Must Be Working</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Day #3:</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Another gorgeous day. When the wind dropped to the low teens we got to work replacing the wayward nut on the sail slide. We decided to check every single slide on the mainsail so we dropped the entire sail. While the jib kept us sailing along, we tightened every single nut on every single sail slide. Needless to say, this took a while as the boat was in constant movement, going side-to-side in the swells. By the late afternoon, we were pretty tired and decided to play it conservative/easy and keep the mainsail reefed, have dinner and start our watch system early to make sure we got enough R&R (rest and recovery).
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Around 16:30 (4:30 p.m.) we both went to the back deck to reel in the fishing lines and relax. Just as Tom was about to reel in his first line - THWACK! A sudden sound - a fish strike! We could see it was a mahi mahi! Tom immediately began hauling in the fish on the hand line while I rummaged around for the gaff. No time for slowing the boat with the sails pulling smartly. As the thrashing fish neared the stern, we could see its shimmering blue, green and yellow mahi colors. It was a 4' long bull/male, but this was no time for gazing. I took control of the line while Tom reached down and with a hefty, well-aimed swing, and gaffed the fish behind the gills. Now almost dispatched, we held the panting fish on the swim step until we could administer the 'permanent sleep' with a merciful dagger to its distinctive, oversized forehead. It was a beautiful fish!! So much for our night of relaxation/recovery. It was "a mission" to process the fish and clean up the mess, but we were rewarded with a freezer full of delicious fillets. Sadly, we lost one of our favorite work buckets while cleaning off the swim step. The sea giveth and the sea taketh away. Maybe Tangaroa needed a new bucket. We paid homage to the Mighty Mahi and slipped the carcass into the sea and, as we transitioned from French Poly to Cook Island waters, I offered our second good-luck coin to Tangaroa. Thanks for the fish; enjoy our bucket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We thoroughly enjoyed our fresh mahi mahi meal, but were eager to resume addressing our rest deficit condition. My 22:45 (10:45 p.m.) log entry: "Beautiful night. We're tired". Luckily, it would be another magnificent night and with our reduced sail plan, we finally gained our R & R.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That night we crossed our halfway point and I celebrated by enjoying a frozen cream cheese/peanut butter dark chocolate cup that Katie had made for us. Yum!!
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The 24 hr stats for day #2: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance made good = 140 nm; </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance sailed = 176. 'Penalty' = 21%. This is trending unfavorably.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zCREDUC01SzaVAQOOjv2RI0Pg_5VduV6859Y_aQ8NYzyXm-A_Ms2wdePazXOVcVCqL_3lk8Sxgr5hndD4UJFh0R2GprroP-Nm7ISkxA3H5mxwhlM7VYYystzGXBq4MrCE6X2rsv1B44/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-09-27-10h55m33s077.enrouteWaterline+%2528blog%2529+%2528blog%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zCREDUC01SzaVAQOOjv2RI0Pg_5VduV6859Y_aQ8NYzyXm-A_Ms2wdePazXOVcVCqL_3lk8Sxgr5hndD4UJFh0R2GprroP-Nm7ISkxA3H5mxwhlM7VYYystzGXBq4MrCE6X2rsv1B44/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-09-27-10h55m33s077.enrouteWaterline+%2528blog%2529+%2528blog%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Even with daily issues, the boat keeps sailing, moving forward, 24 x 7, and making mileage toward the next port.</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tourjours un Problems du Jour - Always a New Daily Problem</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Day #4:
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The genset is leaking water inside its soundproof case. When we were heeled over the first couple of days Tom noticed that water was dribbling out of the case that holds our little Panda genset (generator that recharges the batteries). Water in genset = NOT good. Our main Yanmar engine (aka Double D) will recharge the batteries, and we have solar panels as well, but with our refrigerator, freezer and now the auto-pilot that works 24/7 we need those batteries to get a good daily recharge. No genset = PITA (and no ice!).
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom thought he had diagnosed the problem, a leak in the plugged hole that he and Captain Coconut had previously drilled into the exhaust elbow to clean it out (and fix a different PdJ). So he removed the screw/plug, cleaned it, resealed and rescrewed it. Problem solved! Later that day when we turned on the Panda, it still leaked. Dang! So we have yet to properly diagnose the problem. It won't be easy with all the hoses, hose clamps, etc. in that jam-packed jigsaw puzzle of a machine. (Update: tightened all hose clamps on seawater system an no more leak; however, the rotor/coil must still have residual moisture in it because now it sounds like popcorn or arching. Bad. So need to dry out the rotor/coil).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We constantly have to roll our eyes that there is always an unforeseen problem-of-the-day to be attended to. I won't list all the niggling things that we've dealt with on this journey, just believe me.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nevertheless, we enjoyed another fabulous day on the water with brochure conditions. One of the highlights was a sushi dinner with nori, rice, and of course fresh mahi mahi (hamachi!).
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That night (next a.m. actually) at 0200, while enjoying the moon and stars, my AIS (Automatic Information System) alarm went off. WTF? We hadn't seen a boat, ship or plane since leaving Raiatea. About 12 nm ahead of us was a large cargo ship, no doubt one that transits through the Cooks Island bringing cargo and goods to the various locations. Then Tom spied a plane in the sky heading toward Tahiti. The 204' cargo ship Layar Mas passed at a comfortably safe 2 nm, to port/left, going in the opposite direction, and was lit up like a cruise ship. Alarms sounding, boats to the left of us, planes overhead...all of a sudden it felt a little crowded out here!
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The 24 hr stats for day #3: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance Made Good = 148 nm. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Distance Sailed = 171. Gybing 'Penalty' = 13%. Improvement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com/">http://www.sailmail.com</a></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-61930551024218658212018-09-27T06:40:00.000-07:002018-12-27T15:11:04.832-08:00Passage Notes - Days 1 & 2 - FP (Raiatea) to Cooks (Palmerston Is.)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qKr4YwZaENX5ABKtqu9EykD9fOXjt6HVPSeNJ0O0n9Kbn-7T5YnZQTojQ1V6tWu_-eFZOQjCRJKfdztzHasy9n7vl7rZD4H_1605KymzLuypEP6HV_F3SB4OXB4dOELhVMGLMFspsFY/s1600/IMG_0985.mainsailBacklitSpreaderPatches+%2528blog%2529+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qKr4YwZaENX5ABKtqu9EykD9fOXjt6HVPSeNJ0O0n9Kbn-7T5YnZQTojQ1V6tWu_-eFZOQjCRJKfdztzHasy9n7vl7rZD4H_1605KymzLuypEP6HV_F3SB4OXB4dOELhVMGLMFspsFY/s640/IMG_0985.mainsailBacklitSpreaderPatches+%2528blog%2529+%25281%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mainsail, full hoist, sunset backlight as we depart French Poly for the Cook Islands.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Two and a half years after arriving in French Poly Cinnabar departs again for new distant lands.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Passage Making - Refreshing Rusty Skills:
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Day #1, Sunday 23 September 2018</b>: After many goodbyes to our good friends in Raiatea we sailed out the western pass of Raiatea at 15:30 (3:30 p.m.) bound for the open sea and Palmerston Atoll in The Cook Islands, a distance of 675 nm (nautical miles). Katie on Pangaea had given us some good luck charms: one to keep to help insure good weather and two French Polynesian franc coins with which to make offerings to Tangaroa, God of the sea. We tossed the first coin in the water as we exited the island reef pass. The good luck charm, a small bag holding a beautiful pearl from the Tuamotus and a shiny, virgin French Polynesian coin would have pride of place on Sharkie's belt. (Sharkie...our little stuffed San Jose Sharks Hockey mascot keeps constant vigil at our mast).
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We quite literally sailed due west into the sunset, on our bow, and a full moonrise, coincidentally on our stern. And yes, some proverbial good luck dolphins also escorted us away. Wow!
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We expected rambunctious weather for our first night and that's what we got. Winds in the high 20's and steep swells from different directions made it a challenge to get our "sea legs". Luckily the wind and seas calmed down a bit before midnight and even though it was challenging for the off-watch down below trying to sleep, it was magnificent for the on-watch up above. The skies were mostly clear and bright due to the nearly-full moon and all in all it was a glorious night as Cinnabar whizzed fast westward with a fully reefed mainsail (reef = reduce sail area by dropping it a bit and securing it) to reduce the bounciness of the waves and a reefed jib to slow the speed and keep the near runaway boat under control.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TjxyQyleqvWOGMQvqs-dwkPjvqrz62sGoVMizeip4Vyoohiue62Jq0mLlGpMJxWGJ9flvlDIStf-cl6Jl6QH68dR6dTHWIXilBnusxkj5LD2iz95Sj3UfCEdTF_O9hEiTAKk9Gc9AGk/s1600/IMG_0989.brochureSailing.blog.small.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TjxyQyleqvWOGMQvqs-dwkPjvqrz62sGoVMizeip4Vyoohiue62Jq0mLlGpMJxWGJ9flvlDIStf-cl6Jl6QH68dR6dTHWIXilBnusxkj5LD2iz95Sj3UfCEdTF_O9hEiTAKk9Gc9AGk/s640/IMG_0989.brochureSailing.blog.small.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Brochure Sailing. Sunset Daily Grog Ration. Sublime Condx from our "Living Room"</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Brochure Sailing - This Never Happens:
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Day #2:</b> It was a beautiful day at sea with moderated winds in the teens. The sea was still bumpy with 2.5 meter swells coming from different directions, but at least they were smoother and not as steep as the day before. We shook the reef out of the mainsail and continued happily on our journey.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In the afternoon, during a maneuver (probably gybing), Tom found a nylock nut on the deck. Uh oh, loose hardware = not good. Where did it come from and what was going to come apart? A while later I came up from resting and saw Tom lying on the deck with the binoculars staring at the mast. "I think the nut came from the top batten car", he announced. I looked too and sure enough, that car (they are the things that slide up and down mainsail track and keep the sail attached to the mast), looked different from the others. All of the cars had a shiny nut on the bottom but the offending car, WAY up high (60'), did not. It was too windy and too late to do anything about it that day so we put it on the "to do" list for tomorrow.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">At 15:30 we took our 24 hr. stats: 154 nm "distance made good" (avg 6.4 kts), and 173 nm actually sailed (avg 7.2 kts). What is "made good" vs "actually sailed"? Due to the direction of the wind Cinnabar cannot sail directly to our destination, instead we sail angles so we actually sail more miles than we would "as the crow flies". This is effectively a 21% penalty against optimum efficiency.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That night was the true full moon, it was clear with few clouds and we were feeling bold so we decided not to reef the mainsail. Cinnabar hauled ass with her full sail configuration. More good times! Although it was great fun for the on-watch (Sylvia) above deck, the fast speeds made for a bit of a lurchy hell for the off-watch (Tom) trying to sleep below. Tom got up from (not) sleeping and suggested we reef the mainsail to make things more comfortable. He had no sooner geared up and come up on deck when a big wave washed over the side deck and fully drenched Tom and one of our bean bag chairs! Soooo not fair. At least if was warm water and warm temps outside. We reefed the sail, dried out and got better rest for the remainder of the night. The thing about these night time maneuvers is that one or both crew invariably lose some of their sleep time, hence the potential sleep debt that can build up over time.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nevertheless we were happy about our trip so far. The big question was would these sublime conditions hold?
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</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">radio email processed by SailMail
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com/">http://www.sailmail.com</a></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-15822271830523592722018-09-22T12:59:00.002-07:002018-12-27T15:17:19.704-08:00A New Chapter For CINNABAR - Leaving Frech Poly. for New Zealand<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Now that the guests have departed we are busily attending to all the projects that will make for a safe passage from French Polynesia to Palmerston Atoll and then on to Niue and Tonga. From Tonga we will head to our final (this season) destination of New Zealand.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We have a list of things "to do". NOT on the list was this one: </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While checking the wire from the Single Side Band (HF) antenna tuner to the backstay (which turns the backstay into a very tall antenna) we discovered the tuner wire was undergoing corrosion. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The radio has been working fine and it is our lifeline to checking in while underway, for downloading weather forecasts and even getting email from one of our accounts. But that corroded wire was a ticking time bomb and it was much better to replace it while at anchor than during a rambunctious passage.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTefjo97EzZtf590gmnHACJCUe3sietjr27oeQeMlBxukbhawjY-P1rJcSG4xJKNaGheyuYR8c2Qrx7ZlVp4aszfjmmqdxQmyH2hlBp_WV0NZVD1PfkF_hbJePHANrjXdp6YKLtdq7opfR/s1600/IMG_9969+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTefjo97EzZtf590gmnHACJCUe3sietjr27oeQeMlBxukbhawjY-P1rJcSG4xJKNaGheyuYR8c2Qrx7ZlVp4aszfjmmqdxQmyH2hlBp_WV0NZVD1PfkF_hbJePHANrjXdp6YKLtdq7opfR/s640/IMG_9969+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Boat yoga? This would have been nearly impossible to do under way.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">To access the bottom of the antenna insulator Tom had to go upside down in the aft locker and reach the nut at the very back of the boat between the ladder. I didn't get the insulator in the picture but the little arrow is pointing to it. The corroded wire is hanging down. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had a lovely farewell dinner with our friends Mike and Katie from PANGAEA at the Raiatea Lodge restaurant. Then we remembered it was our 30th anniversary of being together so we turned it into a bit of a celebration.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lyLZJE8mlU4yQbuzcx2BCv9zGyZWiym5XGCX2HQhJILdqfDO73MQtnLHBn7uLn90sHB3JuP1n4zy5iypBCkUgsk4r0tlcqVBsi1CBrYQWhG3EkMXgqzizUaPYkQ8pCNf0dnSRZQQC1TF/s1600/IMG_1270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lyLZJE8mlU4yQbuzcx2BCv9zGyZWiym5XGCX2HQhJILdqfDO73MQtnLHBn7uLn90sHB3JuP1n4zy5iypBCkUgsk4r0tlcqVBsi1CBrYQWhG3EkMXgqzizUaPYkQ8pCNf0dnSRZQQC1TF/s400/IMG_1270.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Happy Anniversary to us!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our lifestyle is one of hellos and goodbyes. We look forward to catching up to friends we've said farewell to in the past but it is sad to say farewell to the friends we have here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">When you next you hear from us we will probably be underway, heading westward. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-77844647121749578552018-09-17T20:06:00.001-07:002018-09-17T20:10:37.922-07:00Captain and Mrs. Coconut visit CINNABAR<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhogGUijeaLS3REhMeZ7pkd7fBbBnsoA7iy-O83ZhdyDT1GOvY_Cxw7-Qr553wyv3uTszxEdHLkwT-ha7NNN474zUpRKyK7554-Gc0JdSQg2xzKEjP7zw1chpiSKBJrbgLlvTxpaTqZiO/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-09-04-09h37m19s529.crop.naoNaoNancyRob.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="1600" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhogGUijeaLS3REhMeZ7pkd7fBbBnsoA7iy-O83ZhdyDT1GOvY_Cxw7-Qr553wyv3uTszxEdHLkwT-ha7NNN474zUpRKyK7554-Gc0JdSQg2xzKEjP7zw1chpiSKBJrbgLlvTxpaTqZiO/s640/vlcsnap-2018-09-04-09h37m19s529.crop.naoNaoNancyRob.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahhhh...back in the tropics!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our friends Rob and Nancy from SHINDIG were able to squeeze a visit to French Polynesia into their super busy schedule. I'm pretty sure they welcomed a break from all their home improvement tasks. They got to do a bit of work aboard SHINDIG for a few days and then they boarded Cinnabar (loaded with swag for us of course) for a week and a half of sailing, snorkeling, and basic R&R. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Just a few highlights:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our first night at anchor we traveled to a small anchorage we had heard about near one of the eastern passes out of Raiatea. We slowly picked our way through a pearl farm, Rob on the bow looking for buoys under the water, and wedged CINNABAR into a tiny space tucked next to a motu out of the wind. There was no room to swing so Rob paddled to shore on his SUP with a long line which he tied to a tree. We dropped our anchor, backed down, and winched in the shore line until CINNABAR was secure. The boys thought this was all great fun but I admit to being a bit nervous about the set-up. Luckily the weather cooperated and we enjoyed a calm evening.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfPxJ7tpBEA9i4ppdacKSN_Tji4k1_M1AUdqcZJ1tRwoQp_vyFF4pk_eHNkJt1d1W2_Fb9A4JTyp1ORyKvh6zAECvtKXr92NGVF4utS6qg3rb8w_RXOyRVa9hO_-XvshEjET2pngjdZGvV/s1600/EVGdi-fg+-+Copy.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="1280" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfPxJ7tpBEA9i4ppdacKSN_Tji4k1_M1AUdqcZJ1tRwoQp_vyFF4pk_eHNkJt1d1W2_Fb9A4JTyp1ORyKvh6zAECvtKXr92NGVF4utS6qg3rb8w_RXOyRVa9hO_-XvshEjET2pngjdZGvV/s640/EVGdi-fg+-+Copy.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Check out the line stretched out behind the stern. An anchoring first for CINNABAR.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next day we reversed the procedure, sailed out the pass and headed for Huahine. It was a brisk and sporty day and we made record time with a reefed mainsail and jib. The entire trip from pass to pass was about 3.5 hours. Not bad for 26 miles. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpbVzINgWvaYFyWkhukmijIqOP3_rK0X3SDk5FUQ3bKJZgKR-8ZgVvlEN-e-f5DiSGOIrwIRs9DnqAsF8D5l7CxYmNOVnMFhxf6u1VdxXEjVG8pXBSyZ-g3QDW4gj4ys9zMemd7MR9PRP/s1600/h8oSG7Zw.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpbVzINgWvaYFyWkhukmijIqOP3_rK0X3SDk5FUQ3bKJZgKR-8ZgVvlEN-e-f5DiSGOIrwIRs9DnqAsF8D5l7CxYmNOVnMFhxf6u1VdxXEjVG8pXBSyZ-g3QDW4gj4ys9zMemd7MR9PRP/s640/h8oSG7Zw.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Captain Coco at the helm. Very sporty weather!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While in Huahine we spent a lot of time in the water. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmbr7lqCBi3oiYzGORgP68s-SeQj2qehdXonZ2fs9br7-cB8dDQF9s3Ke0ylEUGrSPbOgqID4T6xs-kMtjUX-oEvaGQxfKN3NNZzvTxZYbQ36qtAoLeIWxmz2yfKsWK1K-xNOWx46qE11/s1600/eyzHRMhA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHmbr7lqCBi3oiYzGORgP68s-SeQj2qehdXonZ2fs9br7-cB8dDQF9s3Ke0ylEUGrSPbOgqID4T6xs-kMtjUX-oEvaGQxfKN3NNZzvTxZYbQ36qtAoLeIWxmz2yfKsWK1K-xNOWx46qE11/s640/eyzHRMhA.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ready to snorkel in Fare, Huahine.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The swell was up and Tom and Rob had a great day of surfing, Tom on his board and Rob on his SUP. Other activities included an island tour for Rob and Nancy, and Nancy got invited to a musical recital performed by four girls from the two kid boats in the anchorage. Being a musician herself, Nancy also performed as a guest.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">During the end of their trip we managed to arrange one or two happy hours with some other fellow cruisers.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvMC9AF76aKBJ9D8Gbbun1gMuypR4D_r9mU-PR-N2mjimIUd3uSnMQX6WjvkTv2gRIPfGxOFqA9L1VHahIOlCZiiVkhe4sYWx5J3yX3Z8u-tQC6qj97iaucIwHIqCfaUfuPJRDIXudaxY/s1600/RtRutbGg.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvMC9AF76aKBJ9D8Gbbun1gMuypR4D_r9mU-PR-N2mjimIUd3uSnMQX6WjvkTv2gRIPfGxOFqA9L1VHahIOlCZiiVkhe4sYWx5J3yX3Z8u-tQC6qj97iaucIwHIqCfaUfuPJRDIXudaxY/s640/RtRutbGg.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Reconnecting with Mike and Shelley on AVATAR.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">They ended their trip with a stay at the Raiatea Lodge and treated us to a gourmet meal. Wow! </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUx46WWOMVNhOZTj3qxb8kjkLrZac3VWeEprrrX92AqpCaSd6Hf9ImQHE5v49IGqnHSzy-_4PA5NQooC6kW4T8qbjsNEIEb-UGyJNoWHQTdAdMsvrOXtxyDYKKQisv2Ih3e1D4oXq-OaOL/s1600/0ItFBV2w.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUx46WWOMVNhOZTj3qxb8kjkLrZac3VWeEprrrX92AqpCaSd6Hf9ImQHE5v49IGqnHSzy-_4PA5NQooC6kW4T8qbjsNEIEb-UGyJNoWHQTdAdMsvrOXtxyDYKKQisv2Ih3e1D4oXq-OaOL/s640/0ItFBV2w.jpeg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Thanks Nancy and Rob for all your generosity! (And the Don Julio that we are saving for our arrival in New Zealand in November.) Your visit felt way too short and we'd love to see you aboard CINNABAR again. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0134gOCaISjiio27wgvVNpQHavCsIL5e4rF2N72gxzOo27zXNtG1N1g9z1CPOsLlhr5z5hzoLJ0pT9O4pn3QfSqZoSEBZBgek2fZRYCO3wk0fOOVKIKp5BfuUXK_IR6d3CjBE9XYOatp/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-09-04-09h36m12s180.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0134gOCaISjiio27wgvVNpQHavCsIL5e4rF2N72gxzOo27zXNtG1N1g9z1CPOsLlhr5z5hzoLJ0pT9O4pn3QfSqZoSEBZBgek2fZRYCO3wk0fOOVKIKp5BfuUXK_IR6d3CjBE9XYOatp/s640/vlcsnap-2018-09-04-09h36m12s180.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">P.S. We can't wait to see your new house.</span><br />
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<br />Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-25907443460005176052018-09-09T13:19:00.003-07:002018-09-13T03:09:44.887-07:00Sister Sonja and Erik visit CINNABAR<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Welcome to French Polynesia!!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's been a good season for visitors here in les Iles-sous-le-vent, aka leeward islands of French Polynesia. Sonja and Erik managed to squeeze in a visit and they were blessed with (mostly) excellent weather and the some of the best snorkeling conditions we've seen here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">They pretty much did a reverse trip version of Joe and Lisa's visit, starting in scenic <b>Avea Bay, Huahine</b>. Their taxi driver happened to also be a tour guide and for the price of taxi fare she also gave them a mini-tour of the island before dropping them off. They had copious amounts of luggage filled with goods for us and select bottles of booze and a few bottles of excellent Ridge wine. Oh how I miss those California zinfandels!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Of course we had to do the Polynesian traditional pit-cooked Sunday brunch at Chez Tara and it was delicious and plentiful as usual.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95AeGO6cU2lLg1TqEdz-9M8UuE7Y8P62hDr1YPe7w4IKSLYwWxyVOy9uQzgZJteNQLKSwrCL45j3OMDo6jMBOo-ERRw4jBOGnymviGlQeMNGTbqvp1AaqxGxFsRwbjZz63MXDcxAKAc4w/s1600/IMG_9932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95AeGO6cU2lLg1TqEdz-9M8UuE7Y8P62hDr1YPe7w4IKSLYwWxyVOy9uQzgZJteNQLKSwrCL45j3OMDo6jMBOo-ERRw4jBOGnymviGlQeMNGTbqvp1AaqxGxFsRwbjZz63MXDcxAKAc4w/s640/IMG_9932.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We stayed in Avea Bay for six days because the snorkeling was absolutely outstanding. The waves were down so currents were light and the visibility was super clear. We snorkeled our favorite spots and explored some new ones too. </span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPD4oBxmWsg6z-iPO-1vZe2ubE1R25a4qninJ5exbsJMypuTRcjNIi5YSlRm3SExLeM66rRgBAL_EA7XBE5Vvc0IA4kc0hQdjrNJdfVpjxJ_M0gMr6sYbvktpMDtDk5w8yS4tct6qjkCbx/s1600/IMG_0159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPD4oBxmWsg6z-iPO-1vZe2ubE1R25a4qninJ5exbsJMypuTRcjNIi5YSlRm3SExLeM66rRgBAL_EA7XBE5Vvc0IA4kc0hQdjrNJdfVpjxJ_M0gMr6sYbvktpMDtDk5w8yS4tct6qjkCbx/s640/IMG_0159.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Just another gorgeous sunset in paradise!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">But eventually it was time for a change of scenery so we motor-sailed up to the town of Fare to get ready to head to Raiatea.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXX0jIpEzDYUy4S3nnFT7By1H8f7svMJdiwstlQlq2B1s0AyUmTCVsevxt3MJUpJ0bxMMuzjcsGN2wIBhLuEQSnXXZFSnkb_T8ATQmD5JG4kbBy0DlufWkl_U2WILIHCqNvDk5orzgBAm/s1600/20180801_122424+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXX0jIpEzDYUy4S3nnFT7By1H8f7svMJdiwstlQlq2B1s0AyUmTCVsevxt3MJUpJ0bxMMuzjcsGN2wIBhLuEQSnXXZFSnkb_T8ATQmD5JG4kbBy0DlufWkl_U2WILIHCqNvDk5orzgBAm/s640/20180801_122424+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This paddler drafted off our wake and kept up with us for quite a while...at 6.5 knots!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">One of the favorite excursions we had in Fare was a visit to the Passion Distillery. The owner Christian is passionate (hence the name) about distilling liqueurs in all the tropical flavors, passion fruit, pamplemousse, ginger, citron, cacao, nuts, coconut, pineapple, and the list goes on. We tasted many and purchased a favorite and left by 11:00 with a slight buzz.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Christian and his wife Rosie who poured our tastings for us.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Ypx4CF1Z-VLnL1MNr_gMDK9ikHkU9qClZWaiG1PPP1c8r5md6QuVo6Ji-v7yVLXBmk_8fQrXywoBcXNOSP0agcWt9HrSB_QEjFsxtBTAwkhnUozNSYvjxTA8PU9s94xbhwcsyLAn0mbl/s1600/IMG_0164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Ypx4CF1Z-VLnL1MNr_gMDK9ikHkU9qClZWaiG1PPP1c8r5md6QuVo6Ji-v7yVLXBmk_8fQrXywoBcXNOSP0agcWt9HrSB_QEjFsxtBTAwkhnUozNSYvjxTA8PU9s94xbhwcsyLAn0mbl/s640/IMG_0164.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Erik liked this sign at the town dock in Fare. We wondered if this was put up after someone drove into the water? </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next day we motor-sailed in light breeze to Taha'a where we anchored for the evening. Sonja and Erik were able to get a quick snorkel in before the sun set. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A little more wind would have been nice but otherwise it was a great day.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Raiatea was our next stop and we spent the afternoon and night at the Carenage anchorage before starting our Raiatea circumnavigation. We had a great afternoon snorkel in the pass and saw lots of fish, lion fish coming out of their caves and our first nudibranch sighting of the year. Two nudibranchs together (doing what?)! </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Erik relaxing at the anchorage before the big wind event.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sonja had been saying that she wanted to get some sailing in and she sure got her wish. Because the next day the winds were coming from the NE and were predicted to be quite windy we chose to circumnavigate Raiatea counter-clockwise which would put us at a south anchorage (hopefully) out of the wind. As soon as we got out of the pass to head south the katabatic winds came screaming over the mountains. We were under jib only and were seeing 8.5-9.5 knots of boat speed, i.e. FAST. We had a very sporty sail back into the SW pass and it was slightly too much excitement as we navigated CINNABAR through the narrow channel while 30 knot gusts came over the mountains.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We eventually reached our destination and were happy to find an available mooring ball. The weather was still windy but a little bit more settled there and the next day we had an excellent snorkel session.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After snorkeling we continued east and northward until we got to our destination of the famous Taputapuatea Marae. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A fun and educational day at Taputapuatea</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We've talked about this magical marae, which was the traditional spiritual center of Polynesian navigation, in past posts. The one special thing we did this time was make an offering. One of our favorite aunts who passed away a few years ago had made some seashell earrings years earlier (lots of them as wedding favors). We added them to the offering alter and had a short, silent meditation, feeling the mana (spirit). </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Aunt Lynette's earrings hanging from a shell necklace.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately Sonja and Erik had to fly home soon so after spending the night near Taputapuatea we had to complete the circumnavigation and head back to the anchorage near the airport. The weather was becoming overcast and squally and by that night the first squall hit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next morning in the rain we loaded up the dinghy with Sonja, Erik and their much diminished luggage. They got out of Raiatea in the nick of time before several days of bad weather.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Good Vacation!!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">MYSTERY OBJECT: in the last blogpost we had a mystery object which nobody took a stab at trying to identify.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ANSWER: it is the inside of a <a href="http://www.thecoconet.tv/cocoblog/surprising-benefits-of-the-coconut-embryo/" target="_blank"><b>SPROUTED COCONUT!</b></a> (Check out the link.) It has taste and texture like a mildly sweet coconut sponge cake. Who knew cake grew on trees?</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sonja and Erik, you were terrific guests and you are welcome any time!</span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Link to <b><a href="https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMJDqYpZIlMfoDc1cvzH52xuavBRo0Q_UmgepBc_CGkfFPMZkPfUGFjLUAb42xWkg?key=MzFESUR1Y3p3SHNOQTNJMlRqRWFCdEsyNXJjT01n" target="_blank">ALBUM</a></b></span> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sisters!!</span></td></tr>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-37469781424368787912018-08-13T14:21:00.001-07:002018-08-13T14:23:24.703-07:00Joe and Lisa Visit CINNABAR<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Sylvia)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photos by CINNABAR, PANGAEA and Joe/Lisa.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our friends Joe and Lisa came to visit us and their 3 week visit absolutely flew by. We were on the island of Raiatea so after arriving in Papeete they got a short flight from Tahiti to Raiatea. The Raiatea airport has a dinghy dock so Tom was able to motor right up to the airport to get our guests and their luggage which included numerous bottles of booze for us.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lisa got a kick out of transport by dinghy.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We planned to start their visit by circumnavigating Raiatea and visit what we were told were some beautiful and uncrowded anchorages.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">First sunset aboard CINNABAR. PANGAEA was anchored nearby and we planned to do the island tour with our friends Katie and Mike.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our first stop was at the famous marae of Taputapuatea on the East side of Raiatea. Luckily both mooring balls were available so CINNABAR and PANGAEA were able to rest side by side.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next morning we all headed into the beach at Taputapuatea. The significance of this marae is that it was a place of learning where priests and navigators throughout the Pacific would gather to make sacrifices to the gods and share their knowledge of ocean navigation. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joe, Lisa, Sylvia, Katie and Mike</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Back on the boat and hopeful for a BBQ, we discovered that the inner grate of our little grill had completely corroded. But fear not, after a bit of head scratching CINNABAR'S 3 engineers pulled a large duck confit can out of the garbage and turned it into a grate. BTW, this was Lisa's idea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We visited several more anchorages as we continued to travel around the southern end of Raiatea, with our last anchorage being a lovely, secluded spot on the west side, which meant sunsets again!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our next destination would be Huahine. We traveled to the nearby island of Taha'a (which shares the fringing reef with Raiatea) and spent the night there posed to set sail for Huahine the next morning. We lucked into perfect weather for our upwind 23 nm sail, mostly sunny, no squalls, fairly flat seas and just enough wind to hoist the sails.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joe did a terrific job of driving most of the way.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We spent a short amount of time in the town of Fare, just enough to provision, and then we moved down to our favorite anchorage of Avea Bay in SW Huahine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lisa, Joe and Sylvia enjoyed an island tour with the same guy who gave a tour to the Obamas, Oprah, and Tom Hanks last year. It was a fascinating tour and we can heartily recommend Eco-Island Tours in Huahine. Paul operates out of Fare (North Huahine) but he had no problem picking us up in Avea Bay (South Huahine).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The tour included a visit to a vanilla plantation that smelled divine.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">While in Avea Bay we enjoyed lots of snorkeling...</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Pretty day for a snorkel, but these two were game to go in any conditions.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...happy hours at the nearby Le Mahana resort, traditional Tahitian pit-cooked brunch, and Tom's coconut clinic on shore.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lisa enjoys the fresh coconut. Note Mike in the background with his machete.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The guys even got a bit of kiting in after getting skunked on their first attempt by a massive squall.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Taking shelter under the kite during a squall.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joe, Tom and Mike kiting on a non-stormy day.<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sadly the end of Joe and Lisa's visit was approaching so we headed back to the town of Fare. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Anchorage off of Fare</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">They got to enjoy one last Polynesian sunset before their taxi would pick them up the next morning.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Not bad for a final sunset, Fare Huahine.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Here are a few pictures of Joe and Lisa's visit: <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/BbpjhqAR9howimkS7" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Joe and Lisa Visit CINNABAR</span></b></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Now for the bonus question: A cold one of your choice to the first one who can identify this thing. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">What is this?????</span><br />
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-42158322946581820622018-08-04T17:59:00.000-07:002018-08-04T17:59:12.137-07:00Kiting in French Poly 2018 - The Societies<div style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kiting in The Societies - A super day for Shindig, Kaimana, and Cinnabar (looking NNE)</td></tr>
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(Tom)</div>
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The short version:</div>
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<li>Kiting chances are few and intermittent in The Societies - this is surprising and frustrating. Best to include a 14m in the quiver.</li>
<li>Kiting in The Tuamotus is generally better - more locations and more frequent winds overall.</li>
<li>When kiting chances do arrive - right place and weather - it seems extra special (and almost worth the hassle).</li>
<li>Kiting in Baja is the best value overall - tons of locations, regular winds, tacos, and tequila.</li>
<li>It's good luck to kite with friends who are also drone videographers.</li>
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The regular version:<br />
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I want to say that almost everyday here is like that in the photo above, but that would be very untrue.<br />
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Fresh from a terrific winter in Baja, Mexico with lots of great wind and kitingboarding days (34), I was fired up to continue the good times here in French Polynesia. While the Baja desert scenery has its own distinct beauty, the tropics have the ultimate allure of consistent tradewinds blowing over exotic, smooth, warm, bluewater lagoons. The reality, though, is a little more complex than that. While the ideal conditions can be had on occasion, if one works at it and gets lucky that is, they are surprisingly elusive. Some of the challenges include: finding a good launch beach with soft sand and clear air (most atolls here have concrete-like hardpan coral edges with no beach; ubiquitous palm trees and hills obstruct the wind); the winds are too light/gusty/holey and from the wrong direction (they blow onhore or offshore and inconsistently; sideshore is best). There is excessive current from the ocean crashing over atoll edges and piling up inside the lagoons like an overflowing garden fountain, causing rushing rivers of water trying to escape back to the ocean through only a few channels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBVaXhXN8bePNxWVo_gCRCl9h2ooI22slhW98OAtyjSH5wu8QasV_pa2agCcOdUSrIk4rZ45sdgjvzh0qzbyGO8bju8GyuRsH-5vhTRrbRrNYPH9ODDxENkgSS7fAYh9j5GCD-CRks2ME/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-07-29-15h51m25s387.cropped+%2528blog%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="640" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBVaXhXN8bePNxWVo_gCRCl9h2ooI22slhW98OAtyjSH5wu8QasV_pa2agCcOdUSrIk4rZ45sdgjvzh0qzbyGO8bju8GyuRsH-5vhTRrbRrNYPH9ODDxENkgSS7fAYh9j5GCD-CRks2ME/s640/vlcsnap-2018-07-29-15h51m25s387.cropped+%2528blog%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom (L) and Rob (R) in paradise 'levitating' on teal hues.</td></tr>
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The net result is that my kiting pals and I have been denied our kiting fix about 1 in every 2 or 3 attempts here. I have logged just 5 days kiting in 10-15 attempts (and 3 months time). It's a little disappointing and wearisome. So why bother at all - why not hangup the harness and focus on other more assured pursuits? Because when the conditions are accidentally really good, the kiting experience is so stimulating that it provokes euphoria and exuberance. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8z9FRu6jgyDqqXKkxT4EFWMk5lH_K59z0Kw873Nc0o7ZEcGITCS7ViGrxL2Ruuki_qBWAnqcjwNfHrf3tSt_R4W6cdE_0jphJYpdoY4s-hzSQdxJGkNts7fTjQrug7ArpMcLCmx3y5j4/s1600/DJI_0054.robTomDuetHuahineDrone+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8z9FRu6jgyDqqXKkxT4EFWMk5lH_K59z0Kw873Nc0o7ZEcGITCS7ViGrxL2Ruuki_qBWAnqcjwNfHrf3tSt_R4W6cdE_0jphJYpdoY4s-hzSQdxJGkNts7fTjQrug7ArpMcLCmx3y5j4/s640/DJI_0054.robTomDuetHuahineDrone+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ideal conditions like this seem to be the exception.</td></tr>
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On one of our coveted lucky kiting days, Shingdig Rob and I joined up with <a href="http://www.kaimanaadventures.com/" target="_blank">Kaimana </a>Melissa to get some good board time at one of the nicest remote motus in The Societies. The surprise bonus was that Melissa is a professional <b>drone camera videographer</b> and she was kind enough to capture some of the magic of kiting in a warm, picturesque, tropical lagoon. Nothing quite like racing across miles of shallow blueness in bright sunshine, and skimming over startled eagle rays, cruising blacktip sharks, and colorful coral bommies underneath the crystal waters.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7v873NOZ7Rz1pMzl-QnBpn9qsoxoLldgXGaj9mrF1mmeNoRzpdfBXBsI21QoN2afYS1CoaeAUu6_vj_JFSgvWLelQa5uFbEtiAQI9bnXfjFwyc0ssz8ISJljKKMsb2hAqhgyQKXdiSI4/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-07-30-21h38m04s916+%2528blog%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7v873NOZ7Rz1pMzl-QnBpn9qsoxoLldgXGaj9mrF1mmeNoRzpdfBXBsI21QoN2afYS1CoaeAUu6_vj_JFSgvWLelQa5uFbEtiAQI9bnXfjFwyc0ssz8ISJljKKMsb2hAqhgyQKXdiSI4/s640/vlcsnap-2018-07-30-21h38m04s916+%2528blog%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melissa struggling to view her iPhone screen in the bright sunlight as she flies her DJI drone.<br />Rob is tuning up in the background.</td></tr>
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Rob, flying Melissa's kite (13m), and I flying my usual kite (12m), were cruising around trying to be good 'drone models'. I've never been involved in drone video; the closest I came was mounting a GoPro camera on my kite (w/acceptable results, but nothing like from a drone).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJs0BtiFG8nTtnTMQf9Qb0tJp_8PKn6f1_U6BiB0GzxmVdmMNVPZwSbcsmV9MJIpi5smwCPWcED29GpHtFOSLL-6p7s-pqmWC5uLuap_vZJJahPo3ntCZFNAicHzSpMjYgbvPsnhqFsvI/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-08-04-12h04m06s878.crop.color+%2528blog%2529.notes+%2528blog%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJs0BtiFG8nTtnTMQf9Qb0tJp_8PKn6f1_U6BiB0GzxmVdmMNVPZwSbcsmV9MJIpi5smwCPWcED29GpHtFOSLL-6p7s-pqmWC5uLuap_vZJJahPo3ntCZFNAicHzSpMjYgbvPsnhqFsvI/s640/vlcsnap-2018-08-04-12h04m06s878.crop.color+%2528blog%2529.notes+%2528blog%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anatomy of a drone video shoot.<br />Melissa commanded the drone to 'stay' (like Fido) while continuing to film; she then ran to launch Tom before resuming control of the drone..</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrBcxSraNjZGOLPfAW4ix2GD9Mhscq3wh6gmyIXTTvjdIHSvenhaS7Jsjk8q4BKheY6yWNpMtA5drmlmJLfZfHB1wbrUBUwOoJi7Rpd4YD906kA369gkKBqxJNRIJW6rHPBh9F7YG6mA/s1600/DJI_0067.tcSolo.cropped.color+%2528blog%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvrBcxSraNjZGOLPfAW4ix2GD9Mhscq3wh6gmyIXTTvjdIHSvenhaS7Jsjk8q4BKheY6yWNpMtA5drmlmJLfZfHB1wbrUBUwOoJi7Rpd4YD906kA369gkKBqxJNRIJW6rHPBh9F7YG6mA/s640/DJI_0067.tcSolo.cropped.color+%2528blog%2529.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only thing better?<br />This shot with a giant aerial jump involved (someday!).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4ak-VZb7qlTB-YxBxLAjDpwUzRgicF2R6-1gmtpl-AR-8-arm3vZk7nr4iBT4wqyvzcddfrXduy_eb-Uj2cW5dJpyj8SqJSd8OIAatloywVVdwrm4ebUw1dTt9ckN4HvQQMkWDC1NQU/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-07-29-15h56m45s677+%2528blog%2529+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4ak-VZb7qlTB-YxBxLAjDpwUzRgicF2R6-1gmtpl-AR-8-arm3vZk7nr4iBT4wqyvzcddfrXduy_eb-Uj2cW5dJpyj8SqJSd8OIAatloywVVdwrm4ebUw1dTt9ckN4HvQQMkWDC1NQU/s640/vlcsnap-2018-07-29-15h56m45s677+%2528blog%2529+%25281%2529.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frigate's view of the kiting area looking SSW, island pass in the background.<br />Cinnabar and Kaimana are anchored out of frame to the right. Yes, it's long dinghy ride.</td></tr>
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After she was done filming and set aside the drone, Melissa expressed an interest in trying out riding a strapless surfboard (a different type of riding than the usual twin-tip board). Rob happened to have such a board and offered some coaching and dinghy support. Turns out, that really wasn't necessary. On only her 2nd try, Melissa was up and riding on Rob's surfboard like she was born to it. She's an incredibly quick study and set the bar for what's possible in speed learning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtKlzl1xQSPdSMMlJglYZUiiAK_IRlxH_evtIZBecTmiTBJoEHY7xWHYN-5qvtCiv2nYM0a2CrJK0SVlXa5_ynp1SxSwb2kxYBphMzAEqzcK_AOefOcsUjJp_C_Y1u0CQc_cdE2UWyJPE/s1600/vlcsnap-2018-08-03-20h30m02s057..cropped.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="928" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtKlzl1xQSPdSMMlJglYZUiiAK_IRlxH_evtIZBecTmiTBJoEHY7xWHYN-5qvtCiv2nYM0a2CrJK0SVlXa5_ynp1SxSwb2kxYBphMzAEqzcK_AOefOcsUjJp_C_Y1u0CQc_cdE2UWyJPE/s640/vlcsnap-2018-08-03-20h30m02s057..cropped.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melissa riding the strapless/directional/surfboard for the first time. Piece of cake!</td></tr>
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So we had a memorable session and got some unique pics. For all of the expense and hassle of bluewater cruising, this day was one of the great payoffs that one is always seeking. Hooray!<br />
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Rob even edited a fun, short video <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/jfxvlhqgvrd2x2v/Tom-Flies-a-Kite-yt.mp4?dl=0" target="_blank">HERE - 2018 Kiting French Polynesia - Video</a>. But in the final analysis, the greatest kiting bang for the buck, Baja/La Ventana, is tops. However, for the occasional grand splurge in the form of the elusive, novel, and hard to obtain dreamscape type experience, then roll the dice and French Poly, may, just may deliver.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MvfKN7QQyrXqZOlkrQDkOXsgjYvFV8Q3U9yDSeTjuj4ItptNqGOZ8UpQh2rwojixvjQxEoPK1l4Xw-u1Rs_KHPvFpk5Jr12JKJ6AnR6kZ-yY65XLz4UwDM-2DOOKy6e36Q_fkG1uTC8/s1600/DJI_0072.robTomHuahineKiting+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MvfKN7QQyrXqZOlkrQDkOXsgjYvFV8Q3U9yDSeTjuj4ItptNqGOZ8UpQh2rwojixvjQxEoPK1l4Xw-u1Rs_KHPvFpk5Jr12JKJ6AnR6kZ-yY65XLz4UwDM-2DOOKy6e36Q_fkG1uTC8/s640/DJI_0072.robTomHuahineKiting+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It would be another 1.5 months before similar conditions arrived again. Worth it?<br />(Open ocean beyond the reef; Tahiti is 90 mn ESE)</td></tr>
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Surfseekerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12633616998942331915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-82248455233657149042018-06-27T16:20:00.004-07:002018-06-27T16:20:08.856-07:00French Polynesian Lunch To Go<div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia in Raiatea</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's very common here for people to pop into the local supermarket to pick up a prepared lunch to go. The most common are the <i>casse croutes </i>or baguette sandwiches. We're also used to seeing various marinated raw fish lunches. But this one really caused me to do a double take. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfX726GzFafJW9vYGeS9u7wZoDatDYRk5X2FwNlVirm6dH7cXo8FupfPT5-BZ6hmWXUTLOPmoQ7tFVrrAK1on10cADVKZWlsQK_xUf4NxoSSCzM76CgF_Il73mDtDEts5Wa3Y49TvTaZ3/s1600/20180618_104221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfX726GzFafJW9vYGeS9u7wZoDatDYRk5X2FwNlVirm6dH7cXo8FupfPT5-BZ6hmWXUTLOPmoQ7tFVrrAK1on10cADVKZWlsQK_xUf4NxoSSCzM76CgF_Il73mDtDEts5Wa3Y49TvTaZ3/s640/20180618_104221.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Tartare de Boeuf with all the garnishes.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">This was the first time I had seen beautifully packaged Steak Tartare complete with garnishes of raw egg yolk, capers, diced onion and tomato and some sort of sauce or dressing. It's flanked by packages of <i>poisson cru, </i>aka Tahitian fish salad (raw). They had just put them out and people were already jostling to grab one. They eat the Tartare with a baguette. </span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-36889791948302150762018-06-24T16:01:00.002-07:002018-06-24T16:10:52.817-07:00Missing Captain Coconut<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We wanted to do a nice, long post about SHINDIG Rob's visit, but unfortunately we've not had a decent internet connection so a shortie will have to suffice.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After a few weeks of working on CINNABAR we were all itching to take a break from the dreaded boat work. The weather was pretty much agreeable for a sail to Huahine, </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">one of our favorite islands in the Societies. We got out of the anchorage a bit too late for the sail to Huahine so we motored over to Tahaa (another island that </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">shares the same lagoon as Raiatea) and anchored just inside the pass, ready for a morning departure. It was Captain Coconut's birthday so on the way over I baked up a </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">batch of chocolate cupcakes for the celebration later that night.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXc2KhGFX11BcLIlyMFrNTTfgeCHrfNInKQL-qWnOvtPOEslwkLaFaU79pE1M2iF9ou3UgBGcHFxr6XAHfU9Ow36gCfjmz4s3eHpcCSacCq_9bZdMSH_TmQyPDtEc2slaV0a3auDnDXkYO/s1600/IMG_0672+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXc2KhGFX11BcLIlyMFrNTTfgeCHrfNInKQL-qWnOvtPOEslwkLaFaU79pE1M2iF9ou3UgBGcHFxr6XAHfU9Ow36gCfjmz4s3eHpcCSacCq_9bZdMSH_TmQyPDtEc2slaV0a3auDnDXkYO/s640/IMG_0672+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shhh...he had two. Don't tell Nancy.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was an upwind sail to Huahine but the winds and seas were pleasant, Rob drove the whole way, the motor was off for most of the trip, and Rob did an outstanding job of </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">dodging the squalls on the way. Six hours after leaving Raiatea we anchored near the town of Fare in Huahine, ready for a festive Friday night at the Huahine Yacht </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Club (a bar and restaurant, not really a YC).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuEncy34R1qwMaV9V1AI0oP8lsKn95y8hjWVPLRSOmmgf65lmlYhgpL9q516bBQD6HbDc1kLeFibOFPgiXhNf8xftQR47DY98pXhFRzRrOftDt3lckRQig-OfYzlTKGmwcgz3-by2MMIA/s1600/IMG_0674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuEncy34R1qwMaV9V1AI0oP8lsKn95y8hjWVPLRSOmmgf65lmlYhgpL9q516bBQD6HbDc1kLeFibOFPgiXhNf8xftQR47DY98pXhFRzRrOftDt3lckRQig-OfYzlTKGmwcgz3-by2MMIA/s640/IMG_0674.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before Rob managed to convince Tom to turn over the wheel.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">That night after Tom and Rob had gone to bed, I heard some frantic whistling outside and popped my head out to see an out-of-control traditional sailing canoe heading </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">toward CINNABAR ready to spear us with the hull and two amas. The guys on board were shouting "Throw us a rope!". I yelled, "Don't hit the boat!" and called for Tom and </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Rob to come up. The canoe sailed by, sails flapping loudly, and luckily they missed the boat. Tom and Rob dropped the dinghy in the </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">water and managed to help the canoe get to shore. Disaster averted. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next day (Saturday) we weighed anchor and headed down to Avea Bay at the south end of the island, hopefully so the guys could find some winds for kiting. Which </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">they did. More about that later from Tom. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A restaurant in the bay, Chez Tara, is known for its traditional pit-cooked Polynesian Sunday Brunch buffet. The patrons were a combination of tourists and locals and every table </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">was taken. It turned out to be a terrific meal, lots of succulent meats, poisson cru (Polynesian ceviche), and other traditional dishes. One plateful of food was more </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">than enough for me but I saw a couple of local guys go back FOUR TIMES. And then they served up a dessert buffet! Wow, what a meal.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtI6fpMdc9IX1ETRlrMGe1TXtA6sRiWo0BXnXv4-8R2RBd_sNZQsdaEeaXxRSD173jvt07tFY0Vd-50_439ZsTyem_a-963wVhQJ5IhW0wobTjTZWNTlw-zGX3646GVdPm0S8QhcpgtVDu/s1600/IMG_9872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtI6fpMdc9IX1ETRlrMGe1TXtA6sRiWo0BXnXv4-8R2RBd_sNZQsdaEeaXxRSD173jvt07tFY0Vd-50_439ZsTyem_a-963wVhQJ5IhW0wobTjTZWNTlw-zGX3646GVdPm0S8QhcpgtVDu/s640/IMG_9872.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling the various meats and veg out of the fire pit.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicK1J2AkfzU14oxvOUI0CGzT3L3EzY6Wus0jLf-T-snuyM7LSkUFoiBEzY1LUmtbyHy8PNxwnmBZrj5546sXhvdMOaa4UWZB5TNv4HKNjPsGoT-MWVA-Fmt3iKTUagI725A_QJwV7zYUn8/s1600/IMG_9881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicK1J2AkfzU14oxvOUI0CGzT3L3EzY6Wus0jLf-T-snuyM7LSkUFoiBEzY1LUmtbyHy8PNxwnmBZrj5546sXhvdMOaa4UWZB5TNv4HKNjPsGoT-MWVA-Fmt3iKTUagI725A_QJwV7zYUn8/s640/IMG_9881.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly hosts dish up to grub.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBEECEpZvabCUmx41EXAKxfg1LdwKwP4ejefyBTn1ubQY7-rdgvVxjqHn_sw5ZiDqRnoI_ZErGT8MX-fOqoJnaID1FgZKFtqWyzbfmv_qhEh8Sbqs80e1MNsBqwEUsMmncIJawxzWsF5v/s1600/IMG_9878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBEECEpZvabCUmx41EXAKxfg1LdwKwP4ejefyBTn1ubQY7-rdgvVxjqHn_sw5ZiDqRnoI_ZErGT8MX-fOqoJnaID1FgZKFtqWyzbfmv_qhEh8Sbqs80e1MNsBqwEUsMmncIJawxzWsF5v/s640/IMG_9878.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Luckily the winds were willing to accommodate a couple of kiters. Tom and Rob got in a day or two of kiting. We also dinghied way out onto the reef for some </span><span style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">snorkeling.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alas, Rob was on a schedule and we had to return to Raiatea so he could fly home. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJJH5yZ5UOFNesVyQbXz4pocn4kt0mcKj9e6yoPDgTRcR-ET396oRwOdqb7A3_xfdDHpRXXVIsmgPmgWDIbqED_pt3llF9yJB_5GsGFqLt83zoEL1nMc0psPYiKiGCX1z_RotNxxWlJdh/s1600/IMG_9885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJJH5yZ5UOFNesVyQbXz4pocn4kt0mcKj9e6yoPDgTRcR-ET396oRwOdqb7A3_xfdDHpRXXVIsmgPmgWDIbqED_pt3llF9yJB_5GsGFqLt83zoEL1nMc0psPYiKiGCX1z_RotNxxWlJdh/s640/IMG_9885.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Raiatea you can dinghy straight up to the airport, which has its own dinghy dock. So cool!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Captain Coconut, you were a wonderful guest and you are welcome on CINNABAR any time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-27151998537117335262018-06-01T13:54:00.002-07:002018-06-01T13:54:31.171-07:00Raiatea Rising<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We are anchored in NW Raiatea catching up on boat projects. The weather has been settled and calm (unusual in the tropics), and for the last few days we've enjoyed some beautiful sunsets next to Bora Bora-in-the-distance (about 23 miles west of us). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">With the recent full moon we have also enjoyed some unusually lovely moon-rises as well...</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubMJbiFF9J4Uu5nuAozLKDKHlIPWnskCoZNT9dnJqmtsdmtSdxRrNAbCwvA4uVNcEP0GkI4YKmFqzePzWz-aIVSpF4Gr1MCc2e2fuD4CW-OX0swFVL8D9QAZlqml7SB1zzRDOlXk_Zimi/s1600/20180528_175930+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="972" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubMJbiFF9J4Uu5nuAozLKDKHlIPWnskCoZNT9dnJqmtsdmtSdxRrNAbCwvA4uVNcEP0GkI4YKmFqzePzWz-aIVSpF4Gr1MCc2e2fuD4CW-OX0swFVL8D9QAZlqml7SB1zzRDOlXk_Zimi/s640/20180528_175930+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Our Memorial Day full moon rising over Raiatea.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Our internet in this location is terribly slow, so more later on SHINDIG Rob's visit aboard Cinnabar. We had a fabulous time including a sail over to Huahine for a few days. Coming up: Sailing, Traditional Island Feast, Kiting!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-23183183123188466942018-05-14T15:33:00.001-07:002018-05-14T15:33:54.834-07:00Welcome Aboard!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Cinnabar is in the water! After 2.5 weeks of hot, sweaty, dirty labor we (Tom, Sylvia and Rob) are now floating in an anchorage near the boatyard. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">While working on the boat we were fortunate enough to stay in a nearby bungalow where we would wait out the morning showers before heading to the boatyard.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">No wonder the garden is so green.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">On the day that we splashed Cinnabar we moved out of the bungalow and onto the boat.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It's always a little nerve-wracking to lift the boat over the water and gently put her in, but it all went off without a hitch.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">With Rob (SHINDIG) on board for a couple of weeks I've noticed one or two <b>changes</b> on the boat. When I opened the coffee/tea cupboard the first morning this is what I saw.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">No, Rob does not have a shot of Don Julio with his morning coffee, but he does like to keep it handy.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Did I say <b>changes</b>? I meant to say improvements. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Welcome aboard Rob!</span></div>
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Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-65487230702111410022018-05-10T00:21:00.000-07:002018-05-10T01:47:18.330-07:00What We Did On Our Southern Hemisphere Summer Vacation<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's been a while, so if you've got the time to catch up get comfy, grab a cold one and read on...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>NOVEMBER:</b> We put CINNABAR away in the Raiatea Carenage for the second year in a row.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR next to her pal SHINDIG. (Left, blue bottom and red outboard, on which we sailed across the Pacific in 2017. No not that little boat sitting on cans!)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We flew home to the USA for a quick visit with family and friends and to enjoy the Thanksgiving holiday.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Summer in the Southern Hemisphere is winter in the Northern; we were too used to tropical temps and it was way too cold for us in CA, so...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>DECEMBER:</b> We drove down to Baja, MX and stopped in Bahia Concepcion along the way to enjoy Christmas with the McGuire/Matatyaou/Hudnut families. It was a fun combination of Christian and Jewish holiday with matzoh ball soup, roast turkey, traditional sides, and homemade Challah bread. So good!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On Boxing Day (Dec 26) we drove to La Paz to move into our spiffy apartment (nicknamed Funkytown) and reconnect with our ex-dock neighbors Manny and Lola.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With bay area pals Lou and Mary (visiting La Paz), and neighbors Lola and Manny</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom drove to Scorpion Bay to meet up with the McGuire group for a surfing adventure while I stayed in La Paz to hang out with friends.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNuUXEwviBCQasdx7Km_du9x1J4C126H59aFfOiUIciHmU5wJ7qhTisgBiOdPYOKnZuWcGsFuf0iYtHsSIzKXsQhDhfP0sewHuEwbJM40JzPE6yHl0lUipvm_YENu6DihmA-5TN5Bb2nE/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNuUXEwviBCQasdx7Km_du9x1J4C126H59aFfOiUIciHmU5wJ7qhTisgBiOdPYOKnZuWcGsFuf0iYtHsSIzKXsQhDhfP0sewHuEwbJM40JzPE6yHl0lUipvm_YENu6DihmA-5TN5Bb2nE/s640/IMG_0021.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kelston and Tom hangin' loose in Scorpion Bay.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipRXIAkbkEncbs3eK1zwmDBgAJHC0LLhhxc8A9wcnGcZ0S54NfYpUdV4IuOGGKujAwafoEDGYBoq0X_c4W8jncSkt12t05AVZVeIn57mQzkS_7mFhQmWDEFKu2SwFH_Zgvb3gCBNa7BkLg/s1600/IMG_0067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipRXIAkbkEncbs3eK1zwmDBgAJHC0LLhhxc8A9wcnGcZ0S54NfYpUdV4IuOGGKujAwafoEDGYBoq0X_c4W8jncSkt12t05AVZVeIn57mQzkS_7mFhQmWDEFKu2SwFH_Zgvb3gCBNa7BkLg/s640/IMG_0067.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The nice, long rides were enjoyed by all including Asaf and his kids, a first for them in Baja.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>JANUARY: </b></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We went to Cabo for a week to enjoy a life of luxury with our good friends the Beltons. Huge thanks to </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Heather, Wynn, Ava and Kellen</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> for the deluxe accommodations. </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0Edb9Tk1MyUCGeq-u71b9yLWXpPWyno8Sgvfvh1akKYjkFWSSyRF4inRKLrPAS3qKPovKhzX_vM88VhycRUhw-SDccgnCf2CNlXR3pjVoD0y_w4kM8t3nmeiWPPrlU31ZzUyNRyYOhiq/s1600/IMG_0080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0Edb9Tk1MyUCGeq-u71b9yLWXpPWyno8Sgvfvh1akKYjkFWSSyRF4inRKLrPAS3qKPovKhzX_vM88VhycRUhw-SDccgnCf2CNlXR3pjVoD0y_w4kM8t3nmeiWPPrlU31ZzUyNRyYOhiq/s640/IMG_0080.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Toe-side view of our complex, not too shabby!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-PnKy_eNLIknN_UJxsn_SbFVyj7Kw4slSpZRMYOSJ046_IBhniTqB1_h4iztCq5LwCvKYbhyphenhyphenFODFxjJEzGj7I2sysUOH_lbTizHu_buWvsd_2XtBBKBjmAVr5mLM-xhrVfGISv54CEqT/s1600/GOPR3570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-PnKy_eNLIknN_UJxsn_SbFVyj7Kw4slSpZRMYOSJ046_IBhniTqB1_h4iztCq5LwCvKYbhyphenhyphenFODFxjJEzGj7I2sysUOH_lbTizHu_buWvsd_2XtBBKBjmAVr5mLM-xhrVfGISv54CEqT/s640/GOPR3570.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom takes Kellen and Ava for a kayak, our complex in the background.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_5cVBA2px4w1KpQ4nCzVJdYjRtGBDnwvR1VhtBrPQusR6DMeViGTbtHGUI2chKqGlX5le6_pMxX2npfHnO06wh6PFWVzBgoI_kRuHWRG1x5alBvZlgmA0W0KpA5r7CxKfd_32KcG4njJ/s1600/IMG_0082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1452" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_5cVBA2px4w1KpQ4nCzVJdYjRtGBDnwvR1VhtBrPQusR6DMeViGTbtHGUI2chKqGlX5le6_pMxX2npfHnO06wh6PFWVzBgoI_kRuHWRG1x5alBvZlgmA0W0KpA5r7CxKfd_32KcG4njJ/s640/IMG_0082.JPG" width="579" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hanging out with Long John Silver in Cabo, aaaargh!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We decided one week was not enough so they made plans to visit us in La Paz during the kids' spring break in February.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>LA VENTANA:</b> Tom started his kiting vacation, yay!! And did a lot of downwinders with his friends from Oregon Nigel and Brenda, and their kids Fred and Joules.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5AshPjyUf-S0cdV508OaBDq2z2Jd8TgVvXy1PJ4zkD6bquPxZlrjWWiQJCErntJKDGu3qoUPoAo0s_rC4sAHomdI03fG5RKWpX_URVMlpN10agVVqWTDB0wOtTig6pQR5Dk-PQLBfn8G9/s1600/CropperCapture%255B84%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="920" height="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5AshPjyUf-S0cdV508OaBDq2z2Jd8TgVvXy1PJ4zkD6bquPxZlrjWWiQJCErntJKDGu3qoUPoAo0s_rC4sAHomdI03fG5RKWpX_URVMlpN10agVVqWTDB0wOtTig6pQR5Dk-PQLBfn8G9/s640/CropperCapture%255B84%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">View from Tom's GoPro with friend Nigel in the distance.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">An extra activity: Tom reconnected with a couple of cyclists he'd met when he was surfing in Scorpion Bay and one day they rode from La Paz to La Ventana.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71No_6J_XSumEG4wADORs2Tj5_6v5aDkxL7ZwFluCc2iM-LOYqYIMCRWbU01F4MieMj3jqn9lvFcxgZDHpCU4PKhmTHGOpRLdvb-IpgXZS9DE5QEvP9-jWQmTqpWpo-y8NXChRlq2boQn/s1600/IMG_0087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71No_6J_XSumEG4wADORs2Tj5_6v5aDkxL7ZwFluCc2iM-LOYqYIMCRWbU01F4MieMj3jqn9lvFcxgZDHpCU4PKhmTHGOpRLdvb-IpgXZS9DE5QEvP9-jWQmTqpWpo-y8NXChRlq2boQn/s640/IMG_0087.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Michelle and Mike, from NY state, were off-road cycling from San Diego to Cabo.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>SHINDIG</b>: Rob and Nancy came to La Ventana for six weeks and had a slew of friends parade down for mini-vacations. We spent a few days with them in La Ventana, and after Tom, Rob, Nancy and their friends (Josh and Ralph) went kiting for the day, Josh gave everyone salsa lessons. It was a shindig!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgEECnTwWphdzMV3XoSECrq-ruahqok3Cm8MANnC3LRMsx3iWHEMHWrkAXFfU6ePK1EGbs4cO6pmnC8BDZZOiss7zqUySxMshFmAUfktbv57t7SnkfXJNkCc2mCYPGm9OkEn_IeFWRdSD/s1600/CropperCapture%255B92%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="989" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgEECnTwWphdzMV3XoSECrq-ruahqok3Cm8MANnC3LRMsx3iWHEMHWrkAXFfU6ePK1EGbs4cO6pmnC8BDZZOiss7zqUySxMshFmAUfktbv57t7SnkfXJNkCc2mCYPGm9OkEn_IeFWRdSD/s640/CropperCapture%255B92%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">L to R Joules and Fred, Brenda with teacher Josh, Nancy (SHINDIG) and Ralph. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">FEBRUARY: Girlfriends Dina and Claire came to visit for a long weekend. They timed it perfectly with Carnaval where we overdid the Margaritas and then recovered at beautiful Tecolote beach.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSSEVAjvNqwtTcLxIwB3RcF-RdBlLFazi1LzFmrh5wL6X5TV5NR4S1Rh1_1nYes_DxtNwolhe5C0UkVTIHYvYPz8VCinVKg7k8705vulJmOYG_cGKrlaUMsuiB76zD1lVxaQLD2yG0I-E/s1600/IMG_0111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSSEVAjvNqwtTcLxIwB3RcF-RdBlLFazi1LzFmrh5wL6X5TV5NR4S1Rh1_1nYes_DxtNwolhe5C0UkVTIHYvYPz8VCinVKg7k8705vulJmOYG_cGKrlaUMsuiB76zD1lVxaQLD2yG0I-E/s640/IMG_0111.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A perfect day in Tecolote with Sylvia, Claire and Dina.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Beltons returned to Baja and we had a wonderful week of beaches, shell-collecting and touring around La Paz. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBbSTN7GWKZOGO9wT0A9jV6I_s7Fv9_wL85VDL_RSscV5kVYxhJ8O_kW0CktFQKLNL9iNKkEtN77lxKOulljft_agGiekahN_ck6CX0naSk8YtrgP8Qvv2npR0OffLcQ3tKHXEqGmYYaN/s1600/IMG_0127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBbSTN7GWKZOGO9wT0A9jV6I_s7Fv9_wL85VDL_RSscV5kVYxhJ8O_kW0CktFQKLNL9iNKkEtN77lxKOulljft_agGiekahN_ck6CX0naSk8YtrgP8Qvv2npR0OffLcQ3tKHXEqGmYYaN/s640/IMG_0127.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZZI2qT3iX7Li1YNO0HzvRl-dHseNo3Ia1g5PP7FEzzNyJhJfn18HgHhIqm7MFtmJ4g7Cadv-lQexBeJvc2z5kFn8uGj479KuDL5YvECrBc2MmYwMWYLUjQvfB4nYS3WRIb8gEsp_eq3g/s1600/IMG_0136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZZI2qT3iX7Li1YNO0HzvRl-dHseNo3Ia1g5PP7FEzzNyJhJfn18HgHhIqm7MFtmJ4g7Cadv-lQexBeJvc2z5kFn8uGj479KuDL5YvECrBc2MmYwMWYLUjQvfB4nYS3WRIb8gEsp_eq3g/s640/IMG_0136.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kellen and Wynn enjoying a game of chess.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y7iVZOdnsqapdLpc2B6sToYCYXR5hVA0jpuUdrh_HnOzBLc3CjLnJmw0Jfg11KAPh89gEgYGmqJmwB1IfhpB2xIrj4ii2cA7cCcv4JCTf14UyE5QeXMFXZOqsKTgypW0rRxRgpZpTUUM/s1600/IMG_0133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y7iVZOdnsqapdLpc2B6sToYCYXR5hVA0jpuUdrh_HnOzBLc3CjLnJmw0Jfg11KAPh89gEgYGmqJmwB1IfhpB2xIrj4ii2cA7cCcv4JCTf14UyE5QeXMFXZOqsKTgypW0rRxRgpZpTUUM/s640/IMG_0133.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ava gets into the local art.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Many more visits to La Ventana.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Post-kiting hanging out with friends at Brenda and Nigel's place. Rob (SHINDIG), Brenda, Ralph, Nigel, Sue (visiting Rob and Nancy).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>MARCH:</b> Our friends Sally and Stan invited us to transit the Panama Canal with them and their friend Kerry aboard their Cal 40 ILLUSION. We couldn't resist so we made arrangements to travel from La Paz to Panama City. Not knowing much about Panama we were surprised to discover that Panama City is a huge metropolis! </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sally, Sylvia and Tom enjoying Panama City</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In order to transit the narrow isthmus in Panama one must begin at sea level, transit through the first sets of locks up to Gatun Lake which is 85 ft (26M) above sea level, and then through the last set of locks back down to sea level. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We spent a couple of days preparing Illusion... </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kerry and Stan sort through the humongous dock lines that were provided for the journey.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...and then pre-sunrise one morning left the dock and motored to the mouth of the river to wait for our guides. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Advisor and his assistant were brought out to ILLUSION on a tender.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We spent the entire day transiting the locks. Sailboats get to squeeze in with big container or cruise ships.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Illusion motors into place behind a container ship. Sally and Panama ex-pat Dave have sent their lines to the professiosnal line handlers.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Panama Canal professionals take our lines and walk us through the locks.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">At one point we had to tie up next to a tugboat. This is why we were provided gigantic fenders.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The lock has filled and the gates open to let us exit at a higher altitude.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It was an exciting and fascinating experience to be in the Pacific Ocean in the a.m. and then the Atlantic Ocean that night. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We approach the Atlantic Ocean at sunset.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Once we got Illusion comfortably settled at Shelter Bay Marina we spent the next few days touring the area...</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia, Kerry, Sally and Stan enjoy the Shelter Bay Marina facilities.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...and traveling back to Panama City visiting museums along the way and learning all about the engineering marvel that is the Panama Canal. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Land tour on the way back to Panama City to catch our flight home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /><b>Fun Fascinating Panama Canal Facts:</b><br /> This is truly a wonder of modern (industrial age) engineering. Every curious person should find the chance to do the transit (and visit the excellent related museums).<br /><br />· The French tried and failed to build the canal in the 1880s (squandered about $350 M).<br /><br />· The USA built the canal from 1904 to 1914 and succeeded mostly via mosquito eradication (malaria and yellow fever control), bigger and more efficient machinery and building processes, and less mismanagement thanks to Teddy Roosevelt and a military chief engineer's efforts. <br /><br />· About 92 countries contributed workers to the canal building effort, but most came from the West Indies in the Caribbean.<br /><br />· About 14,000 ships per year transit the canal (about a 1 million total since opening).<br /><br />· The USA operated the canal until 1999 when the Panamanians took over control. The US operated the canal as break-even/not for profit. The Panamanians make about $5B per year.<br /><br />· Transit fees cost up to $1,000,000 USD for one ship, or about $1,500 for a small sailboat. The cheapest fee ($0.36 (cents) was for a guy who SWAM the canal in 1928. The average fee is about $54,000 per ship.<br /><br />· The Panamanians built a 3rd lane on the outer 2 locks from 2006 to 2016 to handle extra-large ships.<br /><br />· The canal runs mostly In the North-South direction; cutting across the mostly East-West Panamanian Isthmus. The canal waterway is about 48 nm long.<br /><br />· About 36,000 people total died building the canal (French and US efforts)</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br class="gmail-Apple-interchange-newline" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>APRIL: </b>Sadly, it was time to wrap up our vacation in La Paz and prepare to head home. All in all Tom was able to get 34 days of kiting under his belt. We said our last goodbyes...</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1abpxGR3flg5AmqT7YjiWUJkXY5FJRupeAGL1aRfbBhnL5JivOjcFCHtWjcOGoijzZwXKf1xg6rfVotHf09b-smlfwXYVCQNAhbXNjqGzQ0LDTf3JKSLP5wEcYCbDm8pHE7jF6bnMwV0K/s1600/IMG_0379.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1abpxGR3flg5AmqT7YjiWUJkXY5FJRupeAGL1aRfbBhnL5JivOjcFCHtWjcOGoijzZwXKf1xg6rfVotHf09b-smlfwXYVCQNAhbXNjqGzQ0LDTf3JKSLP5wEcYCbDm8pHE7jF6bnMwV0K/s400/IMG_0379.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Final La Paz sunset with neighbors and good friends.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...and rendezvoused with our La Ventana friend Nigel and his three dogs to caravan back to the border. We spent several outstanding nights camping at beaches on the Pacific and Sea of Cortez sides of Baja, lollylagging as much as possible to delay our entrance into the USA.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nigel and Tom review the route. We did a lot of off-roading and exploring.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0IpmZdsFa4nrb7FjI_QvoaRXbK3JbHCIzRT9-TNCUahrPJl-pnrCzxeU1YCmZFph8oQ5L509FZIVYKNkgLkFfvjGGOfBDWzOA7jvFE3icgGoBh3GwevEcVjR_6AaSU_XPlD3U7EwM4G8/s1600/CropperCapture%255B88%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="918" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0IpmZdsFa4nrb7FjI_QvoaRXbK3JbHCIzRT9-TNCUahrPJl-pnrCzxeU1YCmZFph8oQ5L509FZIVYKNkgLkFfvjGGOfBDWzOA7jvFE3icgGoBh3GwevEcVjR_6AaSU_XPlD3U7EwM4G8/s640/CropperCapture%255B88%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We stopped in a remote fishing village on the Pacific side and purchased a filleted halibut for $10.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W3-SvPq2C7c3DckyGfZnjSCCzRMiDzJkBIP1mIWQG8PKodk5TwCxAqow-dSAcAqHOAZnP0piz_3pax9vRkTrFdTrkp3gGLyxaafYpj-C4yCa4A5oxGUa3esgfEQiHh5dACuIkZr83pLr/s1600/CropperCapture%255B90%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="1199" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W3-SvPq2C7c3DckyGfZnjSCCzRMiDzJkBIP1mIWQG8PKodk5TwCxAqow-dSAcAqHOAZnP0piz_3pax9vRkTrFdTrkp3gGLyxaafYpj-C4yCa4A5oxGUa3esgfEQiHh5dACuIkZr83pLr/s640/CropperCapture%255B90%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We crossed the Baja and in Gonzaga Bay in the Sea of Cortez Tom and Nigel dug a bucket full of clams.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcdvNhFxi20iy1N80_9nx7vBEeJffdRG-YioGy8QY4y7umBHqoL0XOcxN6kWGvyaaS2U5kGN7Ocai0hBZ3Bb4IRzDopohDMVQggP43iNB9t_zFQsD8_d8NevMoZYpkAv5a7QzH5pmIKft/s1600/IMG_0431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcdvNhFxi20iy1N80_9nx7vBEeJffdRG-YioGy8QY4y7umBHqoL0XOcxN6kWGvyaaS2U5kGN7Ocai0hBZ3Bb4IRzDopohDMVQggP43iNB9t_zFQsD8_d8NevMoZYpkAv5a7QzH5pmIKft/s640/IMG_0431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Happily cooking the fresh clams which were outstanding.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nhkCzTHhXB-DlxLUOQvvsiOqDhL_AO1cjXdaRfpsK6_cQlTZdFy4XSoD0TisgpB4gLA1LNxUs6evxUuWUByN61919V2MlefZw7w4xQN9oUQlwoUvnBPE2CCm_zpNjEVWO2Ja4MxwPTqV/s1600/20180411_075457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nhkCzTHhXB-DlxLUOQvvsiOqDhL_AO1cjXdaRfpsK6_cQlTZdFy4XSoD0TisgpB4gLA1LNxUs6evxUuWUByN61919V2MlefZw7w4xQN9oUQlwoUvnBPE2CCm_zpNjEVWO2Ja4MxwPTqV/s640/20180411_075457.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nigel, Tom and the dogs enjoy coffee and kibble.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We crossed the border and bid farewell to Nigel who planned to drive north many more hours than we did. Our plans to camp near Joshua Tree were thwarted by a huge wind event and dust storm. We wisely decided to motel it for the night and the next day we were pummeled by wind and dust as we drove north.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1SHDNJ_VJMnTpJQWM68FnAowsPlKCPpMNIpFw1t6WvrBw38MqklCW7Ric9_iwcJnYDqoEKFHrRi2Czr5Dv5Ko7Jo7GbgFxBnh6TJEFy_6wBYGoHGvQBmDtsOVAIx0J71D_iPuJivG-do/s1600/IMG_0465+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1SHDNJ_VJMnTpJQWM68FnAowsPlKCPpMNIpFw1t6WvrBw38MqklCW7Ric9_iwcJnYDqoEKFHrRi2Czr5Dv5Ko7Jo7GbgFxBnh6TJEFy_6wBYGoHGvQBmDtsOVAIx0J71D_iPuJivG-do/s640/IMG_0465+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sylvia and Teddy (Ava forgot her Teddy!) getting blown in 50 mph winds.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_ns9xuL-DdfjWueq9jKCFBAWM-PO3GW2uz_X4PtgJQVj3_JM99gutvXpNjtBTXHKoLK_aOFQwF6FPkrBBAWhxHQQ-qsqCjp0dzaJ3jQgTP6rMgNDuoUA4gR5JhLaEtISffXhUzsUDa8H/s1600/IMG_20180412_080345_445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_ns9xuL-DdfjWueq9jKCFBAWM-PO3GW2uz_X4PtgJQVj3_JM99gutvXpNjtBTXHKoLK_aOFQwF6FPkrBBAWhxHQQ-qsqCjp0dzaJ3jQgTP6rMgNDuoUA4gR5JhLaEtISffXhUzsUDa8H/s640/IMG_20180412_080345_445.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Emerging from the dust storm that enveloped the Tundra. We had to drive very slowly.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had one week in the SF Bay Area to take care of business. We put the Tundra away and somehow managed to fit all of our luggage which was the carry-ons, three 49.9# bags and one 7' long batten wrapped in Sunbrella disguised as a fishing pole, into our Uber and made it to the airport EARLY for a change. All the luggage was accepted with no extra charge. We only had to change planes 2 more times and we wondered if all our luggage would actually show up at our destination.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>April 23: </b>After changing planes at LAX and a red-eye to Tahiti we arrived in Papeete. And so did all of our luggage! We re-checked all luggage to Raiatea and only had to pay $19 for our excess luggage. We were told our "fishing pole" was too long but in typical French Poly fashion they shrugged and took it anyway. It all arrived in Raiatea and miraculously fit easily into our rented Fiat Panda.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">And that is where we are now, back in the Carenage (boatyard) working hard to get Cinnabar back into the water. Our friend Rob from SHINDIG is here to check on his on boat and then join us on a mini-vacation. He's been a godsend.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We're working on the problems we knew about and, as usual, the "new" problems that surprised us upon our arrival. But at least Cinnabar was dry and non-mildewy on the inside, an improvement over last year. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">More later, but in the meanwhile here is a bonus question. A cold one of your choice to whoever can correctly identify this boat project...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGSWGhUGCVB9SPGVP4WMhi_Agzhyphenhyphenl2T4rgQ98MVf24jsxoiJWQqMnoRiMOHhIIfPGEj0iG7i8EA2IlOX0uuE5dflbHy-qyRjDuAZR5X9qdz3J5MLGsk4-UYYVSR-4056lhNb7xtCn1rzc/s1600/IMG_9851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJGSWGhUGCVB9SPGVP4WMhi_Agzhyphenhyphenl2T4rgQ98MVf24jsxoiJWQqMnoRiMOHhIIfPGEj0iG7i8EA2IlOX0uuE5dflbHy-qyRjDuAZR5X9qdz3J5MLGsk4-UYYVSR-4056lhNb7xtCn1rzc/s640/IMG_9851.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<br />Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180395777568914471.post-73758418022267694882017-12-31T08:33:00.000-08:002017-12-31T08:45:37.522-08:00Kitty and Joe Visit CINNABAR<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Four Islands in Eighteen Days - Tahiti to Moorea to Huahine to Bora Bora</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our friends Kitty and Joe came to visit us in September/October and we made some epic memories during their visit. Here are some of the highlights:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">They started off with a few days in Tahiti enjoying a cool bungalow with views of the sunset and whales off their reef. We did an excellent island tour and drove all the way around the island. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbq5AVkk1UiRMEsDvjKH_NVMsNUsRyuSPn0_NUxa5dwTDOq3vrmIxMbAcokFIMulzUlCN0WpqUuDg1q7oOwMhCELfAHmP43qW-8TLAH2bc67TAQ4TdOudqv19XDR7JuSverPjaliJ5q3rJ/s1600/IMG_9586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbq5AVkk1UiRMEsDvjKH_NVMsNUsRyuSPn0_NUxa5dwTDOq3vrmIxMbAcokFIMulzUlCN0WpqUuDg1q7oOwMhCELfAHmP43qW-8TLAH2bc67TAQ4TdOudqv19XDR7JuSverPjaliJ5q3rJ/s400/IMG_9586.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We hiked up to the Cascades de Faarumai...</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_HmDtHM3H2RLyU9lHKYtAupA4VcKs5Kt5AU2uwHhfnCqKih12ljUOz009pycGj6LWuzSEUzrQfaQbBschelqOXSfkFOWweQmD2HLjyZgP_r4-958t6Fo_sGddkIsCYDPx0Mw9eQYsN0J/s1600/IMG_9589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1600" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_HmDtHM3H2RLyU9lHKYtAupA4VcKs5Kt5AU2uwHhfnCqKih12ljUOz009pycGj6LWuzSEUzrQfaQbBschelqOXSfkFOWweQmD2HLjyZgP_r4-958t6Fo_sGddkIsCYDPx0Mw9eQYsN0J/s400/IMG_9589.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">...and Kitty discovered soursops at the fruit smoothie stand.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After they checked out of their bungalow and they moved onto CINNABAR, where they deposited the requisite booze and boat parts that they'd brought for us, we readied the boat for the 4-hour sail to Mo'orea.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After sailing to Mo'orea from Tahiti, (and practically sailing right over a mother humpback whale and her calf!) we had a marathon snorkeling day and took Kitty and Joe to all our favorite snorkeling spots. Unfortunately, once back at the boat Kitty came down with a crazy case of hypothermia. We thought. She had a bad case of the shakes and shivers and we warmed her up with some blankets and hot tea. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjwt_0CXCxQDt3uzaQ4BJYk3q8EXLmqP40cDGZqwU2frgYXVmUDcNdJFJrqNEHwedOsl5ntgfxgwa3C7n1TTNjYogCLx0uhslKJdt3Gk0oO5LI5x3L78LKicn6vJIxe7NtflJ3y6d4ZZ7r/s1600/DSCF0145+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="985" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjwt_0CXCxQDt3uzaQ4BJYk3q8EXLmqP40cDGZqwU2frgYXVmUDcNdJFJrqNEHwedOsl5ntgfxgwa3C7n1TTNjYogCLx0uhslKJdt3Gk0oO5LI5x3L78LKicn6vJIxe7NtflJ3y6d4ZZ7r/s400/DSCF0145+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hot shower, hot towel, hot tea, warm blanket...in Polynesia??</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">But that night and the next day, which was our scheduled scooter island tour, she still was not herself. Hmmm...</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Quintessential OWB shot. Kitty's trying to rally.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kitty said she was up for the scooter adventure so off we scooted to tour the island, but try as she might, it was obvious she wasn't her usual peppy self, so when we drove by a pharmacy and I saw a doctor's name I recognized we pulled in for a (hopefully) quick check. In French Polynesia there is almost always a doctor's office associated with a pharmacy, in this case I had actually spoken with this particular doctor over the phone about another matter. Long story short, after examining her, Doctor Bouchet announced Kitty had SEPSIS (which is an internal bacterial infection) and he put her on antibiotics. Yikes! Thank goodness we stopped to see him. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(May I rant for a moment? We stopped at the doctor's office, no appointment, no "pre-approval", just as he was locking up for lunch. He went back into his office to examine kitty, check her vitals, etc. We were there about 30 minutes while he gave Kitty his full attention, made his diagnosis and wrote out the prescriptions. Cost of visit - equal to $36.00. Compare that to a doctor's visit in the USA. Just sayin'.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After the examination Kitty felt well enough to continue the scooter tour. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacNchjgXJSyP6X_c5_bS2jI_vUXxk2AJBrA5VXSsVYdqht35ZkPYaHdmpL_qRv8KEr-t3EseZDWK4LH4IX9LoTZeUS2awGWFyNmTQUqfUvjBZzRzYR7mQMUAQQD423sYgc60-miUOAZa4/s1600/DSCF0154+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacNchjgXJSyP6X_c5_bS2jI_vUXxk2AJBrA5VXSsVYdqht35ZkPYaHdmpL_qRv8KEr-t3EseZDWK4LH4IX9LoTZeUS2awGWFyNmTQUqfUvjBZzRzYR7mQMUAQQD423sYgc60-miUOAZa4/s400/DSCF0154+-+Copy+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">She felt well enough to schmooze with this young hunk and get him to carve out some fresh coconut meat for her. Way to go Kitty!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">However, it would be total rest for Kitty for the next few days. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately she would miss one of the epic highlights of their visit. The day after Kitty's diagnosis a group of cruisers in our anchorage had booked a tour on a highly recommended whale-watching boat. The local guide was very in tune with the behavior of the humpbacks and he put us close to a mother and her calf. Even though the day was overcast with big wind chop we all slid quietly into the water and then kicked like crazy, following our guide who led us to the whales. While Mom was taking a nap about 50 feet below us, Baby frolicked on the surface, practicing its turns and dives and trying to engage us in playing with it. It was, and I don't use the "A" words lightly, Amazing and Awesome. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWN84R6XdhUAsaLRtpUyWx-wKMCCffYoJ2X96FHpB4WGAt4KrjaV8fV8Pbiyij-lUdWvtouOLDVj9rExlymFVxP8sa1J4J0MzkgiQTaaWYw51CoPCRSs-BErESVEzw51lkA63svTTDUYBj/s1600/joeFranzettiBabyWhaleMoore2017.vlcsnap.cropped+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWN84R6XdhUAsaLRtpUyWx-wKMCCffYoJ2X96FHpB4WGAt4KrjaV8fV8Pbiyij-lUdWvtouOLDVj9rExlymFVxP8sa1J4J0MzkgiQTaaWYw51CoPCRSs-BErESVEzw51lkA63svTTDUYBj/s400/joeFranzettiBabyWhaleMoore2017.vlcsnap.cropped+%25281%2529.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joe filming a baby humpback in Mo'orea. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JKLul_y6W2yrxKjCwZR-McgCEecKf7Pa4ykUZm9C1tKauV4OZAMHi6sAjZJ3mM7rCbPz6YdgWbN5s3ZUZJ7WQlktc0YnvSq-bf9Z7knNus4RhTKE5EfVM_Id8BxQ3xs1De1fX_N0iXwo/s1600/DSCF0219+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JKLul_y6W2yrxKjCwZR-McgCEecKf7Pa4ykUZm9C1tKauV4OZAMHi6sAjZJ3mM7rCbPz6YdgWbN5s3ZUZJ7WQlktc0YnvSq-bf9Z7knNus4RhTKE5EfVM_Id8BxQ3xs1De1fX_N0iXwo/s400/DSCF0219+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="348" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A very big baby.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We were able to have several encounters with these whales and it was quite an afternoon. We got a lot of exercise with all that kicking in choppy water and I even blew out the purge valve of my snorkel. (Or maybe I just stepped on it.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next morning we could see some activity on the nearby beach. People were erecting tents, bringing in armfuls of palm fronds and flowers, and setting up booths for vendors and musicians. We decided to dinghy into the beach to investigate. Turns out it was International Tourist Day in French Polynesia and the Mo'orea tourist bureau was having its festival right on our beach! </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNnKhJNsiUQdOW3Nka80Opxd1b-KyDwXTbjoFF_qSTKppWV2emMgVOUPrIfuQTXxt6KvUWIcYRdCLXmPO3NG6XizHKvbBAjn0K0hJHCC1eJxVy6b535FNrRt3Nr31y7Mh_wD4zGKutcC9/s1600/IMG_9706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNnKhJNsiUQdOW3Nka80Opxd1b-KyDwXTbjoFF_qSTKppWV2emMgVOUPrIfuQTXxt6KvUWIcYRdCLXmPO3NG6XizHKvbBAjn0K0hJHCC1eJxVy6b535FNrRt3Nr31y7Mh_wD4zGKutcC9/s400/IMG_9706.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Music all day long</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We spent the day sampling food, smelling flowers, listening to a variety of local musical groups, watching studly young men in loincloths climb trees to pick coconuts and learning about the art of making jewelry and flower leis. We even got to paddle with the #1 Mo'orean paddling team. What a fun day!!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44riqCx3j4-_aGgfEzSHHqwkqsJQh09Nejg1qEKGiJHFV8oxsbLlzS6eAED_CcDjqoHWeE7pmu83Iw6kCrlaDHOEMh10hyphenhyphenUP2TE7XqlGCR9aQBM3duVSqe1HegbM1_TJJI7k9GFIeo2mp/s1600/DSCF0301+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="647" data-original-width="1024" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44riqCx3j4-_aGgfEzSHHqwkqsJQh09Nejg1qEKGiJHFV8oxsbLlzS6eAED_CcDjqoHWeE7pmu83Iw6kCrlaDHOEMh10hyphenhyphenUP2TE7XqlGCR9aQBM3duVSqe1HegbM1_TJJI7k9GFIeo2mp/s400/DSCF0301+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom gettin' it done.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had been looking at the weather and felt that an evening departure the following day would be the last chance to do an overnight sail to Huahine before some big winds and swells would hit the islands. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We left on schedule on a Thursday evening just after sunset in the peaceful lee of Mo'orea (i.e. the island protected us from the wind and waves), but as soon as CINNABAR poked her nose out of Mo'orea's lee we knew we were in for a night of wind and waves. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4kYYYTbhF0f8twrlNA8JQQYebqB1jM0Js0b2J_s24GGl6cbUUTMIL2oeSl4abdv0eF0PllBLhAOB7rq4AvDbt_4CPswVhFtlhdpiX58mwxcjzts_FuJSyd3gIFRvB8YoYMbhB7VcacCL/s1600/DSCF0315+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="980" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4kYYYTbhF0f8twrlNA8JQQYebqB1jM0Js0b2J_s24GGl6cbUUTMIL2oeSl4abdv0eF0PllBLhAOB7rq4AvDbt_4CPswVhFtlhdpiX58mwxcjzts_FuJSyd3gIFRvB8YoYMbhB7VcacCL/s400/DSCF0315+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Looks so calm. About 10 minutes later it was jackets, harnesses and tethers to keep us attached to the boat.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">CINNABAR was was going so fast, even with her mainsail reefed down (sail area reduced by lowering and securing), that we eventually completely stowed the mainsail away and sailed through the night using only the jib (smaller sail in front). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We took turns being on watch with two up at a time. Tom and Kitty were in charge for a couple of hours and then it was Joe and Sylvia, and so on throughout the night. It was a tiring but fun night when we decided to give the autopilot a break and hand-steer down the big swells. Joe and Kitty did a great job and as we sailed into the calm, familiar anchorage of Fare, Huahine the next morning we all agreed we'd gotten our money's worth with the previous night's E-Ticket ride. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ld7jGmKJuk5BrVGHTNsYjXY4OMEfbAds-50nmQ47RQm-obM2FqCiMY53-C5-Ui-Mxu2md6kqIUfeuPIV1iF2Fl9GolUvZjIikysjNMPxBdoew-HKicSnbq-pxTJ_t2unPjzMlYDnpG2g/s1600/DSCF0329+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ld7jGmKJuk5BrVGHTNsYjXY4OMEfbAds-50nmQ47RQm-obM2FqCiMY53-C5-Ui-Mxu2md6kqIUfeuPIV1iF2Fl9GolUvZjIikysjNMPxBdoew-HKicSnbq-pxTJ_t2unPjzMlYDnpG2g/s400/DSCF0329+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A rejuvenating lunch at the Mai Tai Lapita Village resort in Huahine</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Every island in The Societies has its own personality. While Tahiti and Mo'orea are heavily visited by tourists, Huahine has a more laid-back surf-town type vibe. It does have resorts, just not as many. We saw only one resort with OWBs (Over Water Bungalows) and it was tucked discretely into a private bay. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A land-tour company had been highly recommended to us. In fact it was the company that had conducted a tour for the Obamas (and group of Oprah, Springsteen, Tom Hanks, etc.) in April of 2017.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbKwW4kYLZkKYD9OYU0i0y45eJxuFJWwsmR8QN-AP027UX4ogrfJZA6d2-IJP287B_l7l4dGL2JVs8YGw35KAq1e0kUoOyxUhSdSSwrFp7ccrc4bGVmsUNtlpIRmOZ47ci_A6fLdgwwXx/s1600/IMG_9714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbKwW4kYLZkKYD9OYU0i0y45eJxuFJWwsmR8QN-AP027UX4ogrfJZA6d2-IJP287B_l7l4dGL2JVs8YGw35KAq1e0kUoOyxUhSdSSwrFp7ccrc4bGVmsUNtlpIRmOZ47ci_A6fLdgwwXx/s400/IMG_9714.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Manava feeds the sacred blue-eyed eels.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Manava, our guide, gave us an extensive and personal tour of the island, concentrating on Polynesian culture, history and anthropology. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin1-TJ08_aVNiwMDL1OZujQCnOz3xXVcd1O6BAzjV2ylrvNfnlCnUuSCUdS5yuLP_qWHtdQLiFnswqrHpfoFkggbu55tNnfcqqPDFWPJqFuK-EpbWKjEDmH89izi1Z-zERlUVgItzjM8Lf/s1600/IMG_9718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin1-TJ08_aVNiwMDL1OZujQCnOz3xXVcd1O6BAzjV2ylrvNfnlCnUuSCUdS5yuLP_qWHtdQLiFnswqrHpfoFkggbu55tNnfcqqPDFWPJqFuK-EpbWKjEDmH89izi1Z-zERlUVgItzjM8Lf/s400/IMG_9718.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Recently a large tree fell over and it exposed a previously unknown ancestral tomb. These skulls are well-hidden from hikers.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After spending a couple of days enjoying the town of Fare we sailed down to Avea Bay on the SW side of the island. We grabbed a mooring next to a resort and enjoyed their free wi-fi and facilities for a few days. Tom even had a chance to get some kiting in. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_iYAQbQ1GVFX013gaeurjuq-FvX5dmvmxGREc-W344kpJB8bWYXmKTSxH27qfQ9-6banNgzQyW9VotbdC6aooXHkslJYpojNXzGvxyOGXdE6VjigUNPz0dAgCa10nGvfjfsUQUPcQSsR/s1600/DSCF0486+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_iYAQbQ1GVFX013gaeurjuq-FvX5dmvmxGREc-W344kpJB8bWYXmKTSxH27qfQ9-6banNgzQyW9VotbdC6aooXHkslJYpojNXzGvxyOGXdE6VjigUNPz0dAgCa10nGvfjfsUQUPcQSsR/s400/DSCF0486+%2528Medium%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tom teaches Joe how to help him launch the kite.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kitty and Joe were keen to add Bora Bora to their repertoire. It is only a half-day sail from Huahine and CINNABAR managed to zip over there in only three hours! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Our friends Katie and Mike on PANGAEA, (last seen in Papeete) were waiting for us in the mooring field anchorage just off the famous Bloody Mary's Tiki Bar so it was fun to see them again and introduce them to Joe and Kitty.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfaVDEC8f_MruVmco4JbXzHoPVgXxCmMC-Nc7qm4b9kP9G-7u7tpfpwGdTsqnMwIW8Zy6QslvjTxH33zOZGwgtWwsxk74iFJpiC6ujPab6BuUy7LHgoFLTvS6iG7yFB4XhiYyaiwFmdDc/s1600/IMG_9676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfaVDEC8f_MruVmco4JbXzHoPVgXxCmMC-Nc7qm4b9kP9G-7u7tpfpwGdTsqnMwIW8Zy6QslvjTxH33zOZGwgtWwsxk74iFJpiC6ujPab6BuUy7LHgoFLTvS6iG7yFB4XhiYyaiwFmdDc/s400/IMG_9676.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">They brought us some croissants and baguettes even though it was pouring rain. (Mike, your baguette's a little limp. Just sayin'.)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">PANGAEA had been in Bora Bora for a couple of weeks and had discovered the best snorkeling and kiting spots so it was great to have our own personal adventure guides. Joe and Kitty only had a few days in Bora Bora so we packed as much into those days as we could.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">All trips must come to an end, and our friends finished theirs up by treating us to a fantastic farewell dinner at the famous Bloody Mary's Tiki Bar.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbt_2E1oRCGbnUkMrvz_0CdeDmvsjdPkrsTvH1FKAaJp8ucAfVAlgExf7hBdx5yh5HitIeNaFbcU5ahzGdh0zQm4pUTve-eR_hZtHOdZRxOTkJVzCIjz8cDDQ5ElbCoX-44UMY79NLOsCt/s1600/bloodyMary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbt_2E1oRCGbnUkMrvz_0CdeDmvsjdPkrsTvH1FKAaJp8ucAfVAlgExf7hBdx5yh5HitIeNaFbcU5ahzGdh0zQm4pUTve-eR_hZtHOdZRxOTkJVzCIjz8cDDQ5ElbCoX-44UMY79NLOsCt/s400/bloodyMary.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Throwin' the shaka at Bloody Mary's. Hey look, even the barender's toasting us.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The next day they caught a <b>taxi</b> into town where they would catch the free <b>ferry</b> to the Bora Bora airport for their short <b>flight</b> back to Papeete to catch their long <b>flight</b> back to Los Angeles.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">NOTE: Cruisers have a motto that we can tell visitors WHERE, or WHEN we will be, but rarely can we tell them both where AND when we will be somewhere, so be prepared to island hop one or both ways.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Looking back on this past cruising season we can honestly say we were very blessed with all our visitors. They were incredible guests who actively participated in making our own fun. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joe and Kitty, <a href="http://svcinnabar.blogspot.mx/2017/09/mike-and-linda-visit-cinnabar.html" target="_blank">Mike and Linda</a>, <i>Merci Beaucoup</i> for helping to make 2017 a memorable cruising season for CINNABAR.</span>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Cap'n Sylvia Sharkbaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04707061580366028894noreply@blogger.com0